Water in Carbs???

[FrankyJ87]

G'day, short version: Water is entering the carbs via the rotary valve. (657x engine). Where could the water be coming from?

Long version: After tuning the carbs on my speedster, it was working awesome for about 10 mins and it seemed to "drop" its tune ??? I recently had a starboard engine installed and the mechanic didnt use loctite on the starboard engine exhaust pipe (where the purple pipe bolts to the white part) thus flooding the engine bay with water when the bolts vibrated loose.

After taking it back to them and explaining what happend to the port engine ( And their awesome starboard job) a day later they tell me the port carbs are flooding with water coming from the rotary valve. They also said that the casing in the area there could have deteriorated.

So questions are (sorry can talk a leg off a chair):

1) where could the water be coming from and
2) can the casing in that area deteriorate?

Any ideas?

 

[Dr Honda]

I may be misunderstanding ... but there is no way water is coming from the rotary valve. There is no water in that part of the engine. SO... if it were coming from the outside... then you have other issues, as your engines would be half submerged.

Sounds like you have a shop that is looking for an excuse to not fix their (bad) work. Besides... if the cases were deteriorated... they should have told you while the engine was being rebuilt, not after you have been running it for a while.

Finally... unless you have yellow engine... the only place there is water is in the jugs, head, and pipe. There isn't even water close to the valve assembly.

 

[FrankyJ87]

okay, just in case i got it wrong.

There isn't a reed valve on a 657x its the rotary valve, yes?

and the mechanic said that water is filling the carbs from the engine side.

isnt the carbs attached to the engine where the rotary valve is?

so it makes me wonder where the water is from now that you said that there isnt any water anywhere near that area. Unless there was water in that lower case to begin with from the excess water from starboard exhaust (which i doubt cos it was running fine after i pulled it out of water and ran it abit to get water out of cooling system, just wouldnt rev, thought maybe carby's were prob)

also the water wasnt above the carbs in the engine bay. (conked out from no compression and wouldnt start therefore didnt put that much water in engine bay but still a fair bit)

btw his half arsed job was on the starboard engine. the above problem was with the port engine. I ran it once on the water and found the fault and took it back to them (2 1/2 hours away i might add, and they even had the hide to ask me to put lock tite in it myself.

hopefully this was abit clearer,

cheers,
franky

 

[voodoo]

As Tony mentioned there is no water cooling on the carb side of the seadoo, water may have leaked backwards from the loose exhaust seal area, use a drop of the blue colored stuff which is a very common thread lock - look at any auto parts store, you should have this anyway as almost anything connected to a boat asks for this medium style sealer, but back to water injestion, get the leak sealed right way and start the motor pronto to run out this water, sitting more than a couple days inside risks damage to the rotating parts, whenever you lift the boat out always pull the bilge plugs and fire up the motor with a couple short throttle spurts to get all the juices out, if you are in salt or brackish water proceed to do a freshwater hose flush to preserve the water jacket lifespan.

 

[FrankyJ87]

sorry, did have a few beers under my belt for that last post.

the starboard engine was the one with the exhaust prob, but that has been fixed.

the port engine was the one with the water getting in the carbs.
This engine seemed to start up fine when i kicked it over and idled fine.

I'll give you an update in what the mechanic said.

cheers for your help lads

 

[FrankyJ87]

Resolution

G'day Lads,

I spoke to the mechanic about my boat today and its going good (I will pick it up on saturday and then take it for a spin to see the difference between their good and mine).

They could not find where the mystery water was coming from and as you all said, it wasnt coming from the rotary valve side.

A mate and I suspect it was from the water in the engine bay caused by the mechanics half arsed job sealing the exhaust.

The mech's thought the water may have been in the fuel tank, but they couldn't find any when they tested it.

they did find a mangled piece of the oil pump bit inside the port carby that wasnt working properly. (some reta... ahem.... thoughtfull person had used plyers on this particular part and butchered it and it was letting in too much oil, cant remember the name of the part)

In the end the boat is running now but they have no idea where the water was from.

They did rebuld the port carby, cleaned the starboard carby, tuned both engines (starboard one they failed to do when they installed it)

In the end this trip to the mechanic cost me $877, mainly labour, the biggest burner of holes in pockets.

I dont think I will be taking this back to these guy's ever again.

On a slightly unrelated topic im going to install fuel and water sepperators on the fuel lines to eliminate fuel and water contamination in the engine.

thanks again for your help and info lads,

Franky

 

[voodoo]

Seadoo put a water in the bowl of the fuel filter/s but they have to be cleaned at least in the beginning of the season, oil does not go into any seadoo carb, what you may have is a prime kit that was used to reduce the cranking time - pictures will be needed to sort thru what type you have as there were a few 3d party kits offered back in the day.

 

[FrankyJ87]

Ah righty o, when i get her back on saturday ill have a gander in the back there and take a few pics.

 

[FrankyJ87]

mangled part

G'day all, its been a while.

I didnt end up getting a picture of the part. But it was the little spring lever that controls the amount of oil at different speeds. ( where the cable connects to under the carb) that particular part had been mangled with pliers and was stuck open.

In any case I got the boat back from the shop and it went awesome for about 45 mins then started surging/ spluttering. :ack:

I pulled it out of the water and ran it to get the water out then went home.

I tried to start it a 2 days later and the engine the mech put in wouldnt turn over. (*CLICK*) Same sound of the last crap seized engine.

So i pulled the plugs and tried to turn the PTO and wouldnt budge. So back the shop with it again.

They had a quick look down the plug holes with a camera and noticed that nothing had seized or at least the cylinders cos they moved. So there guess was maybe a magnet had come loose in the magnito but they need to pull the engine to be sure.

In the end the engine is under warrenty so they said anything mechanically wrong with the engine its their fault. :hurray: So now I play the waiting game.

Cheers for all your help everyone,

FRANKY

 

[Dr Honda]

Sounds like the shop has a bunch of monkeys working there. Personally, I would go find a new shop.

 

[FrankyJ87]

Yeah your not wrong there mate. Once they have done what I paid them for and it actually works im going to a different mob in sydney if i cant do it myself. They have more competion up there so they cant really afford to get a bad rep.

 

[Dr Honda]

If you want to save money, and do the work yourself... we are here to help. :cheers:

 

[FrankyJ87]

Latest from the awesome mechs

Dont know how to delete post.

 

[FrankyJ87]

Latest from the awesome mechs

G'day heres the latest one.

I got my boat back from the mechanics. They said the rotary valve gear had overheated after running out of fuel and snagged the casing.

Anyhoo they fixed it free of charge. I picked it up and went down the water that afternoon and the other engine was going crap now :rant:

When i got home I done a bit of investegation. I pulled the airbox and flame arestor off and had a look and realised the choke was half on! I followed the cable and it turns out the mechanic had dropped the engine in ontop of the cable causing it to do the above choke problem. :ack:

After I fixed that I went down the river the next day and had a run in the boat and it ran sweet.......untill the the port engine started to splutter.

Turns out the nut and post on the exhaust had vibrated loose. Went good after it was tightend. Then later as we were taking her back to the trailer the identicle nut on the other side snapped off completely! :ack:

Maybe all these things are starting to go wrong because its an old boat, not including the mechs incredably poor attention to detail. They can miss something like a choke cable under the engine but wont miss a worn drive shaft thats a $360 replacement not including all replacment wear kit from impeller to PTO :rant:

But when she goes she really goes and you have absolute ball :rofl:

Also I noticed somthing in the bilge up near the muffler when I was loctiting the mufler nut and pulled out a muffler bolt, a lost elec box bolt, what looks like a hinge bolt and a hose clamp (PIX). Ill be buggered if i know where hose clamp came from.

Lastly on a postivie/Ironic note, I actually ran into the owner of the "new" engine that was put in my boat down the river. Turns out he sold his old ski to the mech who ripped out the engine and put it in my boat. I told him about seadoo forums so hopefully he might join. Small world LOL.

Anyhoo ive ear bashed you all enough for one post :rofl:,

Catch ya,

Franky