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Water Pump Impeller

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DLB

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hi all, took the "new to me" boat out for the first time this past saturday and it overheated. the nipple that holds the thermostat in the water pump housing blew off and coolant spilled into the bilge. i got a used water pump housing off of ebay and i am going to put the 160 degree thermostat in also. while i have the water pump housing off i am cleaning up the area and decide to check the water pump impeller. my question is.. should i be able to spin the water pump impeller by hand? because i cannot. does it only spin while the engine is running?
 
hi all, took the "new to me" boat out for the first time this past saturday and it overheated. the nipple that holds the thermostat in the water pump housing blew off and coolant spilled into the bilge. i got a used water pump housing off of ebay and i am going to put the 160 degree thermostat in also. while i have the water pump housing off i am cleaning up the area and decide to check the water pump impeller. my question is.. should i be able to spin the water pump impeller by hand? because i cannot. does it only spin while the engine is running?

Would assume w/o a belt and pulley the pump would be gear driven.

One way to find out.....with cover off have someone watch while you hold throttle all the way open and crank the motor. It won't start and you should see everything move.
 
Though I have not torn into a 4-tec, I would agree that if it is not belt driven, then it is gear driven from within. If you grab the impeller can you wiggle it left an right even a tiny bit. As in, hitting the tooth of the gear that it i meshed with.
 
ok. so i have the waterpump housing and gasket (#22&23) off of the engine. the water pump is basically an impeller (#21) attached to the oil pump shaft (#16). it looks to me like it is gear driven. does that mean that i should not be able to spin it by hand?
Screenshot-2015-03-19-22.42.jpg
 
Yes, unless engine is running, which means oil pump is turning then water pump will not rotate by hand.


Rob
 
i dont have that part of the engine torn down (just the waterpump housing). so i cant verify if the gear is hitting the other gear. i cant remember if it wiggles even a little bit. i dont think so though. i will check in the morning.
 
Corrosion, age, defect, anything.

Post pix of it.



Rob

ok here is a picture of the "water pump housing" and the "nipple" that came off and blew coolant out. it's all plastic parts so corrosion wouldnt be the issue. when i put it back together i am going to use jb weld and that t-bolt hose clamp to hold it together. should work, there is a thread on another forum that gives step by step on how to change the thermostat and this is basically the same thing.

just wondering why this thing would blow out in the first place. i got a used housing off of ebay and that thing is in there TIGHT!

426.jpg
 
ok here is a picture of the "water pump housing" and the "nipple" that came off and blew coolant out. it's all plastic parts so corrosion wouldnt be the issue. when i put it back together i am going to use jb weld and that t-bolt hose clamp to hold it together. should work, there is a thread on another forum that gives step by step on how to change the thermostat and this is basically the same thing.

just wondering why this thing would blow out in the first place. i got a used housing off of ebay and that thing is in there TIGHT!

426.jpg

Before all that...was that t-bolt on there already? because it ain't stock.
...thinkin someone swapped the thermo and didn't get that clamp either on tight...or not positioned correctly. I swapped mined years ago...used a simple worm clamp...never had an issue. Should be no need for epoxy.
 
Before all that...was that t-bolt on there already? because it ain't stock.
...thinkin someone swapped the thermo and didn't get that clamp either on tight...or not positioned correctly. I swapped mined years ago...used a simple worm clamp...never had an issue. Should be no need for epoxy.

no that clamp was not already on there. i got it at autozone to put on there for extra reinforcement. a simple worm hose clamp doesnt seem strong enough for the hard plastic. still had original thermostat in there. is it possible that thermostat stuck and pressure built up forcing that to pop off?
 
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Plastic does fail overtime especially in heated applications. Your in FL. chances are that boat has seen salt water as well. I wouldn't use that t-bolt, I would use a standard stainless steel radiator hose clamp.

Trust me. I worked professionally for 9 years on exotic cars in miami. I know FL heat, and the majority of repairs I did were on the cooling system.

Cooling systems are now a wear item, just like brakes, tires, belts, oil etc.

Nearly every model uses plastic and the weep, seep, crack, split, burst, overheat everything. Ive seen cars where customer just kept on driving because coolant thermostat housing split, ignored the red light, engine detonating out of control and melted the plastic intake and knock sensors to the cylinder heads lol.

Thermostats usually stick open, causing overcooling, and lower engine operating temps, causing an engine to run in open loop longer, burn more fuel and ecm thinking it is in warmup mode constantly ( thats in the obd2 world, i dont know what these boats run on ) there are instances where t-stats stick closed and then the weakest point in cooling system will blow or begin to bleed off psi, and leak coolant.


You shouldn't have any more problems with it for a while, but why used? They don't offer this item from dealer?

( I mess strictly with 90s 2 stroke seadoos so if this is some unobtanium boat part then don't wonder why I asked if you couldn't purchase new ha )



Rob
 
Plastic does fail overtime especially in heated applications. Your in FL. chances are that boat has seen salt water as well. I wouldn't use that t-bolt, I would use a standard stainless steel radiator hose clamp.

Trust me. I worked professionally for 9 years on exotic cars in miami. I know FL heat, and the majority of repairs I did were on the cooling system.

Cooling systems are now a wear item, just like brakes, tires, belts, oil etc.

Nearly every model uses plastic and the weep, seep, crack, split, burst, overheat everything. Ive seen cars where customer just kept on driving because coolant thermostat housing split, ignored the red light, engine detonating out of control and melted the plastic intake and knock sensors to the cylinder heads lol.

Thermostats usually stick open, causing overcooling, and lower engine operating temps, causing an engine to run in open loop longer, burn more fuel and ecm thinking it is in warmup mode constantly ( thats in the obd2 world, i dont know what these boats run on ) there are instances where t-stats stick closed and then the weakest point in cooling system will blow or begin to bleed off psi, and leak coolant.


You shouldn't have any more problems with it for a while, but why used? They don't offer this item from dealer?

( I mess strictly with 90s 2 stroke seadoos so if this is some unobtanium boat part then don't wonder why I asked if you couldn't purchase new ha )



Rob

i got used because local dealer wants $315. i've found online new for $225. ebay used was $30. it was a good deal since all i really need is the nipple part.
 
Not to say it couldn't happen...just never heard of it happening to an oem housing. Wonder if someone hasn't had it opened...and not got the tabs in the right place....or...I dunno...didn't clamp it after re-assembly

When I swapped my oem thermo out I used the boiling water method to expand the housing before using channel locks or somethin to turn the end. ...to go back together I used a small block of wood/hammer to tap it back into the housing before I clamped mine down...never using a sealant...no leaks.
 
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