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The Next XP in the Fleet

SDC_MI

Member
So I did a terrible thing and created an account on Facebook for the sole purpose of trolling Marketplace. I have always been against social media and never had any desire to get involved. I used to be able to look around Marketplace without having an account but it was always annoying because it would continuously lock me out. Anytime I needed to actually communicate with someone I would have my wife contact the seller through her account.

Fast-forward to present time I now have an account and the freedom to constantly search for deals. I've already made multiple purchases, one of which is another 1996 XP. I found it locally for what I considered a good deal. Came with a trailer and was really clean. I bought it from a young gentleman who was really honest and straightforward. He had done work for an older gentleman who kept this ski in his garage and worked out a deal on it. Compression is right around 150 in each hole. It's in really great shape aside from the fact that it obviously spent time floating in the water when docked. VTS doesn't work which seems pretty standard on these and I've already repaired it on my other banana so I know the process. One of the best parts is that this one came with a nice trailer! Since I sold my GTX last year (Which I kinda regret) I haven't had a trailer to move my other XP or put it in the lake.

I had already ordered wear parts preemptively knowing that I planned to go through the whole pump. I figured regardless of condition I wanted to have a close-to-new starting point from that aspect. From outward appearances I didn't see anything that concerned me when purchasing the ski. We had already planned a trip up to the lake last weekend so I figured I would take it up and get a baseline before starting the updates. This would also give me a chance to uncover any other quirks I may need to tend to. I stopped in town first to fill it up at which point I forgot to replace the gas cap and lost that along the way. I had to borrow the cap from banana #1 in order to perform sea-trials. Luckily those are cheap, but how come none of them are every still connected by the chain?!

We dropped the ski in the lake and I fired it up and putzed around a bit to warm it up then drove in a couple circles but didn't go far since I was still wearing clothes and didn't have a lifejacket on. I came back to the dock and put my 15yr old on it. I told him this is our first trial so stay where I can see you. He jumped on and promptly sped off straight to the other side of the lake. At that point he turned left and drove off out of sight. I was frustrated and after what seemed like a long time waiting I started getting the Speedster ready to go out and look for him. Just before I left in the boat we saw him heading back in. When I questioned him he said it wouldn't turn. I said that was nonsense since I just rode it and it turned fine. Instead of checking anything I jumped on it and took off into the lake only to find he was correct. The steering cable had snapped right at the heim joint. Still being in my clothes and not feeling like jumping into the water I performed my best balancing act, using my right foot to reach back and steer the nozzle while driving and not tipping over. It was terrible but I made it back. If none of you have ever had to try this I suggest attempting to put your foot on the nozzle while trying to balance on an X4. It's not easy!

Fast forward, we came back home with it and last night I started pulling the jet drive. All went fairly OK other than struggling to slide the metal half of the carbon seal assembly forward and pulling everything out. The driveshaft had a slight amount of surface rust and was tacky like it had some grease so it didn't want to budge. Also there was a bit of rust holding the splines into the impeller. I didn't understand why I was having such a hard time pulling the jet pump off till I finally got it apart and found a rope wrapped around the driveshaft. I also realized that I forgot to disconnect the bailer hoses. Turns out everything definitely needed to be replaced. The carbon seal had deep grooves, the wear ring was disintegrating, and the impeller has damaged blades. All of which is not surprising to me and I knew it felt like it was cavitating when doing the initial trials. This might actually be why the kid wanted to sell the ski as it wasn't really performing great on the water even though it ran really well. I also found that the molded exhaust hose from the waterbox to the outlet has a crack. It must be multi-layered because the exhaust isn't leaking into the hull.

Here are some pictures. Overall, I still think I got a great deal and I'm looking forward to having fun on it. Maybe still this summer but next summer I will definitely have 2 bananas and a Speedster ripping around!


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Well I got some time to work on the ski today.

Things completed today:
  • Fuel float replacement
    • There was a weird fiber float in there. Never seen that before. Put the updated float in. Still nothing on the gauge. The troubleshooting continues
  • RAVE valves cleaned. Never seen any that bad.
  • Piles of silicone removed from Hull around jet. Are the bailer and water feed lines supposed to have a ton of silicone around them where they penetrate the hull? I'm thinking that seemed like a necessity but this one had gobs
  • Steering cable replaced
  • VTS fix (Via DEI window relay) installed. Found that the motor wires are cut down inside the housing. Replacement ordered. I need to research grinding threads so it doesn't bind. VTS boot was torn in half. Replacement installed
  • New grips on
  • VTS and Start/Stop button covers replaced
  • Impeller reshaped. Not perfect but good enough for this season
  • Vanes deburred and smoothed
  • I got the wrong wear ring. Correct one ordered. Dummy.
I still need to replace all fuel hose clamps. Non-stainless used and most are already rusted. I hate clamps because they don't provide even pressure and cut into the hose.

Looking at the exhaust hose Pic. It's spit open. Should I be concerned as to cause of this? Replacement ordered. Also please look at the corrosion. It's worse on this ski than any of my others. Does this mean it was used in saltwater? I can tell it sat in the water due to brown hull that I need to buff.

All-in-all a great day. I do enjoy working on these when I know I'm making great improvements.
 

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Ok so question for the greater group. The first XP I picked up the PO had pulled the line from the rear "pee hole" and added multiple "pissers" on the front port side of the hull. I like it because I can easily see the cooling system is working. I have half a mind to drill a hole in the hull of this XP to do the same. I have a REALLY hard time drilling a hole in a good hull. Do you guys think this is a bad idea? This ski is for personal use buy I'm always conscious of the impact of the value to the ski. It doesn't concern me but I think it could detract from the value of the ski in the future. Thoughts?
 
In my opinion it wouldn’t detract from the value at all, as long as you drill the hole in a location that’s not unusual, like just beneath the rub rail and drill same size so grommet can be used. I actually really like that idea so that, just like you say, you can easily see if it’s pissing
 
Burt - I feel like putting it below the rub rail would be hard to see. The previous owner of banana #1 put 4 anodized aluminum 90 degree nozzles on top of the hull where the identification numbers go. The more I think about it the more I'm certain I need to confirm all hose routing on that ski now.

I've got the jet drive back in. New wear ring, carbon seal, pto boot, etc. Got the VTS working with the DEI relay and a replacement motor. Magnet is rotted so no gauge atm. I still need to replace all hose clamps on fuel lines.

I was just looking at the oil pump (or is it just a valve?) and moving the throttle didn't move it. Well I quickly found out why. The cable is not connected to the carbs! It's just laying in the bottom of the hull! Quick research seems to have me believing it defaults to a safe max rich state with broken cable. Is this real? We only took it on one ride. But no idea how long the PO rode it like that. I'm really hoping the motor isn't hurt.
 
That’s correct, if the cable is off it’s pumping maximum oil
Is that the case with all Seadoo oil pumps? I have a 717 that ran with out the pump connected for a 30 minute ride. The crank went bad a couple of years later. I blamed my mishap with the oil cable for the failure.
 
Is that the case with all Seadoo oil pumps? I have a 717 that ran with out the pump connected for a 30 minute ride. The crank went bad a couple of years later. I blamed my mishap with the oil cable for the failure.
As far as I know, at least with the mikuni oil pumps. I wouldn’t want to say for any other brand or model
 
As far as I know, at least with the mikuni oil pumps. I wouldn’t want to say for any other brand or model
I think will test that the next time I prime an oil pump. I always hold the lever in wide open position, but it sounds like that is not necessary.
 
I think will test that the next time I prime an oil pump. I always hold the lever in wide open position, but it sounds like that is not necessary.
I always have the oil cable on when I’m priming the new oil lines so I too have to reach in and pull the lever but if the cable is off the pump then it’s my understanding that the oil pump is in full oiling position. Safety feature in case the cable were ever to break
 
I always have the oil cable on when I’m priming the new oil lines so I too have to reach in and pull the lever but if the cable is off the pump then it’s my understanding that the oil pump is in full oiling position. Safety feature in case the cable were ever to break
Do you prime with a drill in reverse or use the starter?
 
These skis are under no load at idle out of the water so they require basically no oil to be perfectly fine. As long as it isn't a fresh rebuilt engine there will be enough residual oil in the crankcase for engine lubrication. Whenever I prime an oil system I hold the oil pump lever wide open and start the ski and let it diel. You will see ie very quickly pumping oil into the lines and when it gets to the intake and starts smoking you are good to go. The engine idling at 3,000 rpm will prime much faster than a drill.
 
I do the same, I’ve always premixed the first half a tank after having stuff apart and then fill with straight gas once I’m sure everything is working fine but as Mikidymac said it’s not necessary. Question, would it still not be fine after a rebuild? I mean when I’m rebuilding everything is slathered with 2 stroke oil. I’ve actually never fully rebuilt a Seadoo engine but I’ve rebuilt 2 snowmobile engines, I slathered all moving components with 2 stroke oil while rebuilding, when I started them they smoked like crazy for the first 30 seconds or so, I mean crazy smoke lol. Is this ok? Or should I have primed the oil injection lines first? I should mention tank was premixed as well and I’m thinking of using engine assembly line next rebuild or should I stick with the 2 stroke oil?
 
These skis are under no load at idle out of the water so they require basically no oil to be perfectly fine. As long as it isn't a fresh rebuilt engine there will be enough residual oil in the crankcase for engine lubrication. Whenever I prime an oil system I hold the oil pump lever wide open and start the ski and let it diel. You will see ie very quickly pumping oil into the lines and when it gets to the intake and starts smoking you are good to go. The engine idling at 3,000 rpm will prime much faster than a drill.
That is good info. Do you agree that the pump broken cable default is max oil flow?
 
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