Shes out.....

[offgrididaho]

So arthritis and bad weather be darned, I got it out. The hoist I have for my outboard motor removal made it easy. The purple short straps came from Chinese Harbor Freight.

Whoever pulled the motor last made numerous mistakes.
Tailcone muffler bolt not installed
1 carb bolt loose and falling out (it only has 2)
Both rave valves leaking black trails down motor at gasket or valve.
NO O-rings on head stud bolts.
No clamp on shaft to pto black rubber grease cup/cover.
Airbox laying in bottom of hull.
Leaking 3/32 oil line.
No clamp large intake oil line
Other bolts not tight here and there.

Question:

Where can I get the tool to get the mag off? Anyone have a part number?
I ordered the special hoses for the oil lines.
What type of lines for fuel water?
Where to buy carb rebuild kits?
Where to buy upper rebuild kit and lower gasket kit?
Which pistons do I want for the 951-carb 2000 year model?
Do I have the cases aluminum blasted?
What paint is best for the cases? I would like to use a blue metal-flake clear or silver speckled.

Any other suggestions?

 

[tobytd]

Sea-Doo flywheel, puller… Amazon, eBay
Carb kits should only be Genuine Mikuni.
Be sure to read, Mikidymac’s carburetor rebuild, sticky at the front of the two-stroke section.
A 951 with 200 to 250+ hours is going to need a crank shaft / balance shaft rebuild… seals..etc
In addition to your new pistons and fresh bore, so on and so on.
Wise guy on here says “ do it once do it right !”

 

[offgrididaho]

Sea-Doo flywheel, puller… Amazon, eBay
Carb kits should only be Genuine Mikuni.
Be sure to read, Mikidymac’s carburetor rebuild, sticky at the front of the two-stroke section.
A 951 with 200 to 250+ hours is going to need a crank shaft / balance shaft rebuild… seals..etc
In addition to your new pistons and fresh bore, so on and so on.
Wise guy on here says “ do it once do it right !”

Yeah I have a place to do the crank. I have never seen anyone talk about doing the balance shaft. Even the crank shop didnt ask me about it when I talked to him. I will ask again. So for the mag puller where do I get that tool that threads on the end? The pto is easy with a flywheel puller but the mag is a special tool. I also need a blind hole puller for the starter bearing. I am going to have the cases blasted so I need to replace that starter bearing, bendex and should I also replace the starter or rebuild it?

 

[tobytd]

Rebuild your OEM starter. Replace the brushes, clean the Commutator and lube.
Aftermarket Chinese starters are junk.
eBay and Amazon will have rebuild kits

 

[offgrididaho]

Rebuild your OEM starter. Replace the brushes, clean the Commutator and lube.
Aftermarket Chinese starters are junk.
eBay and Amazon will have rebuild kits

Rodger that.... Crank shop said to send in balance shaft as well. He said same thing about starter you did. Manual say to use loctite 518 for crankshaft case split reassembly. Do you also replace the bendex or rebuild? What about the bendex bearing in the case? Replace that?
Can I get the cases aluminum powder blasted to take off old paint or skip it? So many tiny little details that have to be exactly correct!

 

[tobytd]

Crankcase half’s ..reassembled with Yamabond
Don’t know if bendix is ‘rebuild able’ was it ok before?
Needle bearing in case needs protection when blasting cases…

 

[offgrididaho]

Crankcase half’s ..reassembled with Yamabond
Don’t know if bendix is ‘rebuild able’ was it ok before?
Needle bearing in case needs protection when blasting cases…

"Negative Ghost Rider the pattern is full"

This is from the service manual.

Crankcase
Crankcase halves are factory matched and there-
fore, are not interchangeable or available as single
halves.
947 Carburetor-Equipped Engines
Prior to joining crankcase halves, apply a light coat
of Loctite 518 on mating surfaces. Do not apply in
excess as it will spread out inside crankcase.
NOTE: On aluminum material it is recommended
to use Loctite Primer N to reduce curing time and
increase gap filling capability. Refer to manufactur-
er’s instructions.

 

[Loganab13]

"Negative Ghost Rider the pattern is full"

This is from the service manual.

Crankcase
Crankcase halves are factory matched and there-
fore, are not interchangeable or available as single
halves.
947 Carburetor-Equipped Engines
Prior to joining crankcase halves, apply a light coat
of Loctite 518 on mating surfaces. Do not apply in
excess as it will spread out inside crankcase.
NOTE: On aluminum material it is recommended
to use Loctite Primer N to reduce curing time and
increase gap filling capability. Refer to manufactur-
er’s instructions.

Stick with Yamabond or equivalent. Don’t use 518 as specified in the manual.

 

[K20017]

Question:

What type of lines for fuel water?

I have used the 12, 8, and 6mm hoses from OSDParts.com. Fuel line I used regular black hose.

 

[offgrididaho]

Stick with Yamabond or equivalent. Don’t use 518 as specified in the manual.

Do I have to worry about drying time while applying to surfaces and clogging up anything inside if it squishes out?
AI said use Y4 or 518 on machined to match surfaces. What did Seadoo use originally back in 2000?

From AI
518 or yamaha bond 2000 gtx engine case split surface manual say use 518 rebuilders say use yamaha bond


For a 2000 Yamaha GTX engine (947/951 Rotax) or a similar 2000-era Yamaha engine, you can use either
Loctite 518
or
Yamabond 4
(specifically
Yamabond 4, not 5), as both are designed for rigid, machined aluminum flanges without a gasket
.

The choice often comes down to personal preference or specific assembly needs:

Loctite 518 (Anaerobic Gasket Maker)

• Best for Aluminum: Loctite specifically recommends
  518
  for aluminum flanges.
• Cure Type: It only cures in the absence of air (anaerobic).
• Safety Advantage: Any excess that "squeezes" into the engine interior stays liquid and dissolves harmlessly into the oil, preventing clogged oil passages.
• Ease of Disassembly: It creates a bond similar to "weak glue," making future case splitting easier than some silicone-based sealants.

Yamabond 4
(Semi-Drying Liquid Gasket)

• Manufacturer Standard: Many Yamaha service manuals and professional rebuilders specify
  Yamabond #4
  because it is what the engine was originally designed with.
• Pliability: It remains semi-pliable and flexible when cured, allowing it to better handle engine vibration and minor thermal expansion.
• Proven Reliability: It is a staple in motorcycle and PWC engine building for its excellent adhesion and fuel resistance.

Which Should You Use?

• Use
  Loctite 518
  if you are worried about excess sealant clogging your oil passages or if your manual specifically calls for an "anaerobic" sealant.
• Use
  Yamabond 4
  if you want to follow the rebuilder's standard and prefer a sealant that stays flexible to handle high-vibration environments.

Crucial Note: Ensure surfaces are spotlessly clean (use acetone or alcohol) and apply a very thin, even layer. Never use standard "RTV" silicone (like red or black) for case halves, as it can be too thick and alter critical bearing tolerances.

Would you like the specific torque sequence for those engine case bolts to ensure a proper seal?

 

[K20017]

Use 518, it's in the Seadoo manual. That's what came with it from the factory.

 

[offgrididaho]

Use 518, it's in the Seadoo manual. That's what came with it from the factory.

I asked AI about that. My local engine builder here uses ThreeBond 1211.

For the 2000 Sea-Doo GTX (featuring the Rotax 947/951 engine), the original factory service manual originally specified
Loctite 518
as the anaerobic gasket maker for the crankcase halves.
YouTube +1
However, Sea-Doo/BRP later updated their recommendations, and many professional rebuilders shifted to alternative sealants due to better performance in high-vibration marine environments:

Factory & Professional Evolution

• Original OEM Spec (Late 90s/2000):
  Loctite 518
  was the standard anaerobic sealant used on the machined aluminum flanges of these Rotax engines.
• Updated OEM Spec: Over time, BRP/Sea-Doo transitioned to recommending
  Loctite 5910
  (a high-performance RTV silicone) for these cases, as it offers better tolerance for micro-movements and vibration.
• Rebuilder's Favorite: Many specialists prefer
  ThreeBond 1211
  or
  Yamabond 4
  . These are semi-drying liquid gaskets that remain slightly flexible, providing a more resilient seal against the "case flex" common in the 951 engines.
  Facebook +3

Application Standards
Regardless of which sealant you choose, the method is critical for this specific engine:

• Surface Preparation: Surfaces must be perfectly clean. Use a solvent like acetone or lacquer thinner to remove all traces of oil before application.
• "Dab" Method: Apply a very thin, translucent layer. Rebuilders recommend using a finger to dab and smear the sealant so it is nearly see-through.
• Avoid Excess: Excessive sealant (especially RTV) can squeeze into the crankcase, potentially blocking oil passages or interfering with bearing "crush" tolerances.
  YouTube +4

 

[offgrididaho]

I then asked AI what is the current sealant used.


what is the current sealant in the 2025 seadoo crankcase halves

For
2025 Sea-Doo models, the current factory-recommended sealant for crankcase halves and similar engine assemblies is
Loctite 5910
.
Sea-Doo® Official Store +1
While earlier 2-stroke engines like your 2000 GTX originally used the anaerobic
Loctite 518
, BRP has transitioned to
Loctite 5910
for modern Rotax engines because it is an RTV silicone that offers superior flexibility and better resistance to joint movement and high vibration.
Engineered & Industrial Solutions | EIS +1

Why the Switch for 2025?

• Vibration Tolerance: Modern 4-stroke Rotax engines (like the 1630 ACE) face different thermal and vibration stresses than older 2-strokes.
  Loctite 5910
  is designed specifically for flexible flanges and machined surfaces that experience micro-movements.
• Gap Filling: It is effective for gaps up to 1 mm, whereas anaerobic sealants like
  518
  are best suited for perfectly flat, rigid flanges with almost zero clearance.
• Oil Resistance: It provides excellent resistance to the synthetic oils used in high-performance marine engines.
  next.henkel-adhesives.com +2

Buying & Alternatives

• Official Product: You can find the 300 ml cartridge under BRP part number
  293800081
  at the official Sea-Doo Shop.
• Equivalent Alternatives: If you cannot source
  Loctite 5910
  , professional builders often use
  ThreeBond 1211
  or
  Permatex "The Right Stuff" (Black)
  , as they share similar flexible RTV properties.

Application Warning
If you are using this on a rebuild, remember that modern RTV-style sealants (like
5910
) must be applied in a very thin bead. Unlike the older 518, any excess
5910
that "squeezes" into the engine will cure into solid rubber bits that can clog oil spray nozzles or pick-up screens.
Would you like the official BRP torque specs for the 2025 Rotax 1630 ACE crankcase bolts to compare with your 2000 model?

 

[K20017]

Just ask AI how to rebuild a 951 but don't post the response here.

 

[offgrididaho]

Just ask AI how to rebuild a 951 but don't post the response here.

For the sealants its nice to see what the summary is. I have the manual for rebuilding the engine. Seadoo changed sealants so the AI explains it.
Maybe someone wants to know which to use like I did and why. Now they know. Thats what this forum is for.

 

[K20017]

Very well.