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TPS reset in Maine

I've done many resets of the TPS. I've installed different computers without resetting the TPS with no issues. Is there something specific you are having a problem with?
 
I have a 2003 gti rfi. It was not running when I got it. The obvious problem then was a shredded rotary valve. Rebuilt motor and reinstalled. It runs but idles poorly and will stall if not giving throttle. On the water it acts the same way. If you can get it to rev up it will take off and go. Let it return to idle and it will stall out. Checked the rotary timing multiple times as well as a bunch of other stuff. Suspecting tps and would like to rule that out.
Fun fact, I am nearly positive this is the same ski that was discussed on this forum a few years back, which I think you may have offered some advice on back then: ***03 GTI LE RFI NO Start got spark, compression, fuel... WTH***
 
Did you set the idle for 1500 RPM on the water? Think about it a second. Most RFI idle setting is for 1500 on the water so when connected the TPI setting is pretty close on all the skis. I agree with ruling it out and setting it properly but that has never solved a problem for me. I've replaced computers, TPS, throttle bodies, and none of it really mattered. When it isn't running correctly there is a problem. Next time you take it out to the water remove the seat and touch all the electrical fittings and plugs as you ride the ski. I found a hot plug one time and after trouble shooting replaced the computer. I have spares so it is pretty cheap and easy for me to do a swap. I think the RFI is the most difficult ski to troubleshoot. I spent a lot of time camped out with my head in the engine compartment. LOL Check your grounds. Did you test the raves for holding pressure? If the raves are partially open the engine will not rev off idle.
 
Thanks for the reply. It really won’t idle on its own in or out of the water. I’ve tried disconnecting the raves to make sure they are shut but no change, I have another coil, swapped that and no change. I’ve ohmed out all the sensors listed in the manual, checked the grounds, checked voltage while running, made sure the rotary valve was set correctly and all the o rings in place around the cover, etc. do you think it’s worth putting a new tps on it and seeing if there is any difference? I still can’t find anyone local to zero it out. Thanks
 
Absolutely do not replace the TPS. Did you physically adjust the idle on the throttle body? TPS has nothing to do with idle speed. Idle speed is a hard stop on the throttle body, vertical screw (allen head) and they get frozen quite often because no one ever moves them.
 
Just a few ideas, sorry if they have already been mentioned or are irrelevant. When were injectors cleaned last? Injector cleaning fixed up MXZ 600 SDI for me that was running in one cylinder. Have you checked for good spark? Are those resistor plug boots? Are they original? Cracked? Or good ?
 
Fuel injectors serviced by fuel injector man. Good spark. Tried to set idle but it just won’t idle. If you hold the throttle open some it will stay running, but erratically. I will say that the tps resistance will change as you open the throttle as it should, at full closed it’s 1080 ohms
 
etemplet said:
Absolutely do not replace the TPS. Did you physically adjust the idle on the throttle body? TPS has nothing to do with idle speed. Idle speed is a hard stop on the throttle body, vertical screw (allen head) and they get frozen quite often because no one ever moves them.
Click to expand...
So here’s some new info, I tested the diodes on the rectifier and those tested ok. However, I disconnected the DC side and tested voltage while running. It fluctuates, but regularly about 15.5 volts. Too much? Bad rectifier/regulator?
Thanks
 
Those are pretty cheap to replace. No need to buy the superduper $100 upgrade rectifier. Stock is fine. I've always had to troubleshoot and eliminate/verify one thing at a time. You can unplug the rectifier and the ski will still run. There is also a small fuse that will prevent the battery from charging. You can do an AC voltage check which will verify the Mag is working as it should. Gotta get intimate with these things. Good Luck
 
etemplet said:
Those are pretty cheap to replace. No need to buy the superduper $100 upgrade rectifier. Stock is fine. I've always had to troubleshoot and eliminate/verify one thing at a time. You can unplug the rectifier and the ski will still run. There is also a small fuse that will prevent the battery from charging. You can do an AC voltage check which will verify the Mag is working as it should. Gotta get intimate with these things. Good Luck
Click to expand...
Rectifier is not here yet, but here is one more discovery. The voltage to the air pressure sensor is only 2.5V, manual says it should be 5V, what do you make of that? Thanks
 
Just to follow up on this a bit, the MPEM is only sending 2.5V to the air pressure sensor. I unplugged the sensor, started it and it runs, idles, and revs great. So here’s the question. Is it the sensor itself, or is it the MPEM?
Either way, it’s seems to run pretty well with it unplugged.
 
Hmmmmm... Did you check the resistance for the pressure sensor on the #4 plug? Make sure the wires are connected to the proper terminal.
 
I think the manual was wrong, the 5V was on the opposite terminal. I replaced the sensor and it runs great. Now I’m having the hard starting in the water problem, which seems common for the rfi skis. Not sure if that’s been figured out, but it sure is a lot of fun - once it starts that is….
 
DandyChiggins said:
I think the manual was wrong, the 5V was on the opposite terminal. I replaced the sensor and it runs great. Now I’m having the hard starting in the water problem, which seems common for the rfi skis. Not sure if that’s been figured out, but it sure is a lot of fun - once it starts that is….
Click to expand...
That's a first for me. LOL The ski should not be hard to start in the water. What's your idle RPM?
 
Out of the water about 3000, in the water probably 1800. Only thing I can think of is the extra resistance of the impeller drawing too much juice and causing a weak spark or perhaps something to do with the exhaust being in the water.
 
Sounds right regarding the numbers. I'm usually about 1400 or so on the idle in the water and 2800 out. I'd be checking some stuff. LOL How is your compression?
 
140 & 145, fuel pressure is good, I have 2 coils and have tried them both. Battery was taken out and load tested to 250 cca
Could something in the exhaust be preventing it from moving enough air on startup?
 
I'm not sure if there the RFI has a crossover line. Those things do separate internally and act like a balloon and block the exhaust gas passage but would be more pronounced at higher RPM. I'd take a good hard look at the Raves. If they are not closed all the way that will affect low end and might make it difficult to start.
 
Just to close the loop on this, I rechecked the rotary valve and though the timing was right, the clearance was too high. I carefully sanded down the flange until I measured 0.012”. Back to starting on first try and running 52 mph. Thanks guys
 
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