Spx accidental restoration
- Thread starter Zenedge
- Start date
- Status
Hey all,
I’m about finished with all the cleaning and painting and I’m about to tackle the crankcase rebuild. I’ll be honest, I’ve been around cars and bikes all my life but I’ve never really done anything as major as this and it’s scaring me a little.
Things like removing flywheel and PTO without the jugs in place to lock the crank and also I’m worried about the possibility of messing up one of the seals and wrecking everything.
Is there any big pointers before I start? Other than the flywheel/pto issue, Is it mostly unbolt carefully and replace as it came apart? Where can I get a list of torque specs and where should Loctite be used etc???
Confidence boosters are very welcome at this point lol.
I’m about finished with all the cleaning and painting and I’m about to tackle the crankcase rebuild. I’ll be honest, I’ve been around cars and bikes all my life but I’ve never really done anything as major as this and it’s scaring me a little.
Things like removing flywheel and PTO without the jugs in place to lock the crank and also I’m worried about the possibility of messing up one of the seals and wrecking everything.
Is there any big pointers before I start? Other than the flywheel/pto issue, Is it mostly unbolt carefully and replace as it came apart? Where can I get a list of torque specs and where should Loctite be used etc???
Confidence boosters are very welcome at this point lol.
I feel like I’ve bitten off more than I can chew here.
I’ve split the crankcase now but haven’t yet received my seal kit so not quite sure what I’m looking at. Outer seals are pretty obvious but I’m not sure about the inner seals. Are they the black and green ones that are sitting either side of the rotary valve gear in the centre of the crank shaft? If so, I can’t see how on earth these come out.
Also, there are 2 little seals on the PTO end of the counter balance shaft, same story with these, can’t see how to remove them.
I do apologise, I’ve looked through the manual but can’t figure this out. Can anybody advise???
I’ve split the crankcase now but haven’t yet received my seal kit so not quite sure what I’m looking at. Outer seals are pretty obvious but I’m not sure about the inner seals. Are they the black and green ones that are sitting either side of the rotary valve gear in the centre of the crank shaft? If so, I can’t see how on earth these come out.
Also, there are 2 little seals on the PTO end of the counter balance shaft, same story with these, can’t see how to remove them.
I do apologise, I’ve looked through the manual but can’t figure this out. Can anybody advise???
I take it that’s the same for the bearings in there too? There’s a little noise from one of them but it’s not bad. One of the outer bearings (PTO side) that’s really noisy and the PTO side bearing on the counterbalance shaft is noisy too but I’m sure I can cope replacing them. The rest are probably ok to reuse.
Is there any way of testing the seals before putting them back in or is it just a visual check?
Also, what about these two seals on the counterbalance, any way of replacing these?
Is there any way of testing the seals before putting them back in or is it just a visual check?
Also, what about these two seals on the counterbalance, any way of replacing these?
Sorry, last post just before I noticed your reply.
Does this mean I should be thinking about replacing crankshaft and balance shaft for the sake of new seals???
Attachments
You can't replace the inner crank seals yourself, you need to get a remanufactured crank.
If any bearings are noisy or suspect don't reuse them or you risk destroying the engine.
I was talking about the balancer: You would also need a strong press to do the balancer shaft seals as the counterweight has to be pressed on and off and is not keyed so proper marking and alignment is critical.
If any bearings are noisy or suspect don't reuse them or you risk destroying the engine.
I was talking about the balancer: You would also need a strong press to do the balancer shaft seals as the counterweight has to be pressed on and off and is not keyed so proper marking and alignment is critical.
From the rusted balancer shaft I can tell you your balancer and crank are ready to blow up. If it were mine I would replace both.
I can even see drops of water on the gear. That engine has had water in it and the bearings will go out and take the cases and everything else with them.
I can even see drops of water on the gear. That engine has had water in it and the bearings will go out and take the cases and everything else with them.
noviceskier
Active Member
While you're down in the depths I would advise replacing the ones you can. Pretty sure the inner black seals can't be replaced with handheld tools (picture from google)
noviceskier
Active Member
Bad outer seals = vacuum leak/lean condition, high idle, doesn't fall off rpm when blipping throttle.
Bad Inner seals = engine flooded with oil
I'm pretty sure.. lol
Oh man, this is turning into a massive regret. Really wishing I had walked away from this ski now
I’m at the point where I don’t know if I can keep throwing money at it but don’t think I’ll get anywhere near my cash back breaking it. I keep thinking it’s just a few more bits to buy, then something else pops up. Getting a bit down on it now.
I’m at the point where I don’t know if I can keep throwing money at it but don’t think I’ll get anywhere near my cash back breaking it. I keep thinking it’s just a few more bits to buy, then something else pops up. Getting a bit down on it now.
noviceskier
Active Member
That's with every project I'm sure we've all had buyers remorse at one point. I remember first opening up the hood on my hx wondering what I got myself in to. Now I'm close less than a month before it's maiden voyage, if everything goes right (probably wont.) That's just the nature of the beast.
I think what some members are trying to tell you is that, since you are already this far. Doing it right in the end will save you more time and labor rather than just getting by. It's possible you could just slap it together again but not really advisable.
Because factoring in the cost right now will be less than when it really goes kaboom.
I definitely get what you’re saying noviceskier and if I was advising anybody else, I’d be saying exactly the same thing, you’ve come this far so finish it properly.
I know It’d be a bigger waste of my time if put it back together the way it is, I’m pretty sure the inner seals are bad. I didn’t realise though, when the supplier told me the gasket set came with inner crankshaft seals that they weren’t changeable or I could have looked at my required parts list, decided to stop and part it out.
I know you always get unwanted surprises from a project but I’ve gone from expecting couple of hundred bucks to over a thousand already and now 2 new shafts require at another couple of hundred. I can’t justify this to Mrs Z, I’ll just need to do it quietly and hopefully sell it on as soon as it’s built and running, to try and recoup some of my money.
Thanks for the help so far though guys, I do know it’s good advice
I know It’d be a bigger waste of my time if put it back together the way it is, I’m pretty sure the inner seals are bad. I didn’t realise though, when the supplier told me the gasket set came with inner crankshaft seals that they weren’t changeable or I could have looked at my required parts list, decided to stop and part it out.
I know you always get unwanted surprises from a project but I’ve gone from expecting couple of hundred bucks to over a thousand already and now 2 new shafts require at another couple of hundred. I can’t justify this to Mrs Z, I’ll just need to do it quietly and hopefully sell it on as soon as it’s built and running, to try and recoup some of my money.
Thanks for the help so far though guys, I do know it’s good advice
If your plan is to get it back together and immediately sell, then I'd stop right now and sell it as is and cut losses (depending on where you are cost wise at this point). The reason is that you will typically have quite a bit more in it that what it will be worth running if you go to sell.
Most ppl like me buy non running skis like this to fix knowing that it will cost more than its worth, but then you have the peace of mind that it's been rebuilt and completely gone through so should give you years of trouble free service. I'd take that any day over paying 1500+ for a running ski you know no history on that could blow up next week.
Most ppl like me buy non running skis like this to fix knowing that it will cost more than its worth, but then you have the peace of mind that it's been rebuilt and completely gone through so should give you years of trouble free service. I'd take that any day over paying 1500+ for a running ski you know no history on that could blow up next week.
noviceskier
Active Member
It's a labor of love, definitely something someone who is going in blind shouldn't have that in mind completely (but some people do, and do it good too, but they've been doing it way longer than I've owned a ski.) But I've made some good money flipping cars. Just knowing how to play your cards right.
My plan wasn’t to sell straight away but I hadn’t factored quite as much outlay as this. My plan at the start was a starter and throttle cable and knew there would be more but didn’t expect, battery, carb kits, fuel lines, jugs, head, head cover, seal kit, 2 flywheel pullers, crankshaft, counterbalance shaft.
Thing is, there’s no point stopping and selling now... all I have here is a massive pile of bits and a paperweight where the crank should be.
I need to at least get it running or it just won’t sell for any more than a couple of hundred, and I’ve spent over a thousand on it in the past few weeks... I can’t let that much money slip through my fingers. Completing the project won’t get my money back but it will cut my losses.
Thing is, there’s no point stopping and selling now... all I have here is a massive pile of bits and a paperweight where the crank should be.
I need to at least get it running or it just won’t sell for any more than a couple of hundred, and I’ve spent over a thousand on it in the past few weeks... I can’t let that much money slip through my fingers. Completing the project won’t get my money back but it will cut my losses.
noviceskier
Active Member
Yeah totally, from the naked eye my hx looked like a virgin. Untouched by the PO. Until I cracked open the carbs to find the attempted rebuild.
Ending up having to take it to my shops mill after spending a bit of money on good bits and it turned out from being a disappointment (in my eyes.) But the advice I got from the forum helped me solve my issue and now I'm waiting for the two frisky bolts to come in!
Don’t get me wrong Ankeneyou, I think at the money I’ll have spent by the end, I’ll have a value for money ski, I don’t doubt that. I’ll be sitting on a ski with a freshly rebuilt engine for under 1500, with receipts, nice and clean and fresh in the bilge. I have everything I need to freshen up the hull too so I still think I can get my money back on it (or at least close). As bad as I’m feeling about it right now, I think the long term outlook is still ok, however it’s not the few hundred bucks, expendable toy I’d hoped it would be.
I was just being extremely naive when I bought the thing.
I was just being extremely naive when I bought the thing.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
It's usually at best a break even and rarely ever ahead when you sell. You won't regret it when you're out there on the water riding into the sunset. On my first ski I went from $200 to over $2000 and a full year to complete it. I over shot the budget, but cosmetics can get expensive and small things add up. Then I had to buy a bunch of life vests and lots of other things I didn't plan on. But now going into the second season and as a family we're enjoying the heck out of it. Excited about adding my second ski which I'm hoping to complete in the next month or so...then I need a double trailer.
You're actually in a better spot buying it really cheap and doing it right, you'll get years of trouble free riding afterward. To me it's better than initially spending over $1200 - $1500 for a running ski where you don't know if it'll be running or not the next week, sellers lie.... Plenty of stories where someone did just that and ending up spending $1500 + another $500 - $1000 in no time.
Whenever you get a bit down about the money you're spending just stop and visit the local dealer and look at new ones, it'll make you feel better......guaranteed.
Haha, that’s absolutely true... I suppose I should take Mrs Z to the dealers and just point at a price tag.
On the plus side, we already have this lovely little 2007 searay bowrider for the family days out, so we already have the wetsuits, life vests etc... at least we can save a bit there lol. Ok, I’ve had my moment, time for me to shut up and get on with it now.
Last edited:
- Status
