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Shes out.....

So arthritis and bad weather be darned, I got it out. The hoist I have for my outboard motor removal made it easy. The purple short straps came from Chinese Harbor Freight.

Whoever pulled the motor last made numerous mistakes.
Tailcone muffler bolt not installed
1 carb bolt loose and falling out (it only has 2)
Both rave valves leaking black trails down motor at gasket or valve.
NO O-rings on head stud bolts.
No clamp on shaft to pto black rubber grease cup/cover.
Airbox laying in bottom of hull.
Leaking 3/32 oil line.
No clamp large intake oil line
Other bolts not tight here and there.

Question:

Where can I get the tool to get the mag off? Anyone have a part number?
I ordered the special hoses for the oil lines.
What type of lines for fuel water?
Where to buy carb rebuild kits?
Where to buy upper rebuild kit and lower gasket kit?
Which pistons do I want for the 951-carb 2000 year model?
Do I have the cases aluminum blasted?
What paint is best for the cases? I would like to use a blue metal-flake clear or silver speckled.

Any other suggestions?

enginpull1.jpg
enginepull3.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sea-Doo flywheel, puller… Amazon, eBay
Carb kits should only be Genuine Mikuni.
Be sure to read, Mikidymac’s carburetor rebuild, sticky at the front of the two-stroke section.
A 951 with 200 to 250+ hours is going to need a crank shaft / balance shaft rebuild… seals..etc
In addition to your new pistons and fresh bore, so on and so on.
Wise guy on here says “ do it once do it right !”
 
Sea-Doo flywheel, puller… Amazon, eBay
Carb kits should only be Genuine Mikuni.
Be sure to read, Mikidymac’s carburetor rebuild, sticky at the front of the two-stroke section.
A 951 with 200 to 250+ hours is going to need a crank shaft / balance shaft rebuild… seals..etc
In addition to your new pistons and fresh bore, so on and so on.
Wise guy on here says “ do it once do it right !”
Yeah I have a place to do the crank. I have never seen anyone talk about doing the balance shaft. Even the crank shop didnt ask me about it when I talked to him. I will ask again. So for the mag puller where do I get that tool that threads on the end? The pto is easy with a flywheel puller but the mag is a special tool. I also need a blind hole puller for the starter bearing. I am going to have the cases blasted so I need to replace that starter bearing, bendex and should I also replace the starter or rebuild it?
 
Rebuild your OEM starter. Replace the brushes, clean the Commutator and lube.
Aftermarket Chinese starters are junk.
eBay and Amazon will have rebuild kits
 
Rebuild your OEM starter. Replace the brushes, clean the Commutator and lube.
Aftermarket Chinese starters are junk.
eBay and Amazon will have rebuild kits
Rodger that.... Crank shop said to send in balance shaft as well. He said same thing about starter you did. Manual say to use loctite 518 for crankshaft case split reassembly. Do you also replace the bendex or rebuild? What about the bendex bearing in the case? Replace that?
Can I get the cases aluminum powder blasted to take off old paint or skip it? So many tiny little details that have to be exactly correct!
 
Crankcase half’s ..reassembled with Yamabond
Don’t know if bendix is ‘rebuild able’ was it ok before?
Needle bearing in case needs protection when blasting cases…
 
Crankcase half’s ..reassembled with Yamabond
Don’t know if bendix is ‘rebuild able’ was it ok before?
Needle bearing in case needs protection when blasting cases…
"Negative Ghost Rider the pattern is full"

This is from the service manual.

Crankcase
Crankcase halves are factory matched and there-
fore, are not interchangeable or available as single
halves.
947 Carburetor-Equipped Engines
Prior to joining crankcase halves, apply a light coat
of Loctite 518 on mating surfaces
. Do not apply in
excess as it will spread out inside crankcase.
NOTE: On aluminum material it is recommended
to use Loctite Primer N to reduce curing time and
increase gap filling capability. Refer to manufactur-
er’s instructions.
 
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