starting problem

[wlittle]

First of all, nice site. Ya'll have done good documenting and showing newbs like me some stuff to try before we ask questions.

Now for business,

I fiddle with the lanyard and I eventually get the *beep, beep*
I hit the start button and *click*
repeat roughly 30 times, sometime it'll turn the motor, sometimes you can here the solenoid not get enough power to move.

Jetski eventually starts and runs perfect, until you have to start it again...

What I found so far...
Placed a new starter, battery, and checked all connections to make sure they were solid.

Meter last night showed 5v coming off of the dess switch when the *beep, beep* happened. When it did crank, it takes 5v to keep the engine turning over...
When it did not crank I noticed that it was because I wasn't being supplied the full 5v. It would jump to 2.6 or so and then back down.

The guy I bought it from said that it had a bad battery and started it with a battery charger. (yes I am aware after reading this is a BIG no, no)

I also saw the mpem repair post and wondered if this was the symptoms that you all had in this situation?

oh and I bought this thing for 1800 with good upholstry and a clean hull with only two scratches that were easily filled.... though it has been a pain to work through I feel as though I should be able to get it running for under 500 so 2300 for a 2001 gti 720? Is that a good buy on these?

And yes, FTR I did buy it without riding it. Lesson learned:blush:. BUT, since I did that I saved $1200 cause the guy originally wanted 3000.....

Thanks for all of your help. I know this is alot.

 

[Bills86e]

Intermittant power, clean & di-electric grease Electrical

Do you know there is a 15 amp fuse in the coil box ? This is the main power supply wire to the front of the boat. That power goes to the MPEM, which has it's own set of fuses on it. Did you cover the bases and check all of the fuses ? When testing fuses, just looking at them and saying " they are fine" can get you into looking in the wrong places. Be sure power is coming off each side of the plugged-in fuse. It is possible to have a bad fuse holder, especially the ones in the coil boxes. Use a pointed test light on each side of the fuse. Main power fuses are 15 amp. The 5 amp fuse protects the MPEM, and the 7.5 amp fuse protects the system from the VTS. So, to get spark, you must have a good 5 amp and two good 15 amp fuses, plus all good grounds and connectors that make good contact, a working DESS switch, and the mag connector connected.
But none of this means much if the fuses on the mpem are bad, or you have bad connections or grounds.
A DESS switch has a 4 way connector up under the dash, if the terminals are corroded, or the switch is bad, the mpem never reads the lanyard code. This will block out the function of the starter switch to activate the solenoid in the coil box, as well as any spark from the now dead ignition. Bills86e

 

[wlittle]

Do you know there is a 15 amp fuse in the coil box ? This is the main power supply wire to the front of the boat. That power goes to the MPEM, which has it's own set of fuses on it. Did you cover the bases and check all of the fuses ? When testing fuses, just looking at them and saying " they are fine" can get you into looking in the wrong places. Be sure power is coming off each side of the plugged-in fuse. It is possible to have a bad fuse holder, especially the ones in the coil boxes. Use a pointed test light on each side of the fuse. Main power fuses are 15 amp. The 5 amp fuse protects the MPEM, and the 7.5 amp fuse protects the system from the VTS. So, to get spark, you must have a good 5 amp and two good 15 amp fuses, plus all good grounds and connectors that make good contact, a working DESS switch, and the mag connector connected.
But none of this means much if the fuses on the mpem are bad, or you have bad connections or grounds.
A DESS switch has a 4 way connector up under the dash, if the terminals are corroded, or the switch is bad, the mpem never reads the lanyard code. This will block out the function of the starter switch to activate the solenoid in the coil box, as well as any spark from the now dead ignition. Bills86e

Fuses have been checked but not their holders. I will be doing that today. I'm missing the 7.5 which probably isnt the best thing in the world and will be putting that in while Im testing the fuse holders.

I know that the dess system works because I have had it on the water twice for multiple hours each time, its just a pain starting it.

I took out the mpem and all connections and cleaned those (going to put them back in today) should I replace the regulator as well? Should I change the diode on the board since I know that the PO started it with a battery tender?

Thanks for all of your guys help and I hope that someone can help me out here considering my little issue has now confused the piss out of my electrician

 

[wlittle]

Do you know there is a 15 amp fuse in the coil box ? This is the main power supply wire to the front of the boat. That power goes to the MPEM, which has it's own set of fuses on it. Did you cover the bases and check all of the fuses ? When testing fuses, just looking at them and saying " they are fine" can get you into looking in the wrong places. Be sure power is coming off each side of the plugged-in fuse. It is possible to have a bad fuse holder, especially the ones in the coil boxes. Use a pointed test light on each side of the fuse. Main power fuses are 15 amp. The 5 amp fuse protects the MPEM, and the 7.5 amp fuse protects the system from the VTS. So, to get spark, you must have a good 5 amp and two good 15 amp fuses, plus all good grounds and connectors that make good contact, a working DESS switch, and the mag connector connected.
But none of this means much if the fuses on the mpem are bad, or you have bad connections or grounds.
A DESS switch has a 4 way connector up under the dash, if the terminals are corroded, or the switch is bad, the mpem never reads the lanyard code. This will block out the function of the starter switch to activate the solenoid in the coil box, as well as any spark from the now dead ignition. Bills86e

Fuses have been checked but not their holders. I will be doing that today. I'm missing the 7.5 which probably isnt the best thing in the world and will be putting that in while Im testing the fuse holders.

I know that the dess system works because I have had it on the water twice for multiple hours each time, its just a pain starting it.

I took out the mpem and all connections and cleaned those (going to put them back in today) should I replace the regulator as well? Should I change the diode on the board since I know that the PO started it with a battery tender?

Thanks for all of your guys help and I hope that someone can help me out here considering my little issue has now confused the piss out of my electrician

 

[Bills86e]

You could suprise & enlighten him by Haveing the Shop Manual handy for reading!
It has Great Pictures too! Right next to the Answers.

 

[wlittle]

sorry, double post

You could suprise & enlighten him by Haveing the Shop Manual handy for reading!
It has Great Pictures too! Right next to the Answers.

thats the problem... he's not really a PWC guy... he's more of an automotive. BUT either way the problem that he's having is he believes that the only option left is the mpem is bad or that I need to buy a new wiring kit and start over.

Both of these don't sound like much fun. He's gone through the wiring diagrams, checked from back to front and same answer

The problem that I have is that the guages work correctly and the dess works correctly, both of which I assume uses the mpem so can that be the issue? Is this thing even worth my time at this point or do I call it a bad purchase and sell?

 

[wlittle]

You could suprise & enlighten him by Haveing the Shop Manual handy for reading!
It has Great Pictures too! Right next to the Answers.

thats the problem... he's not really a PWC guy... he's more of an automotive. BUT either way the problem that he's having is he believes that the only option left is the mpem is bad or that I need to buy a new wiring kit and start over.

Both of these don't sound like much fun. He's gone through the wiring diagrams, checked from back to front and same answer

The problem that I have is that the guages work correctly and the dess works correctly, both of which I assume uses the mpem so can that be the issue? Is this thing even worth my time at this point or do I call it a bad purchase and sell? :willy_nilly:

 

[wlittle]

Bills youre a god!

I was checking the other members posts on here and ran across one that mentioned an issue quite similar to mine. After reading about the grounds you mentioned that there was one in the coil box. I traced it back and spliced and replaced the entire wire and waterproofed it. 5v all the way through now.

So basically, I guess its fair to say what I've learned here is...
The MPEM isn't dead if your gauges work and power gets to the starter
GROUNDS, GROUNDS, GROUNDS, check them once twice and a third time
Don't buy a part based off of sound (starter wasnt bad, $100 down the crapper)
get a good meter, you are going to need it for these things!