thanks, was thinking there was only 1idle speed screw,i did set hight and low speed jets to specs on both carbs but after i bolted it all up and started it, could only see the 1
idle speed screw, and as one does on their first project, began to wonder......lots of things not easy to see on a ski! but the more i do the more familiar i get thanks to you guys! i do appreciate the help and advice. got any advice on the oem tach not working? fuel guage doesn't work either....possibly my next project.
thanks again
will i ever get used to working on things looking in a mirror??????
About the 1000th time you'll find less need for a mirror but keep one handy b/c there's some stuff that can't be done without one.
The fuel gauge issue could be the fuel tank baffle. To test the gauge you can eliminate the baffle by disconnecting the 2-wire connector at the baffle and jump the gauge side with a paperclip wire. Press the start switch with the lanyard removed and the gauge should move to "F" full scale. If not, the gauge may be defective but if the gauge does go full then suspect the tiny chip fuse inside the baffle, or the magnetic float has fallen out of the bottom of baffle. Sometimes the float can be full of fuel and won't rise with fuel level.
For the tachometer, I'm guessing the gauge is bad. Maybe the fuel gauge as well. Once water gets into these (mainly from sitting outdoors in weather) the movement corrodes and becomes stuck.
But make sure to check the connections, sometimes they can be lose or corroded. Also check for 12V power and make sure the ground wire is good back to the battery negative terminal. I often just use a handheld trailer test light (mine has a small light bulb inside) for these tests, you can connect it to battery negative or positive and wherever you need to set up your test.
On those carbs, don't forget to check your oil injection pump is correctly adjusted, there's a cable operated lever on the oil injection pump that should move as you squeeze the throttle, with a rotary spring that moves the lever back to the idle position as you release the throttle lever. The oil injection is a nice feature and is dead-reliable when it's in good condition and set up properly, you can skip this of course if you're pre-mixing the fuel but IMO the oil injection is well worth keeping considering the little bit of effort needed to keep it working.
Some other things to look for are the tubing nipples pressed into the oil injection pump can become lose and begin leaking, the small 3/32" Tygon F-4040-A tubing will eventually rot thus should be replaced, and the bleed screw is easy to break off if you tighten it too much.
Hmm what else.... Oh yeah, the engine is much more likely to run great on the trailer but won't even start in the water, so don't take the entire family with tents sleeping bags and coolers to the ramp 1st time with an expectation the 1st time out will be trouble-free.
Check your cylinder compression if you haven't yet, poor cylinder compression can steal the show.
Always use good fresh and clean fuel, I drain my fuel tank bone dry in winter so there's no chance of skunky stale fuel roating a piston or sticking a ring and I can spend the extra few $$ on fuel as opposed to stabil.
92rslt1, glad it didn't punch customized vent-windows in your case, esp the 951 and 787 can become runaway children..... sometimes an empty fuel tank is the root cause...
