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Wear ring? like clutch is slipping?

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motrmaniac

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alright front a dead stop if i go full throttle it revs up and then starts to go almost like a slipping clutch. i was readin about the wear ring and im guessin this can cause it.. does anything have any insight on this and know of a how to on how to change the wear ring is there anything eles that will casue this?
 
Wear Ring

I cannot help you with the procedure for replacing the wear ring. But it sounds like that is your problem. I had a ring replaced in my 2006 Wake Edition at about 80 hours (it seemed that we must have ingested something). Now at 150 hours, I had it replaced again; both times the wear ring looked like it had been perfectly machined.

Anyway, now after another hour of use, I am experiencing the same problem; no hole shot or high end performance. I am wondering if it could be some bearing issue or that the impleller flexes during brief moments in the air, causing the impeller to machine out the ring.

Dealer will be looking at it again this week.
 
I am experiencing the same thing and have been trying to get an answer in regards to the seal tray. My wear ring looks fine. The seal tray is a rubber seal that fills the gap between the grate and the hull. Mine is worn and part of it is missing. Therefore, trash is constantly getting caught in there and causing cavitation. Also, I get cavitation even when there is no debris caught in it. Judging by how little debris it takes to cause the cavitation, I am thinking the void of this missing seal is causing turbulance in the pump and creating air bubbles causing the cavitation. Does this sound reasonable to anyone?
 
The "carbon seal" serves as the shaft seal

If the carbon seal is worn or the pre load is incorrect, you can suck air and cause cavitation.
Many times it is only some small debris in the pump. Even a twig or a piece of plastic can cause cavitation.
Also shine a light trom either end (cone and intake) and look at the gap between the impeller blade edges and the wear ring. Should be about 10 thou, no more I believe.
 
The carbon seal is enclosed in the rubber accordion sleeve

The carbon seal serves as the shaft seal, keeping the lake water out of your hull where the shaft exits the hull. The black rubber accordion sleeve is what holds pressure on the carbon seal.
 
So if the carbon seal is worn and causing it to suck air, would it also leak water into the hull?? My hull stays dry.

What do you mean by pre load?

Thanks
 
Not necessarily

I have never had problems on my SeaDoo's carbon seals and pre-load, most of what I know is from sea-doo.net and jetboating.net.
You can "suck air" and cause cavitation without necessarily leaking water into the hull.

The carbon seal is held in place by the rubber accordion sleeve, it works like a spring to hold pressure on the carbon seal and seal around the shaft while still allowing it to spin. The rubber accordion is held in place at either end by hose clamps or ty wraps. By shortening up the accordion by sliding it back it increases the pressure (pre-load) on the carbon seal. Try sea-doo.net and the message board search for "pre-load" and "carbon seal".
 
I am having the same problem on my 2002 gtx di. I had a bearing go out and it took out the whole pump. It messed up everything inside the pump. I had all new parts and had it reassembled but the guy at the shop said he thought the prop could be salvaged. I had no cavitation before the bearing failure but when i got the pump back and reinstalled it it wouldnt pull out of the water. I would have to play with the throttle to get it out of the water. I have two of the gtx di's and i have had the pump assembly off several times on each. I had to replace the accordian boots on both skis and also the carbon wear rings. I just had the other pump rebuilt two weeks ago on my other ski and kept the same prop. No problems when i put it back together and put the ski in the water. He had to do a little work to the prop on the one i just repaired and now it is cavitating. I assume the prop needs to be replaced???? If that is the case shouldnt a qualified seadoo mechanic have been able to check the clearance between the prop and the wear ring? Is there anything else that can cause it? I know there is no debris caught it it anywhere. If it isnt the prop shouldnt it have done that before? Any ideas?
 
I'm no expert, only read a lot of forums

A prop can always be repaired/rebult and even changed. PPG that owns sea-doo.net does it. Perhaps this site or an affiliate does? The post office now has boxes good to 70 lb to ship easy.

You get a good deal on a trade-in/exchange

What are your RPM's? Sound like it is cavitating?
 
I did not check my rpms when it was cavitaing. My other ski did the same thing before I had the pump rebuilt. It is cavitating for sure. I am all to familiar with the sound it makes when doing so. Just not sure of all the variables that cause it. The rpms are definately higher than normal. It sounds as though the ski is out of the water when it does it.
 
Ok guys it was a bad seal. I got a new one and put it all back together. No cavitation. The rpm was holding at 6370. My other ski which is the same make and model is running around 6500. Any ideas where to turn next. plan on having my girlfriend ride one this weekend while i am on the other and see if it is still slower. Maybe the speedo is off. The rpms on it before i cleaned the rave valves and adjusted the throttle cable was 5700. I know it is turning more rpms now but according to the speedo it is running the same speed. Will find out this weekend if it is just incorrect speedo.
 
2006 Wake Board Edition

Dealer re-did the wear ring on my 2006 Wake Board Edition. Apparently, they had done something wrong when installing the previous wear ring, so they did not charge me for the redo!

This is a great dealer, who was willing to admit they had done something wrong and make it right.

Ran the unit 4 hours this past weekend with no problem.
 
We have had this problem on several of our rebuilds in the past.
"IF" you have ever had the motor removed? I have found that the wear ring problem is most likely from a "misalignment" problem (with your motor mounts). Just a slight offset can put uneven pressure on the shaft which pushes the impeller towards one side of the wear ring. Cavitation (or air) is then induced, most notable on startups.

Maybe not everybody's issue here but if you have ever had the motor out it may be food for thought.
 
I had a full weekend of riding the skis this weekend. My girlfriend rode the ski that I just had the pump rebuilt on and with her on it was turning 6700 rpms. Went the whole weekend without any problems. Maybe now I have finally ironed out all the problems. Looking forward to next weekend already.
 
I replaced the rubber seal between the pump and the ski. It's like an 8 dollar part. Works fine now and no cavitation.
 
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