Wear Ring Question and Cavitation

[pwgsx]

Yea that does not look the best on the end near the carbon ring for it to seal too well. I would buy a new shaft IMO

 

[xintersecty]

I cleaned up the driveshaft this morning. Yeah I am beginning to have doubts on the long term sealing of that section with the top hat. This might be a temp solution until I can afford one. Either I will paint that section to fill in the void with a good sand down to make seal. OR pack it with ample grease. Fortunately this year I now have a boat lift to keep out of the water long term.

I really want to get the boat back in the water so I can enjoy it. End of season, I am planning to pull the supercharger and get it rebuilt and once I do that I can replace the shaft.

 

[pwgsx]

Sounds like a plan. I wouldn't paint that surface near the top hat, put new O rings in the hat and pack with waterproof grease. You can paint the center of the shaft though. For S.S. it sure likes to rust.

 

[xintersecty]

I came up with a novel fix for the pitting around where the o-rings sit with the top hat. I used a marine epoxy filled in that section of the drive shaft. I then sanded that section to bare metal. The pits near the o-rings are partially filled. So it's not great and with grease it should fill keep the water out and reduce more corrosion.

Speaking of corrosion, I know why the 30 amp and accessory fuse kept blowing. The weedless system motor is completely shot.

So there goes my drive shaft savings...at least I can get the boat in the water and wait on this part.

 

[brobertov8]

I came up with a novel fix for the pitting around where the o-rings sit with the top hat. I used a marine epoxy filled in that section of the drive shaft. I then sanded that section to bare metal. The pits near the o-rings are partially filled. So it's not great and with grease it should fill keep the water out and reduce more corrosion.

Speaking of corrosion, I know why the 30 amp and accessory fuse kept blowing. The weedless system motor is completely shot.
View attachment 26978
So there goes my drive shaft savings...at least I can get the boat in the water and wait on this part.

Completely normal that motor in that condition - rust and dead -.
I had an 1995 XP and it was exactly like that. At least here in these lands, I found the exact same motor from "car electric power windows" for a good price, and works!

I just dont know if seadoo could do something about it, but water always get in in that box and always destroy that motor.

 

[xintersecty]

Completely normal that motor in that condition - rust and dead -.
I had an 1995 XP and it was exactly like that. At least here in these lands, I found the exact same motor from "car electric power windows" for a good price, and works!.

ohhh, do you have any of your research for that motor? I will start researching in that direction when I get home. Great Idea!

 

[brobertov8]

ohhh, do you have any of your research for that motor? I will start researching in that direction when I get home. Great Idea!

Here in Brazil I used one of these "Mabuchi Power Window Motor"... Is incredible sheap here... R$ 24,00 would be like 10 US dólares.

http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/...ico-universal-modelo-mabuchi-cada-unidade-_JM

You have "OEM" on Ebay, which I believe is the same motor (hehehe):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Sea-Doo..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item540baf965d&vxp=mtr


First thing I ever see which is sheaper here than there.

You can try search "mabuchi" from china (aliexpress etc...)

 

[pwgsx]

Make sure the rubber boot for the VTS is held on with plastic clamps and not the metal gear clamps, those rip the boot. Also when you get it working remove the cover of the VTS unit and pack in 2 cans of marine grease and put the cover back on. Sounds crazy I know, but if water happens to try and come in, it cannot push the grease out of the way and no damage will occur. I did this on my RXP with the same issue, she ran great for 10 years and no water ever came in.

 

[xintersecty]

Oh woe is me! I am filled with great sadness! :-(

Last night after getting everything cleaned and getting the drive shaft/carbon seal back in place. I went to the lake. For the first 10 miles, the boat did beautifully. I got the boat in the water, my buddy took the truck back with trailer back to the house, and we meet at my dock (landing 5 miles to my dock).

He came down and we off to the bar. I got 5 miles out and WHAM. Something went funny in the engine compartment. I am stop examined the problem. The C ring cam off and I was leaking water around the carbon seal.

I did make it back to dock and on the lift. Ran the sump pump for about 10 minutes till it ran dry. So if a carbon seal goes, your boat is going down. I am going to find the c-ring in the bottom of boat.

So Questions:
Should I use it again?
Is there a trick to have stay in place?
Go buy a new c-ring?
What is the tie wrap trick?

 

[pwgsx]

The C ring should not come off like that unless you forgot to install the black rubber bumper at the end of the driveshaft which gave too much play and not enough pressure against the black boot OR you didn't have the metal hat pushed over the C clip correctly ( you should not be able to see the clip once the hat is installed ) and it should be a snug fit OR the black boot was not clamped right and the hat and carbon ring slipped down the shaft OR the shaft was not correctly installed on the engine side- you should not be able to see the tell tail makes on the shaft when installed correctly. I would get a new C clip and take some pics of how it looks now and when you are done re-installing.
Once the carbon ring blows, your craft is going down in a hurry. I would invest in a bigger bilge pump as a back-up.

 

[xintersecty]

Thanks for the quick answer!
1) I had installed a new rubber bumper on the engine side.
2) It is possible I did not have the Metal Hat pushed over the c-clip properly (I am going with that one).

I will see if I can pick an c clip and repair on dock.
Oh yeah you are not kidding about having a bilge pump. I think I will buy an extra portable too.

 

[xintersecty]

Checked the seal last night. The C ring is in place. It only leaks when the motor is running. Now have to pull the boat out of the water and pull the drive shaft to check the rubber bumper. Sigh.

 

[pwgsx]

Snap a pic of the shaft and all in the boat. It might be a easy fix. It is odd it only leaks when running- not enough pressure on the carbon seal or maybe your pump is out of alignment??

 

[xintersecty]

Snap a pic of the shaft and all in the boat. It might be a easy fix. It is odd it only leaks when running- not enough pressure on the carbon seal or maybe your pump is out of alignment??

There was a thump and everything went whacky. I am taking it out of the water tomorrow and will take a movie of it running. It maybe an alignment issues.

 

[xintersecty]

forgot to install the black rubber bumper at the end of the driveshaft which gave too much play and not enough pressure against the black boot

Don't you love it when you are right? Well I did install the rubber bumper, it decided to destroy its self. THANKS SBT! So you called it as the bumper being a possibility.

Now there is plastic crap inside the PTO. Any suggestions on cleaning that crap out? Hopefully I will be able to find my old one or order one quickly.

 

[xintersecty]

I finally got my PTO cleaned out. What a !@#$%. I end up using a screwdriver to tap the stuck plastic. I also had to remove the bearing there to make sure that was cleaned. I suspect, that I am going to have to change the oil and oil filter. I almost have everything back together. I have to make an other carbon ring pull tool as I snapped my old one.

Here is what left of the old bumper and my new old one!

 

[pwgsx]

Man that sucks but at least you found the issue. I like being right too . LOL. I now wonder if it was just a bad bumper from SBT or something else that caused it to do that like the shaft not being properly installed into the bearings on the pto. I cant remember if I re-used my old ones or went with the SBT ones. Kinda worried now, dammm SBT!!

 

[xintersecty]

I got the boat back in the water after much difficulty and distraction with the IBS or whatever it's called. I found that the stop for the back motion was broken and finally got it the up position and left the 12 volts unplugged to the motor. In the future I may make a switch to manually move it up and down.

Back to the wear ring and carbon seal. I made some tools to help me in with the drive shaft and carbon seal.


The top part stops the drive shaft and holds it in place.
The bottom part moves the carbon seal back to put the C clip on

Here is the drive shaft move preventer

There is a tool just like this out of the service manual however I am too cheap to pay thousands of dollars but thrifty enough to make it out of scrap plywood.

I found this works better than leaving the pump on as it I can keep it from going backwards. My drive shaft had some play back.

I made this tool out of solid oak as I have to put some serious pressure on it.

Here is the other end of business

You can see the c-clip exposed.

 

[xintersecty]

Oh yeah back in the water and on lift

I did go down to the dock and try to run it. Alas I left the stupid battery on and I have no power. Now I had to lug that guy back up the hill and charge it. At least it ran great yesterday!