Water flooded engine through the hose connector.

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Splodge said:
I cannot take it anywhere to try and run it yet because the nearest place for me is miles away 100 mile round trip so that is out of the question right now,
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You need heat running it immediately afterward to get the moisture removed after you drain or pump water out the cylinders. Time is not on your side, we're talking days at this point and days until you take it out. That crank doesn't like water or moisture on the bearings more than 24 hrs...just saying..

If I flooded it and couldn't get it to start within 24 hrs or knew I couldn't make the lake ride right away, I'd pull it, break it down, and address the wet bearings on that crankshaft.
 
You might consider pickling it, we do that all the time with sunken boats we can't get to right away. Basically it involves flooding engine again but using diesel fuel. Then it might be a big mess but if you can pump out the diesel same or similar you did with the water then refill it with diesel again to displace and soak up water (think of it as a diesel fuel flush).

Search for marine engine pickling.

This will get almost all of the residual water out, might just save it from rusting at all. be careful not to crank a completely flooded case if it's tough to turn by hand as the pressure created internally can blow out seals.

I'll let someone else advise on removing the (plastic?) fill plug, I'd probably drill a hole (heavy grease helps to catch filings) and use a screw extractor or drive a flat blade screwdriver into it but someone else might have a slicker idea like piercing it with a hot screwdriver.
 
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Use a coin and pliers on the plug but I just use a big flat blade screwdriver. Lightly tap it first.
 
I got it out with some skin and blood lol, :p I used a blunt wood chisel that fitted the slot just right...

It's funny you should say that about marine pickling i have been doing something similar to it all night but with light gear oil,
I had a couple of gallons of it so i have done it with that.
I have been turning it over continously with it in it and then dumping it out of it while also tilting the ski backwards and forwards on the trailer, then running it on the starter to distribute it round the engine crank casing's then drained out the excess, i also poured it in the filler plug turned it over on starter again and then drained that out too, i must of done it a good 10 times now it running out nearly clear gear oil now...we have to see about any moisture,

I have a borescope on order from china the cheapo android phone one's, It should be here soon i will stick that inside it if it turns up soon to have a good look then decide if i have to pull it out of the hull
I have not been able to start it right now as it is nightime here..so will have to wait till the morning to see if it will start, i have been thinking of disconnecting the drive and running the engine like that to get it hot at least then i wont burn my drive out will i what do you reckon would that be ok...

Thanks for your reply's i really appreciate your help.....
 
Sure. Oil flushing is great, good thinking. Diesel is cheap and will actually absorb water, FWIW. It's just a mess when it get everywhere, lol. Nice, I've been meaning to give the cheapo borescopes a go, no reason not to.

You could just spray the carbon seal of the drive shaft using water to cool it from inside the hull and carry the heat away, it's water cooled and lubricated, keep oil and grease away from the carbon piece if possible. Otherwise the seal overheats and might crack or heat damage the rubber bellows holding it in place.
 
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You will not get the internal engine parts hot enough running it on the hose to burn out all the water.

Just get it running then fog the crap out of it. That is the best you can do at this point without tearing it down.
 
Diesel is £5.40 a gallon £1.35 a liter here so roughly 7 dollars, light gear oil cheaper seeing as it was free..lol nothing in my hull will be rusting anytime soon except inside my damned engine hahaha..
I need a new carbon ring anyway too it has cracks in it and is looking pretty worn, i have a replacement one in the post..
 
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Hi again, quick question how do i drain the crank area of oil or fluid, the front part of the crank towards the flywheel be precise i have filled it with diesel and it will not drain through the drain plug, i think i'm going to pull the motor tomorrow as i was suggested in the first place..
 
That drain plug only drains the rear of the balancer cavity. To drain the crankcase where the rods are you have to either crank the engine with the plugs out or turn the engine on it's site with the intake down or the plug holes down. There are no drain plugs for the main part of the crankcase.

This is also why Sportster suggested diesel since it will pump out the plug holes easier than oil.
 
Thanks mikidymac that why i changed from light gear oil to diesel it wouldnt clear up the light oil compared to diesel..

Pics is of the gear oil and diesel mixed together, I am pulling the motor and will tip it all out the flush till it clean..
 

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You should be able to blow most of that out through the plug holes then get it fired with some premix down the carbs.

You really shouldn't have to go to the trouble of pulling the engine especially since you should align it afterwards with the alignment tool.
 
It's been a while now so if it's begun to rust inside, I don't see how you can recover it short of a rebuild. You might open it up and find no rust or run it and get lucky, hard to say at this point.

Weigh your options though, assess the risks, and proceed accordingly.
 
This was a good read. I just learned the hard way. Ski engine bay filled with saltwater from a leaking house and apparently worked its way into the engine. We could not get the ski to turn on after this. Towed it back, 24 hours later went to crank it ...boom starter got killed , motor already hydro locked and the starter couldn't turn it. Turned crank by hand to free it up and to add insult to injury my DESS key took a $hit on me and wont communicate with the computer. If I was to do it all over again my priority would be do any and everything possible to get the water out of crank and ski running ASAP instead of now spending another $1K on a SBT motor.
 
Splodge said:
Hi I asked a question in another post querying a reply mikidymac had posted about why it is important to start your engine before running it on a hose then shutting it of before turning the engine off again, this is my first ski,
I previously had a boat so not really clue'd up on ski's, I got the reply to my message at 5am UK time off JeremyD615 thanks for the reply m8, So i got up n went and looked and guess what I've done, I had the hose on a couple of days ago to try and fix the leak I have from the valve on top of the exhaust box, it was totally full of water the engine.. No wonder it wouldn't turn over after I had changed the valve it must of been hydrolocked because when I tried to turn it over it just went clunk, clunk I thought my batt had died, i have just drained it out as best as I could n then cranked the motor to push it out of the cylinders till later today bearing in mind it was 5.30am, I'm so pissed with myself. What damage could I of potentially of done to it, where else could the water of got too...? Thanks.
ps: there was gallons of water in it..
Pic of the water it pumped out the spark plug holes in the head, most of the water I drained through the exhaust joint where it has the rubber connecting joint was clean water the stuff it pumped out of the head was dirty grey colour mixed with fuel, it has probably been sat like that for 7 days...[/QUOTE
Click to expand...
Splodge said:
Hi I asked a question in another post querying a reply mikidymac had posted about why it is important to start your engine before running it on a hose then shutting it of before turning the engine off again, this is my first ski,
I previously had a boat so not really clue'd up on ski's, I got the reply to my message at 5am UK time off JeremyD615 thanks for the reply m8, So i got up n went and looked and guess what I've done, I had the hose on a couple of days ago to try and fix the leak I have from the valve on top of the exhaust box, it was totally full of water the engine.. No wonder it wouldn't turn over after I had changed the valve it must of been hydrolocked because when I tried to turn it over it just went clunk, clunk I thought my batt had died, i have just drained it out as best as I could n then cranked the motor to push it out of the cylinders till later today bearing in mind it was 5.30am, I'm so pissed with myself. What damage could I of potentially of done to it, where else could the water of got too...? Thanks.
ps: there was gallons of water in it..
Pic of the water it pumped out the spark plug holes in the head, most of the water I drained through the exhaust joint where it has the rubber connecting joint was clean water the stuff it pumped out of the head was dirty grey colour mixed with fuel, it has probably been sat like that for 7 days...
Click to expand...


Hi, the important thing is to start it up immediately. (it's never too late). Fortunately it's not a DI (electric metal roller vane fuel pumps can seize up ).On sunkin boats water can get into the carb fuel pump. I usually (with help), turn the ski side ways on the trailer, of course the trailer is secured to the hitch, a handle bar usually will balance the ski on one of the trail or bunks. (you may need to place spacer between the handle bar grip and the rail bunk).Then I ground the wires and turn it over till you see just a mist coming out of the cylinders. Make sure your battery is secure. It may drop out. Also make sure the fuel filler side is on the up side. Then rotate the ski back.

Then I usually spray wd40 (or some water displacer) into the cylinders and turn the motor over till the mist coming out seems to be a mixture of water and
displacer. At this point I go thru a cycle of spraying wd40 into the cylinders (plugs just hand tight because you are going to go thru this cycle quite a few times) each time pull the plugs and spray them with carb or brake cleaner. An air gun would help but not a necessity. Repeat till it wants to wants to run. Then tighten the plugs. Make sure your battery is fully charged. You will want maximum spark and cranking rpm. Make sure nothing is behind the exhaust as a lot of water trapped by the exhaust box baffles will escape after you get it running.

I have restarted skis on the beach using the side tip method and blowing the plugs as dry as possible using my mouth before I put them in. Then give it a trailer test, back it into the water. (secured), and start it up. If it's right it will want to push the town vehicle forward and not stall when you rev it. Now you can put it the water and GIVER to CLEAN it out. Hope this helps into addition to the other posts.
 
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Anytime you flood the engine with water, crank it over with the plugs out to remove most of the water. I then use a propane torch to dry and heat up the spark plug electrodes. Sometimes it takes a while to get the engine started so I repeat the process with the torch. Sometimes it will start easier with just one plug in. Once you get it running, run it on the hose for no more than 5 minutes while giving it full throttle blasts (don't hold it wide open). Remove the airbox and flame arrestor screen and fog the engine. Done.

Chester
 
Hi all thank's for all your help, I have not been able to touch it for a while, This happened to my neighbours house
Salford house fire: Nine people in hospital after dramatic rescue
I was one of the 3 men that saved them, I have not been too well since that happened through breathing the smoke and fumes while i was in the inferno so have not touched it since then, it has been sat full of diesel in my garage anyway so not been to worried about it, i am going to have a look at getting it running over the coming day's, i have some new plugs for it aswell so we have to see i will keep you informed how it goes, fingers crossed..
 
Thanks sportster much appreciated, there all good except for the elderly woman who has severely burnt legs and throat but she doing well, I have a chest infection so not been able to touch the ski but it no big deal, I got the endoscope and had a good look inside the crank area through the inlet ports everything is nice and shiny still.
 
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