Shift/Throttle control replacement 2012 230SP

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

JK230SP

Member
I recently had the shift handle on my 2012 230 SP snap off in my hand. Upon removing the trim, I discovered that the vertical lever broke just below where it inserts into the horizontal handle. Since it is a cast part, there is really no way to repair it.....and because there is no source to buy the shift lever by itself, I ended up buying a complete shift/throttle assembly for around $700. Such is the pain of owning a discontinued, 9 year old boat. Besides, I am betting that replacing the entire assembly is infinately less difficult than pulling the entire assembly apart to just replace the shift lever.

I was debating if I should wait until my year-end maintenance trip to the dealership to have the shop replace the assembly (duct tape is keeping me in business during the boat season), or if this was easy enough for a non-certified mechanic (me) to do while the boat is still on the lift here at the lake. I don't want to screw up any of the linkages, cables or lengths and therefore create more problems than I can correct. I have found nothing online regarding how to do the swap-out, or how much disassembly will be involved to gain proper access to everything involved underneath the right hand console. It would be my luck that I would lose contact with a cable somewhere into the hull, and then I wouldn't be able to get the boat onto the trailer...

Does anyone have any experience with this exact assembly? Instructions/diagrams/advice? Attached is a picture of the new assembly.

Many thanks to the people here with more experience and smarts than I have....

JK230SP

Shift and Throttle Assembly.jpg
 
Not sure if you replaced this yet but i have taken mine out a month ago to diagnose some hard engagement. My shift seemed stiff as hell. So i replaced the cable and obviously had to remove this assembly to do so. On the back side of where the Zip tie is there is a ridge where the cable will fit into. You should be able to set the length exactly like it is on the current shifter very simple and easy. 99% chance you wont have to adjust anything. Just pull the pin and make note on which one of the 3 holes it drops into up top. Align the cables ridge into the SS clamp area and your done. Removing this part is just taking the plastic cover off with 4 screws, then the 4 hex below. I had 1 hex that was stuck and had to use an Easy out.
 
Not sure if you replaced this yet but i have taken mine out a month ago to diagnose some hard engagement. My shift seemed stiff as hell. So i replaced the cable and obviously had to remove this assembly to do so. On the back side of where the Zip tie is there is a ridge where the cable will fit into. You should be able to set the length exactly like it is on the current shifter very simple and easy. 99% chance you wont have to adjust anything. Just pull the pin and make note on which one of the 3 holes it drops into up top. Align the cables ridge into the SS clamp area and your done. Removing this part is just taking the plastic cover off with 4 screws, then the 4 hex below. I had 1 hex that was stuck and had to use an Easy out.
That is awesome news. I was holding off hoping someone would tell me what I was getting into. I'll pull the covers off today and get this going.

The only other question I have is regarding the clearance to get to the fasteners below. It looks like the assembly must fasten to a plate that is pretty deep into the hull. Once I remove the face plate, should I be worried about the clearance required (arm reach) to remove the lower end fasteners, both cables and electrical sensor connection?

Thanks so much for your response. I had started to think that this question might go unanswered.

JK
 
That is awesome news. I was holding off hoping someone would tell me what I was getting into. I'll pull the covers off today and get this going.

The only other question I have is regarding the clearance to get to the fasteners below. It looks like the assembly must fasten to a plate that is pretty deep into the hull. Once I remove the face plate, should I be worried about the clearance required (arm reach) to remove the lower end fasteners, both cables and electrical sensor connection?

Thanks so much for your response. I had started to think that this question might go unanswered.

JK
Not at all. Don’t be worried. Your going to remove the top cover, expose 4 more hex bolts. Remove them and the entire assembly will pull up enough for you to detach the cable then the sensor connector. You won’t be able to pull it out the entire way but a good 12”. Then you can drop the cable and you should have enough arm length to reach back in the hole and grab it to put the new one on. Could I pay for shipping on your old one to me in NY, 12019 area code. I have a 08 and it’s a different look. I like the newer look much better! I want to see if that will drop in my helm before I spend the money to buy new.
 
I can certainly send it to you, but considering the shift control is broken off just below the handle, would you really want it? You would have to disassemble the unit and replace the shift
lever with your old one. It is held together with duct tape currently as the recessed handle will seat the lever, but the break cannot be fixed. Also, the plastic side panel to the casing around the lever has been missing since I bought the boat.

How about I post a few pics of the old one before I ship it?
 
I can certainly send it to you, but considering the shift control is broken off just below the handle, would you really want it? You would have to disassemble the unit and replace the shift
lever with your old one. It is held together with duct tape currently as the recessed handle will seat the lever, but the break cannot be fixed. Also, the plastic side panel to the casing around the lever has been missing since I bought the boat.

How about I post a few pics of the old one before I ship it?
I still would like it. I am just interested in trying it for fitment and to compare with my current one. If it fits I plan to chuck it and buy the unit new
 
I still would like it. I am just interested in trying it for fitment and to compare with my current one. If it fits I plan to chuck it and buy the unit new
Deal. I think I should have it out in the next day or so, and plan on being in Dallas early next week to ship it out. Just need an address to send it!
 
Nice! Ive often wondered if that two-lever assembly could replace the single-lever on my 210 Challenger. I’m not a fan of the single lever.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top