What are these (I have 2 of them) and where do they go?

[mbushnell]

I found these in my recently acquired ski, and have no idea of what they are let alone where they get installed. I am thinking they are something to do with the air box, but not sure.

 

[tkarvelis]

Yes they are. They go near the manifold

 

[mikidymac]

Correct, they keep water from splashing into the intake snorkels.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

In that photo, the MAG side is not installed correctly. it would go under the pipe

 

[mbushnell]

In that photo, the MAG side is not installed correctly. it would go under the pipe

Thanks to all for the information. However that pic is so small its hard to see how they are attached. And when you say under a pipe, not sure what pipe. Sorry I am so stupid on this stuff. I am new to this type of stuff, and just want to make sure I get it right the first time and not having to redo stuff.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

the rubber pieces are (I think) unique to each side, they go on the tabs BEFORE the air 'horns' go on. they prevent water splashes from entering the engine. (water in engine = bad day).

I'm at work so I can't take a pic of mine. In 01 they also added more tabs to the brackets, so mine at home are slightly diff, but same idea...

 

[Spimothy Leary]

FWIW, I've found those flaps in storage buckets, down in the bottom of the hull, and/or missing more often than i've found them installed correctly. So you are not alone


the diaper is a good idea as well, do you have one?

this youtube might help give you a full size view (skip to 1:30)

[video=youtube;LAbv0cmCPvE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAbv0cmCPvE[/video]

 

[mbushnell]

Yes, that answered it perfectly. Thanks for the link and for posting.

 

[mbushnell]

Not sure what the diaper is? Is that the gasket for the pump assy and does it go here?

 

[mikidymac]

The diaper is a recall/update part that seadoo added later in the production. The 951's had an issue of that pipe to manifold gasket leaking and spraying water into the carb intake killing the engines. The diaper redirects the leak spray to the bottom of the hull and away from the carb intake.

 

[mbushnell]

So is this something I need to try and get?

 

[mbushnell]

FWIW, I've found those flaps in storage buckets, down in the bottom of the hull, and/or missing more often than i've found them installed correctly. So you are not alone


the diaper is a good idea as well, do you have one?

this youtube might help give you a full size view (skip to 1:30)

[video=youtube;LAbv0cmCPvE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAbv0cmCPvE[/video]

So are those flaps supposed to go under the exhaust pipe or over like in that video? I would think if that gasket goes, then water would shoot right to the carbs with the flaps up like here. And to answer your question on if I have one of those diapers... No. Should I get one and if so anyone have the part #?

 

[mbushnell]

POP OFF Hack Tool - Something I put together to get the pop off right on my carbs. They were both around 28-32 psi. What I did...
On my air compressor I set the output to its lowest setting which was at or just under 10 psi. I then hooked up my hack tool in the picture to the fuel inlet on the carb and plugged all the other outlets and inlets on the carb etc.. Then I held the pressure on and slowly turned up the psi. I watched it go slowly up and i would hold it for a minute or so every few psi. Then at around 28 to 32 psi it popped. I then turned it down a little and seen that they sealed right back up. I know this is not the preferred method, but its close enough for me right now. Keep in mind, I do not have a bunch of money to go throwing around for tools that I will use just a few times. So this is why I gathered what I had in my garage and made this. Thoughts?

 

[mbushnell]

One other thing, I did find the original restrictor as well, so I wasted my $15 for the other set of lines, but it was still worth it to learn about this, but was a bit of gas to and from. Oh well. Here is the restrictor I removed to see what the fuss is all about. I was very surprised at how small this little jewel is. But here it is in all its glory.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Correct the flaps go under the exhaust pipe.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

On the year 2001 and up they switched to a rubber gasket that sits in a recess inside the exhaust manifold. Regardless of using the rubber gasket or paper gasket depending upon your year I would add the exhaust cover that you are calling a diaper... When that paper gasket fails around 150 to 250 hours it allows water into the engine.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

So are those flaps supposed to go under the exhaust pipe or over like in that video? I would think if that gasket goes, then water would shoot right to the carbs with the flaps up like here. And to answer your question on if I have one of those diapers... No. Should I get one and if so anyone have the part #?

the diaper part # 274000862

I think I paid like $24 new, $10 used, ebay.

many of us call it a diaper, I have no idea why...
I think the official term is pickup envelope ?

and, yes, you don't need one until its too late and the mechanic says "you should have had a diaper on this" so I'd grab one off fleabay.

 

[mbushnell]

You all rock! Thanks so much for all your posts and information. I am buying a diaper, and new exhaust gasket. And for an update, I got it started last night, and it seems to be a little hard starting with the idle set to around 1100-1200 rpm. If I turn it down then it will start, and I have to hold the throttle open slightly. Any ideas?
Also, I was hoping one of you could give me some pointers on setting the carbs correctly, and the best way to tune it in. I have looked at all the different posts on the order in which to tune, but have not found something that gives me a step by step sort of thing. If this were a car I would have no issues, or even an outboard motor, both somewhat older of course. So I am needing it dumbed up is what I am trying to say. (blushing). I did set the stock setting to what they are supposed to be for the low and high speed screws on both carbs., The highs have the plastic limiter on them, and I was thinking it best to probably leave them on. But I will defer to the pros, so if anyone could help this dumb newb would be very much appreciated.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Idle should be set to 3,000 RPM on the trailer, which equates to about 1400 on the water.

you want to warm the engine up before making idle adjustments on the water.

or warm it up, and leave it on the trailer in the water, and adjust that way to 1400 +_ 100

the 951 is closed high speeds (plastic caps) and 1.5 out on the lows. I've never needed to adjust more than 1/4 turn or LESS from this on the LOWS only. Never needed to touch highs.

 

[mikidymac]

As Sabrtooth said a stock seadoo will be adjusted perfectly with the stock carb settings. If it doesn't then something else is wrong.
I would also confirm that your accelerator pump is squirting fuel now that it has been reconnected.

 

[mbushnell]

I am pretty sure it is pumping. When I hold the throttle open just a little around the 3000 it is fine. Then if I snap the throttle it responds perfectly and comes back down right away. This does mean its working right? Also I was able to find the gasket kit for the exhaust and picking it up shortly. It is a newer one that includes the diaper too so that is a plus. Its $60, so that is not great, but its what I need.
I will get the idle set at 3000 rpm on land, just to make sure it is working good there and no leaks. I had to change the gasket as it was leaking around it anyways. Super glad I had the flaps on it or my carbs would have taken in water. Whew! Then I will leave it on my trailer and put it in the water to do the final adjustments.
As for the oil. I had to drain the tank, clean it and re-seal it cause it was leaking around the seems on one end. Got it fixed and back together. How do I make sure the oil is making it to the carbs. I see the oil has made it down to the pump, but no idea if its getting any further.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

osd parts sells a lot of good old 2 stroke parts.

you'd want to test the pump either off the ski, or if you remove the carbs you could see it i guess.

 

[mbushnell]

I took off the oil pump, plugged the main line coming from the tank. Then hooked a small hose to my drill, then put the other end of the hose over the pump tab, and ran the drill in the same rotation as the motor would do. Then watched as the oil was pumping from the pump to the carbs so yeah!!!!
I also notice when I hit the throttle and the pump activated it also does a push of oil. So I think I am good there. Going to pull the pump on the back now to check that gasket and see if it needs replaced.

 

[mbushnell]

Wanted to update everyone on this ski. Got the carbs adjusted perfectly. Ran great at idle, put some gas to it and bog bog bog. After some additional research found that it was the Reeds. Got a good used set and it goes like a banshee. Well it used to for a couple years. Last year towards the end of the season, I found my ski one morning sunken. Front half still floating. So I took it out of the water, drained it and let it be until winter.
Since then I have took it apart and rebuilt it. Glad I did as one of the pistons were cracked slightly. So this probably saved me. The reason it sank was the rubber bellows behind the VTS unit was dry rotted.
I have been finishing it up and getting ready to finish the install this Friday.
Before I put it in the hull do any of you have any last minute things I need to look at, adjust or inspect?

Thanks again.

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure you go through the carbs and fuel system. Don't forget the balancer oil. I hope you bought new reeds this time. I would never consider used reeds, as they are a wear item that should be replaced with new.