Shift Forward

[tvnpe]

Hi Guys,

I have a 98 Challenger 1800, I can shift to reverse very easy but it is very difficult and I have to push very hard to shift to forward position. If any of you have experience this problem before or know what problem is please help me fix it before I break the the cable, thanks.

Tuan

 

[Wezz]

I was having the same problem and found that the cable cover was broke.

 

[tvnpe]

Hi,

Did you ended up replacing the cable?

Also, I try to remove the shifter/throttle assembly but I could not take the 4 hex screws out. It is loctite I think, what size hex do you need to use? thanks.

Tuan

 

[Wezz]

Yes I did replace the cable, it took me about one hour, it was not a hard job. You could unhook the cable from the reverse gate and see if it moves freely.

 

[seadoosnipe]

Adjustment?....

This sounds like your neutral safety needs adjustment. The throttle has to be all the way in the idle position for the boat to be able to shift to forward. The throttle lever also has a lock on it that allows you to have no more than 3000 rpm while in neutral.

The problem your having isn't stiff linkage, it's out of adjustment linkage.

 

[tvnpe]

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your advice, I will try your suggestion and do the adjustment lubrication and see how it turn out and let you know, again thanks.

Tuan

 

[txrevolution]

I too am having a hard time shifting my 2003 Sportster, but in either direction forward and reverse. tried to take the cover off too but stopped at the hex head screws also. Any suggestions?

 

[seadoosnipe]

Controls....?

These control handles they put in our boats are not super sophisticated but they are designed with safety in mind, to keep us from starting the engine, while in gear. This keeps us from throwing somone overboard.

The system is set up so that the gear lever has to be in neutral. There is a neutral switch that has a simple plunger type mechanism that pops into a slot when in neutral, allowing the motor to be started. Now, with the motor started and in neutral, there is another safety device that keeps us from using the throttle if you are not in gear. So, while on the trailer flushing, you have to put it in forward if you want to increase rpm.

This same safety feature is what makes it stiff while shifting. What happens is, when this locking lever is engaged and you do not know about it's purpose, you'll push hard trying to get into gear and bend this lever. Then, no matter how you shift it, it'll always ge hard.

I suggest you remove the entire control handle assembly and look over the metal levers and mechanisms to see which ones are bent and not lined up properly. Use the parts link above, on the right side of the screen to access the exploded view so you know what it is suppose to look like........:cheers:

 

[dbwilson]

These control handles they put in our boats are not super sophisticated but they are designed with safety in mind, to keep us from starting the engine, while in gear. This keeps us from throwing somone overboard.

The system is set up so that the gear lever has to be in neutral. There is a neutral switch that has a simple plunger type mechanism that pops into a slot when in neutral, allowing the motor to be started. Now, with the motor started and in neutral, there is another safety device that keeps us from using the throttle if you are not in gear. So, while on the trailer flushing, you have to put it in forward if you want to increase rpm.

This same safety feature is what makes it stiff while shifting. What happens is, when this locking lever is engaged and you do not know about it's purpose, you'll push hard trying to get into gear and bend this lever. Then, no matter how you shift it, it'll always ge hard.

I suggest you remove the entire control handle assembly and look over the metal levers and mechanisms to see which ones are bent and not lined up properly. Use the parts link above, on the right side of the screen to access the exploded view so you know what it is suppose to look like........:cheers:

Hey Sniper, I have a similar but different problem. I removed the cable from the reverse gate and it's quite free, but the reverse gate is the culprit and kinda difficult to set to forward. Anything to do for this?

 

[roneagan@cfl.rr.com]

Check the latch that locks the gate in place when in forward.. If you look on the right side of the pump (from the back) you will see where the cable connects to a plastic pawl, with a metal lever that locks in forward positions.. Just be sure everything is free and it easily un-latches when the trottle is moveg to netural/reverse.. You may need to disconnect the cable where it attaches to the boot and turn the adjutment nut to make tha cable in effect a little longer for a cleaner release. I found this out the hard way by bending the cable at the controls when it hung up and bent!!! I paid around 140.00 for a new cable..

 

[dbwilson]

1998 Speedster

Check the latch that locks the gate in place when in forward.. If you look on the right side of the pump (from the back) you will see where the cable connects to a plastic pawl, with a metal lever that locks in forward positions.. Just be sure everything is free and it easily un-latches when the trottle is moveg to netural/reverse.. You may need to disconnect the cable where it attaches to the boot and turn the adjutment nut to make tha cable in effect a little longer for a cleaner release. I found this out the hard way by bending the cable at the controls when it hung up and bent!!! I paid around 140.00 for a new cable..

Something doesn't sound the same. My forward cable is on the left looking at the jet outlet, and the one on the right pushes the reverse gate down. Neither have adjustments. The gate also does not click on the forward fully you have to puch it up a 1/2 inch to make it click. I assume the water flowing does this in the water.

I'll look to see whather there are some adjustments in the engine compartment. You really have to strong arm the thing into forward and then it just lightly falls into reverse.

 

[dbwilson]

Still shifter trouble

Something doesn't sound the same. My forward cable is on the left looking at the jet outlet, and the one on the right pushes the reverse gate down. Neither have adjustments. The gate also does not click on the forward fully you have to puch it up a 1/2 inch to make it click. I assume the water flowing does this in the water.

I'll look to see whather there are some adjustments in the engine compartment. You really have to strong arm the thing into forward and then it just lightly falls into reverse.

So I have had some intersting days in the last 7 or so. I tried to get things rolling for a family reunion on the lake and ended up bringing the tools with me just in case, still having the shifter problem, and will take up Snipe's suggestion of looking for bent linkages in the controls.

Ended up breaking the supporting mechanism and make-shifting a repair from aluminum channel. Works ok, but will still have to find root problem. Shifter is loose when gates disconnected, and gates seem to move freely, so I think it's the combination of when gates are attached the friction of "something" kicks in and makes forward shifting tough. Oddly enough, if I shift with one engine shut off, it's no problem, so I have a work around for now. I think that might be a clue as well, that the water pressure against (either) gate is enough to add the friction to shifting.

So anyway, another neat finding: (this is meant as no endorsement, only my experience):

Starboard carb was gunked badly. I changed internal carb filter in the city. Worked well. Port carb seemed ok for the moment. On the lake the Port carb was obviously just as gunked and I used Seafoam as directed to clear the gunk. I knew it was a toss up, but thought I would try it first. Dumped into fuel line and drew about three (8 ") lines of Seafoam into carb. Then stalled it so it wouldn't start. Then I left it two hours and came back. Wouldn't fire at all. So I gave up and tore it down.

Looked everywhere for gunk and varnish. NONE! The Port carb was clean as a whistle. Now remember, I tore the Starb carb down and found a ton of varnish in both filters and behind the diaphram. The second was clean. Neither carb had ever been opened (in 11 years). So I slapped it back on and still had the same problem. Maybe the Seafoam had fouled the plugs? R&R'd the plugs with new ones, and wham! Started right up.

OK, so...I don't want to make a statement like Seafoam did the trick or that this was proof, because that carb could have been clear to begin with..but then why the same restriction problem in the beginning? And would these carbs not have looked similar for contamination after 11 years? Interesting experiment. I would try Seafoam again before peeling down the carb, but would carry extra plugs as they get fouled something awful. Easier that carb R&clean. (also Seafoam works excellent for a cleaning agent for most anything on the engine).

Any further suggestions on the shifter would be appreciated, I can't get at the underside for a few days, only at the shifter.

Cheers! Don

 

[rlansing]

I have a 95 speedster with the same problem I no it is stiff going to forward but not sure about reverse. Would it be the same problem as with the newer ones? (in the linkage??)