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Water flow regulator confusion.

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allsevensinz

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Hi all, Just wanted to post something here to see what sort of feedback i can get. I have checked out the other threads about this topic but got a little lost. Anyway my bellow had rusted out and was leaking so i got one of these

http://www.jetskijunk.co.nz/index.php?id_product=673&controller=product&id_lang=1

and it seems to have gone in fine and i have run it out of water with the hose hooked up and had no leaks. Now the problem is I adjusted the red adjuster on top of the water flow regulator that all the manuals say not to. I was unsure about its setting because before I adjusted it, it was about 2mm lower then the casing its screwed into. I followed the directions from the service manual and it said screw all the way in then counter clock wise 3 turns. This made it sit about 1-2 mills proud of the casing. I also have seen a post saying set the red screw flush with the casing and turn counter clockwise 2 clicks which actual is about the same as the manual says. Moving on from that the issue i have is am i on the right track and would it possibly have been set wrong prior to me touching it or have i misunderstood the method for setting it back to factory setting?

Any feedback's greatly appreciated thanks all.
 
I may be wrong so someone correct me if i am wrong but i have been under the impression that it is adjustable so that YOU can set it to wherever you prefer. If i recall correctly , turning the adjustment clockwise (down) will send water to the pipe at a lower RPM while turning the knob counter-clockwise(up) will make the water inject more at a higher PRM offering slightly better top end. This is what i have always thought and have read in threads over time.

Someone chime in and tell me if i am correct or not, not trying to lead anyone in the wrong direction!
 
Thanks for the reply, I've read the same things and some say can be adjusted and some say shouldn't be. Its a little confusing isn't it lol, The service manual says it can cause serious damage adjusting it then some people say it wouldn't have an adjustable screw on top if it couldn't be. This is proving to be a challenging topic to get info about. I want it to run good all around and I'm hoping I'm not going to lose anything down low or up top the way its set. Here's to fingers crossed that it's setup right i guess lol I'll post how its running after I get a chance to test it not that i have anything to compare it too being that its my 1st ski, only had it 1 month and only had it out 3 times......
 
It is adjustable and Rosie is correct.

Mine stands about the same, 1-2mm above the housing on my 98GTXL.
 
Under the red adjuster cap is a spring that presses on a piston connected to a bellows. Turning the adjuster clockwise screws the cap down and puts more pressure on the spring. Turning the adjuster counter clockwise does just the opposite, reduces pressure on the spring. In operation, water flows from a high pressure region of the jet pump through a hose to supply water to the engine for cooling. This line has a TEE in it and also feeds water to the water regulator that feeds water into the tuned pipe. As pressure in the pump increases (at higher speeds) so does the pressure in the cooling water feed line and this pushes up on the piston in the water regulator. As the piston moves up against the spring pressure, less water is injected into the tuned pipe. So, increasing tension on the spring, or screwing the adjuster in increases the transition point at which less water is injected into the head pipe. Reducing the tension on the spring, or screwing the adjuster out decrease the transition point at which less water is injected into the head pipe. Also, at the base of the regulator where it attaches to the water box there is an orifice fitting that injects water into the water box at a fixed restriction and the amount of water injected is based on the water pressure in the cooling supply line. The water regulator itself doesn't affect the amount of water going into the water box.


In general, you want more water injected into the tuned pipe at lower speeds and less water at higher speeds. The water cools the exhaust gases making them more dense and changing the speed the sonic wave travels, essentially varying the tuning. The adjuster allows you to fine tune this process.

Water in the tuned pipe is also essential to cool the rubber coupler between the tuned pipe and the water box, without it, it will melt quickly.
 
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Thanks mate, Thats a good breakdown on the process and how it works. I hope that how i have it set at the moment is good but i'm going to be testing it later today so i should hopefully have some idea and a better update on how it go's.

Ps' this is a great forum and big ups to all those who take time to help others out.
 
Ok so I took it out today. It ran pretty good. better at higher rpm then lower but it sort of got better after a little riding. I adjusted the red screw on top four clicks in for higher pressure to see what it would do and it took off with a lot of stoke but then it completely stopped once i got speed up closer to top end. dead in the water. restarted reasonably ok, did this twice and then readjusted it back to what it says in the manual and it was running good as gold. I do feel a little weary about ski's vs reliability but time will tell also I've been riding 150mph road bikes most of my life so I'd say I'll be wanting a bigger faster before too long. Does go really good though.
 
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