Water flooded engine through the hose connector.

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Splodge

Splodge

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Hi I asked a question in another post querying a reply mikidymac had posted about why it is important to start your engine before running it on a hose then shutting it of before turning the engine off again, this is my first ski,
I previously had a boat so not really clue'd up on ski's, I got the reply to my message at 5am UK time off JeremyD615 thanks for the reply m8, So i got up n went and looked and guess what I've done, I had the hose on a couple of days ago to try and fix the leak I have from the valve on top of the exhaust box, it was totally full of water the engine.. No wonder it wouldn't turn over after I had changed the valve it must of been hydrolocked because when I tried to turn it over it just went clunk, clunk I thought my batt had died, i have just drained it out as best as I could n then cranked the motor to push it out of the cylinders till later today bearing in mind it was 5.30am, I'm so pissed with myself. What damage could I of potentially of done to it, where else could the water of got too...? Thanks.
ps: there was gallons of water in it..
Pic of the water it pumped out the spark plug holes in the head, most of the water I drained through the exhaust joint where it has the rubber connecting joint was clean water the stuff it pumped out of the head was dirty grey colour mixed with fuel, it has probably been sat like that for 7 days...
 

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Like I mentioned in the other thread, grab some fogging oil and go to town with it first. It’s not going to make it any easier to get started, but it will get some lubrication to the parts that have come in contact with water.

You’ve probably pulled water into the fuel pump through the pulse line, so you’ll want to pull the carbs and make sure they are clean and there is no water in the pulse side of the fuel pump. It is sealed, so there is no way for that water to get out once it’s in there.

There is potential for damage, but there are also quite a few skis that have been sunk that are brought back to life. Stay optimistic, there is a good chance that everything is okay... The key is to get everything lubricated as well as you can before you do too much cranking on the motor.
 
You've got to get it running ASAP to expel the remaining water from the crankcase. Cranking it over with spark plugs removed is just the 1st step of the journey. Follow their running instructions, they've been through this before many times. You'll need at least a spare set of spark plugs, maybe a couple pair.

Then once it's running, ride it in the water for at least 1/2 hour, longer is better, to "burn" remnants of water out. This is an rotary valve Rotax I believe, so water from the rear cylinder can get into the balance shaft bearing and it's difficult to remove without running the engine for some period of time, there may be an access plug for pulling any water out of the balance shaft area and refilling with oil, some had them and some didn't.

I don't normally run my Seadoo out of water for more than a minute just to discover if it's splash-worthy, thus don't need cooling water for that. The flush port is handy for reverse flushing in case sand/debris or salt water is trapped in the cooling system it can be flushed ONLY while the engine is running.

Anyway, good luck and keep at it! :)
 
JeremyD615 said:
You’ve probably pulled water into the fuel pump through the pulse line, so you’ll want to pull the carbs and make sure they are clean and there is no water in the pulse side of the fuel pump. It is sealed, so there is no way for that water to get out once it’s in there.
Click to expand...

FWIW, IMO this is lower priority than getting it running ASAP.
 
Water doesn't typically get into the fuel pump unless you keep trying to crank it with the engine full of water and the plugs in. It can happen but isn't an everytime thing.
 
Forget running it, yank the engine out and disasemble. Flush everything to expel the water, especially the crank bearings.

You can do what want and try to get it running and go ride and so forth, but this is what I'd do. Pull it....
 
Even if there is water behind the fuel pump diaphragm, it won't interfere with the pulse action, it will join the action. Eventually the small volume will dissipate and be drawn back into the crankcase and absorbed into the fuel whizzing through.

Interestingly, I seem to always find a couple of drops of water there in my 951, an indicator of moisture in the crankcase with no other symptoms. So not sure if it's normal for 951 or not, rather not find it there though.
 
I just remember that being the most frustrating thing when I was trying to get one of the Speedster motors fired up when I first got it. It had bad crank seals on one engine and had filled with oil. It seemed like no matter how much I drained out of the motor, some of that oil found its way through the pulse line into the pump. I must have had to pull it and get it cleared out half a dozen times before I got it fired up.
 
JeremyD615 said:
I just remember that being the most frustrating thing when I was trying to get one of the Speedster motors fired up when I first got it. It had bad crank seals on one engine and had filled with oil. It seemed like no matter how much I drained out of the motor, some of that oil found its way through the pulse line into the pump. I must have had to pull it and get it cleared out half a dozen times before I got it fired up.
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Interesting, do you recall if that was that a carb mounted fuel pump or divorced type? It would be more likely if divorced type due to the length and diameter of pulse tube and oil dampening.

Sometimes divorced pumps can benefit from replacing soft pulse tubing with stiffer tubing.
 
GGuillot said:
Forget running it, yank the engine out and disasemble. Flush everything to expel the water, especially the crank bearings.

You can do what want and try to get it running and go ride and so forth, but this is what I'd do. Pull it....
Click to expand...

If water has been sitting in it then yes, but if it's just a flooded engine there is no reason to tear it apart, just get it running and run it hard. I can't tell you how many standups I have seen flooded and still run for years, even is salt water.
 
mikidymac said:
If water has been sitting in it then yes, but if it's just a flooded engine there is no reason to tear it apart, just get it running and run it hard. I can't tell you how many standups I have seen flooded and still run for years, even is salt water.
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Wooha hold on there, it's very unusual to flood any ski engine! (LOL, kidding!) Once about five guys brought a ski into the shop and admitted all five of them were riding the single ski at the same time. It was a 4-stroke Yamaha and the motor oil was white as milk. They were back out riding (no longer 5 at once) a couple hours later.
 
mikidymac said:
If water has been sitting in it then yes, but if it's just a flooded engine there is no reason to tear it apart, just get it running and run it hard. I can't tell you how many standups I have seen flooded and still run for years, even is salt water.
Click to expand...

He's indicated a couple days, and he's got grey water crap pumping out the cylinder head that he thinks was like that for 7 days. Now water in the pulse line and who knows where else like the carbs.

Understand your point, but I'd pull it.
 
GGuillot said:
He's indicated a couple days, and he's got grey water crap pumping out the cylinder head that he thinks was like that for 7 days. Now water in the pulse line and who knows where else like the carbs.

Understand your point, but I'd pull it.
Click to expand...

Sorry, yes you are correct. Sitting that long I would be worried about the bearings already starting to rust also.
 
Hi it's me again thanks for all the advice.. Here's what's come out of the cylinders..
 

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How can i drain the oil from the engine without pulling it out ? or do i have no choice but to pull it out..?
I have said before i tried to run it but it would not turn over the engine it just made a clunk from the starter so as some of you say it will have water in the fuel will that still be so if it has not spun over the engine..?
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Interesting, do you recall if that was that a carb mounted fuel pump or divorced type? It would be more likely if divorced type due to the length and diameter of pulse tube and oil dampening.

Sometimes divorced pumps can benefit from replacing soft pulse tubing with stiffer tubing.
Click to expand...

It was a carb mounted pump on a 657X. It was really strange, but the crank seals were so far gone that there was no saving that one. I did get it fired up eventually, but it would refill overnight. That motor got used as a core for an SBT rebuild.

For the OP, when the motor is installed, cranking it without the plugs in is the quickest way to empty it out. If it still clunks without plugs installed, you’ve got some major problems and it’s going to need to be torn down and rebuilt.
 
Splodge said:
Hi it's me again thanks for all the advice.. Here's what's come out of the cylinders..
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Just oil and water. You need to be cranking it with the plugs out and sparkplug wires on their grounding posts. IF you put your thump over the holes when cranking it will help build pressure and get more of the water out.
 
Of course it won't crank with spark plugs installed, it's hydrolocked with water which doesn't compress in the cylinder. Follow directions provided, if you act quickly there's less chance of damage requiring teardown.

Tear it apart if you want, it will be necessary if you don't get the water out and running ASAP it will rust inside and the bearings will fail as a result.
 
JeremyD615 said:
For the OP, when the motor is installed, cranking it without the plugs in is the quickest way to empty it out. If it still clunks without plugs installed, you’ve got some major problems and it’s going to need to be torn down and rebuilt.
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Water in the cylinders doesn't compress, won't crank in this case.
mikidymac said:
Just oil and water. You need to be cranking it with the plugs out and sparkplug wires on their grounding posts. IF you put your thump over the holes when cranking it will help build pressure and get more of the water out.
Click to expand...

Follow this advice!
 
mikidymac said:
If water has been sitting in it then yes, but if it's just a flooded engine there is no reason to tear it apart, just get it running and run it hard. I can't tell you how many standups I have seen flooded and still run for years, even is salt water.
Click to expand...
Yup some odd reason a bypass to run my ski out of water fogged up on me and I had water in my ski's motor, ran it on and off till some brown oil/gunk sludge shot out the exhaust, just ran the same ski yesterday.

I just reused the same plugs but every 30 seconds I would take them out and use a lighter to burn contaminates off. Of course replacing them once you've resolved the issue helps.
 
Thanks all for your words of advice,

I have only had it about 1 month i bought it as a non runner with a broken throttle cable but it turned out the carbs were sticking, and it needed a starter rebuild which i have since done,
I have only run it once lol then i saw the pressure valve on the exhaust bottle was leaking so i fixed that then plugged the hose flush connector in to make sure it was no longer leaking and thats when i have filled it with water in my ignorance...DUH..:rolleyes::p

I drained most of it as i said previously out of the exhaust rubber connector last night, then i took the plugs out then grounded the sparkplug leads,
Then i turned it over numerous times in between letting the starter motor cool down,
I have sprayed the bores with a lubricant too, i then took the drain plug (allen bolt grub screw from under the PTO) see first attached ref pic and the oil is contamimated as in the pic i posted earlier,
It turns over really well with the plugs out, it still has good compression so nothing damaged through trying to crank it while hydrolocked,
I assume i have to flush the crank area/balance shaft area now a few times to make sure that i get all the water out..
I cannot get the plastic filler plug Ref pic 2 off to top it up without it chewing up so any ideas there..?

Also i will take the carbs off to check them i have only just rebuilt them 2 weeks ago with new oem carb kits off ebay too and set them up by following the carb rebuild thread off here...Duh...

I cannot take it anywhere to try and run it yet because the nearest place for me is miles away 100 mile round trip so that is out of the question right now,

And with all the cranking my batterys died now and wont damned take a charge...FFS

Oh yeah todays my birthday too lol...what a nice day spent with my head up my seadoo's backend lol..
 

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