What is this fitting/nipple?

[Shifting_Gears]

Previous owner did oil tank delete. I saw this nipple down by the bottom of the carb assembly is uncapped. I’m assuming this should be capped, but what is it?

The rotary valve lines (big oil lines) are looped to both sides of the case. The oil tank has been deleted.



Oil line looped. I want to put a tee fitting here so I can keep this line full.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Sorry - accidentally posted this in the performance section as well.

Previous owner did oil tank delete. I saw this nipple down by the bottom of the carb assembly is uncapped. I’m assuming this should be capped, but what is it?

The rotary valve lines (big oil lines) are looped to both sides of the case. The oil tank has been deleted.

I want to put a tee fitting on the big line so I can keep the level full. This would be acceptable given that line is for the rotary valve bath, correct? This would be the “big” lines from the oil tank that run to the bottom sides of the engine.

 

[Whus02]

The fitting goes to the oil pump, and does not need to be capped.
If you add a T fitting to your looped oil line, it may be worth it to change at least part of the line to a transparent line so you can easily check the oil level.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

The fitting goes to the oil pump, and does not need to be capped.
If you add a T fitting to your looped oil line, it may be worth it to change at least part of the line to a transparent line so you can easily check the oil level.

Great, thank you much.

The line is semi transparent. It is dark, but the flash makes it look solid.

Do you know if that should be 1/2” line?

 

[Whus02]

I think the exact spec is 12mm, which is a little bit smaller than 1/2".

 

[Shifting_Gears]

I think the exact spec is 12mm, which is a little bit smaller than 1/2".

Thanks.

 

[mikidymac]

Seeing how the oil pump fitting is open and you still have the little oil injection lines the PO did not convert to premix correctly and just removed the oil tank.

If I were you I would either do it correctly by removing the oil pump and capping the intake ports or just go back to oil injection.

It was mine I would get an oil tank and go back to injection.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Seeing how the oil pump fitting is open and you still have the little oil injection lines the PO did not convert to premix correctly and just removed the oil tank.

If I were you I would either do it correctly by removing the oil pump and capping the intake ports or just go back to oil injection.

It was mine I would get an oil tank and go back to injection.

Thanks for the input. Other than a half ass job, is there an issue riding it like this assuming I tee the rotary valve line and keep it full of oil? The ski runs fine.

To hook the the tank back up, other than the tank, I would just need to properly re-route the lines?

Is there a GOOD way to get to the oil lines that run to the bottom of the case for the oil bath? I was fishing around and couldn’t get my hand around the carb assembly or exhaust assembly to the line.

 

[mikidymac]

Thanks for the input. Other than a half ass job, is there an issue riding it like this assuming I tee the rotary valve line and keep it full of oil? The ski runs fine.
Yes, the oil pump can seize and the little lines can break causing the engine to lean seize.
To hook the the tank back up, other than the tank, I would just need to properly re-route the lines?
That's pretty much it. I would install new 3/32" lines and a new oil filter. Westside Powersports Seadoo can get you everything you would need.
Is there a GOOD way to get to the oil lines that run to the bottom of the case for the oil bath? I was fishing around and couldn’t get my hand around the carb assembly or exhaust assembly to the line.
No, it's really hard if not impossible with the pipe and air-box installed.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Not familiar with any gray engine DOOs. But if the pumps are the same/similar to earlier DOOs I would cap that main pump inlet. If the smaller lines are still hooked up, all the gearing is in place and the pump is still turning then there is a chance of pulling water into the pump and injecting it, small amounts, in through the pump. This is if the hull ever gets a good amount of water in it up to the pump inlet level.

Sea-Doo oil injection pumps are VERY reliable and I don't understand why so many people delete the system..... If you can, as stated earlier, hook the system back in and avoid premixing. You have a far greater chance of accidentally running straight gas, and killing the motor, than you do of ever having that pump fail.

The only time any rotax oil pumps have been know to fail have been on the fan cooled snowmobiles. Even then it was not the pump, but the plastic shaft/gear that ran from the end of the crankshaft, through the recoil starter and to the pump mounted on the starter. The shaft would twist over time and slip in the crank end, but the pumps themselves never failed.

HOWEVER. The pump also relys on oil to lube it since it has moving parts. If it has been run dry then I would make sure mixed gas is already in the tank and do an operational check on the oil pump before I started throwing straight gas back in. The oil pump might be damaged due to lack of oil.

 

[Whus02]

^didnt think of that, good idea to cap it off then. As other's have stated, it is ultimately better with factory oil injection. And looking at it now it seems like you would have less work restoring the factory system than you would making the oil injection delete work well. Also, if you restore the factory system it would be a good idea to confirm that the oil pump has not been disabled or damaged in some other way (not incredibly likely but you don't want to find out by blowing your motor).

Edit: Oops, replied too quickly and didn't see your edit already mentioned potential oil pump damage.

 

[AKnarrowback]

^didnt think of that, good idea to cap it off then. As other's have stated, it is ultimately better with factory oil injection. And looking at it now it seems like you would have less work restoring the factory system than you would making the oil injection delete work well. Also, if you restore the factory system it would be a good idea to confirm that the oil pump has not been disabled or damaged in some other way (not incredibly likely but you don't want to find out by blowing your motor).

Edit: Oops, replied too quickly and didn't see your edit already mentioned potential oil pump damage.

Yeah, I kept adding to the message.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

Not familiar with any gray engine DOOs. But if the pumps are the same/similar to earlier DOOs I would cap that main pump inlet. If the smaller lines are still hooked up, all the gearing is in place and the pump is still turning then there is a chance of pulling water into the pump and injecting it, small amounts, in through the pump. This is if the hull ever gets a good amount of water in it up to the pump inlet level.

Sea-Doo oil injection pumps are VERY reliable and I don't understand why so many people delete the system..... If you can, as stated earlier, hook the system back in and avoid premixing. You have a far greater chance of accidentally running straight gas, and killing the motor, than you do of ever having that pump fail.

The only time any rotax oil pumps have been know to fail have been on the fan cooled snowmobiles. Even then it was not the pump, but the plastic shaft/gear that ran from the end of the crankshaft, through the recoil starter and to the pump mounted on the starter. The shaft would twist over time and slip in the crank end, but the pumps themselves never failed.

HOWEVER. The pump also relys on oil to lube it since it has moving parts. If it has been run dry then I would make sure mixed gas is already in the tank and do an operational check on the oil pump before I started throwing straight gas back in. The oil pump might be damaged due to lack of oil.

Good info. I will cap it. Only about an inch or two of water in the hull while riding but that’s not to say some couldn’t slosh in there.

I’m not sure why the PO deleted it. Leaky tank maybe?

Thanks for the info regarding the pump. It sounds like at this point if I convert it back I would need to dissemble the intake/carbs anyway to replace the small lines and spin the pump to confirm it’s working.

I don’t mind premix and in a way it’s peace of mind knowing there is no pump to fail. However, sounds like sooner than later I need to do a pump block off to complete it the right way.

 

[Shifting_Gears]

^didnt think of that, good idea to cap it off then. As other's have stated, it is ultimately better with factory oil injection. And looking at it now it seems like you would have less work restoring the factory system than you would making the oil injection delete work well. Also, if you restore the factory system it would be a good idea to confirm that the oil pump has not been disabled or damaged in some other way (not incredibly likely but you don't want to find out by blowing your motor).

Edit: Oops, replied too quickly and didn't see your edit already mentioned potential oil pump damage.

Yeah everything is in place. I contacted the PO and he left the lines in tact, just removed the oil tank and looped the lines to the rotary bath.


I did splice the rotary bath lines last night and made sure the oil level was full. Thankfully it didn’t take much at all to top off, so there was definitely adequate oil in there.

 

[mikidymac]

You can’t just leave the pump there spinning with no oil, it will seize.
You don’t need to take anything apart other than the top plastic air box to replace the little oil lines.
You will have to pull the intake to remove the oil pump.

We are being honest with you, it’s easier, less expensive and 100% safe to go back to oil injection.