Starter removal process: 2004 GTI LE RFI (787-engine) - is there one ?

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I need to remove the starter motor from my 2004 GTI LE RFI
It is the 110hp, fuel-injected, 787 RFI-engine, I think.

I've tried to follow a procedure I found here, but it might not apply to my specific model.
It mentioned removal of a black negative cable from the starter that I didn't have (or haven't found).
I assume the starter gets a good ground from it's snug metal-to-metal bolting to the engine.

I disconnected the battery, then removed the air box cover & air box.
Then I removed the small nut & disconnected the RED positive cable from the starter.
I removed a 13mm self-locking nut, then....
With considerable difficulty, I did remove the 2 - 6mm allen-head bolts.

I don't think there are any other connections to the starter motor (or I don't see them).

The starter is loose & away from the engine, & I can move it a few inches rearward from it's mount.
But it seems trapped down there by engine supports & the exhaust manifold.

The procedure stated "Pull starter back & towards the right side of the hull and slide it to the back to pull it out".

Should I really be able to wiggle it out & free towards the back? I don't think so.

This is the procedure I found & tried to follow->

20151104_145258.jpgBut I just don't think it applies exactly to my specific model.
Look at my photo of the starter, located where I think the procedure author said it should be pulled out.
The space is too tight, too small to get the starter out through that hole.
That grayish engine mount - I don't think the starter will fit over or under it.

Can someone point me to a procedure that applies to my specific 2004 787-RFI-engine PWC ?
Or does someone know absolutely that the engine must be pulled? Or exhaust manifold must be removed?
Any insight specific to my PWC is greatly appreciated.
Man, I never knew they used engine mounts like that in the later RFI skis. What a bugger to get out. The procedure you posted in that other thread is for a carb'd ski not an RFI so the engine mounts are way different. Perhaps [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] has some trick up his sleeve on this one. I would rebuild the original starter or buy a good used OEM starter. Avoid an aftermarket starter all together unless you want to do this job twice.
Thanks Jammin777, I'll try that (pull the bracket) today. If it still doesn't squeeze through, I'll have to do the Minnetonka4me recommended approach (pull the exhaust pipe).
Exhaust pulled, now a couple starter questions

20151125_092508[1].jpgDid pull the exhaust pipe: 4 large allen-heads, a couple hex-heads, a couple water hoses & it came free. No fun, but do-able with the right tools. Then there was plenty of room to free the starter. Attached is a pic of the starter with a loose spring & metal collar. When visually comparing the replacement starter I'd ordered with what I'd just removed, it appears that the spring-loaded metal collar is retained by a cir-clip. It looks like my circlip failed to hold the spring-loaded collar on the shaft. I have 3 questions: (1) would the circlip failure account for the starter sounding like it was turning but not engaging the engine? (2) is this circlip something I can pickup at an automotive supply or Lowes, or need I ask a SeaDoo dealership? (3) any reason I can't reassemble the old starter with new circlip & assume its a perfectly good backup starter (aftermarket starter I think, can't find a brand on it, probably had 2 seasons & 50 hrs use)? Thanks again for your consideration in advance.
rave_water_valve1.jpgThe new starter is on, exhaust pipe re-bolted on. Next step is to install the new Rave water control valve onto the water box. The original water control valve had apparently gotten hot enough last outing to melt the plastic on the bottom where it threads onto the water box. The SeaDoo shop manual specifies Loctite 592 ti-temp pipe thread sealant on the valve-to-waterbox threads. I called around & couldn't find any, but was assured at Autozone that the Permatex 592 was equivalent. I read further about both, appear equivalent (temps ok up to 400F). I was surprised that instructions for both materials indicated NOT RECOMMENDED FOR USE ON PLASTICS AND RUBBER. The body of that Rave water valve is definitely some kind of plastic. I trust Seadoo, so I'll use it.

NO ALARMS: By the way, when I last took it out on the river, before the hull filled with water, it ran great for 10 minutes (like it always has). I never heard any audible alarms, or noticed any warning indicators in the instrument panel, before it began missing, idled roughly for a few seconds, died & wouldn't restart.

ASSUMPTIONS: I disassembled that melted Rave water valve, it appeared clean inside, no debris, nothing to pin the meltdown on. At this point, I assume something in the cooling system plumbing may have been clogged enough, that insufficient water was available to the water valve, so it melted at the waterbox until it failed, allowing water into the hull & ultimately, into the engine (or I did it to myself later in the driveway on the garden hose).

CONCERN: My motor did restart after originally getting the water out of the cylinders, but the starter motor failed shortly after, leading to the dis-assembly, new starter, & reassembly now. I've read that after having water in an engine, it's best to try to run it 30-60 minutes to be sure that the water is completely removed.

PLAN: Ultimately, I'd like to park it in the water at a boat launch ramp & let it run for 30-60 minutes strapped to the trailer, looking for leaking water, alert to alarms or meltdown issues. Today, complete full reassembly, restart the engine, THEN open the garden hose water valve & let it run for 5 minutes in the driveway.

How long can I safely let it idle in the driveway, on the garden hose, without risk of damage to something like the bearings in the pump? As always, feedback appreciated.
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