SES Rebuild Status

[CReynoldsMIZ]

It's home!! Motor arrived today. Now I can get back to reassembly. Alignment tool that I ordered should be in tomorrow, Minnetonka sent me the other odds and ends I needed, I think I am all set to go.

Do I see paint inside the spark plug threads in the head??? Please god tell me he didnt spray paint into a brand new motor...

 

[kicker]

Yes you do, I check the cylinders and they dont look like they have any overspray on them. Even the spark plug threads towards the bottom have hardly any paint on it so I think that will be ok.

 

[adamsbj123]

Okay, I cant be the only one who has a huge problem with the paint on the oil injection nipples? I mean for christ's sake, how long does it take to wrap a piece of tape around it? 5 seconds per line? Work with me here but an average novice could possibly just reattach the oil lines and not take that paint out of the nipple like kicker will have to, and then the brand new engine is going to roast because the rebuilder either couldnt take 30 seconds MAX to cover it like any normal person would do, i hope he put more care into the rest of the engine than he did the paintjob, because that is just pitifull to me.... you pay all of this money to get your ski back and the motor should be ready to drop in, you shouldnt have to do more work to it.

At this point I dont care if they paint my engine with a brush and roller. I can buy a can of Krylon for $5. In regards to the oil fittings they were probably confused because you typically remove the rotary valve cover prior to shipping. When my engine finally arrives after waiting 7 months I will post pics.

 

[kicker]

You saw what racer had to do when his motor got some fisheyes and runs. You may be able to sand runs and then hit it with some paint, but what paint is used on that. It might be hard to find the same color that they used.

I was thinking of just redoing the whole thing then colour doesn't matter too much, I am not sure if the paint will stick, I was going to use the Duplicolor wheel paint. Thats what I sprayed the mag cover and starter with already.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I use the poor mans alignment method. No issues to date. (All mine are also carbon seals).

Shame they painted up the oil lines.

I didn't like the serial being painted over either, but I'm also picky.

Test your starter before you drop this in the hull.

 

[kicker]

I use the poor mans alignment method. No issues to date. (All mine are also carbon seals).

Shame they painted up the oil lines.

I didn't like the serial being painted over either, but I'm also picky.

Test your starter before you drop this in the hull.

Thanks for the tip, the starter came rebuilt from Nick so I dont think there should be an issue.

 

[kicker]

At this point I dont care if they paint my engine with a brush and roller. I can buy a can of Krylon for $5. In regards to the oil fittings they were probably confused because you typically remove the rotary valve cover prior to shipping. When my engine finally arrives after waiting 7 months I will post pics.

Tom told me to leave it on cause he sets the RV timing and puts the cover back on.

 

[kicker]

Okay, I cant be the only one who has a huge problem with the paint on the oil injection nipples? I mean for christ's sake, how long does it take to wrap a piece of tape around it? 5 seconds per line? Work with me here but an average novice could possibly just reattach the oil lines and not take that paint out of the nipple like kicker will have to, and then the brand new engine is going to roast because the rebuilder either couldnt take 30 seconds MAX to cover it like any normal person would do, i hope he put more care into the rest of the engine than he did the paintjob, because that is just pitifull to me.... you pay all of this money to get your ski back and the motor should be ready to drop in, you shouldnt have to do more work to it.

I agree CR, I have sent him an email with pictures of all the holes and nipples painted, we will so if it was a mistake by some kid or common practice. I want to make sure that if I take the mag cover off that it will not void any warranty, so I asked him that too.

 

[Robj]

Darn, I take my RV cover off. Should have left it on. Tom actually told me that he custom cuts each RV so it is timed dead on. I sent him my mag housing and he didn't paint it, but I wasn't expecting him to do so. Most important thing is that it runs well.

 

[kicker]

Darn, I take my RV cover off. Should have left it on. Tom actually told me that he custom cuts each RV so it is timed dead on. I sent him my mag housing and he didn't paint it, but I wasn't expecting him to do so. Most important thing is that it runs well.

He didnt clean or paint my mag housing either which is weird, you would think it would take nothing to put it in the tank with the rest of the engine parts to at least clean it up.

 

[kicker]

Darn, I take my RV cover off. Should have left it on. Tom actually told me that he custom cuts each RV so it is timed dead on. I sent him my mag housing and he didn't paint it, but I wasn't expecting him to do so. Most important thing is that it runs well.

Actually if you didnt even send you RV cover in with the motor, thier should be no problem with me taking mine off to clean those inj. nipples. I was concerned about voiding any warranty cause I opened it up.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Darn, I take my RV cover off. Should have left it on. Tom actually told me that he custom cuts each RV so it is timed dead on. I sent him my mag housing and he didn't paint it, but I wasn't expecting him to do so. Most important thing is that it runs well.

Are you saying he actually custom cuts out a brand new rotary valve for each engine?? I am just going to call bs on that, why is a rotary valve good enough for BRP but not good enough for him? Or are you talking about the rotary valve cover, because i can see him machining them to get proper clearance, but not cutting a rotary valve...

 

[Jetskigoodies]

He probably just meant that he would time it for him. But on the warranty, i cant see that voiding the warranty, maybe popping off the head. If you do not pull the rv cover off then he will be getting a warranty call from you because of the paint filled nipples clogging the oil feed and you burning up the top end the first day out. Give him a call, i bet he would be fine just pulling the rv off. Just make sure you time it correctly

 

[kicker]

If I mark the RV and put it back on the same gears do I still have to time it?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

No. Take that masking tape off of the cover. Then unscrew the bolts holding the cover on. Then BEFORE you take the cover off, put your finger threw the cover opening and press against the rotary valve itself, and then pull the cover off. I just took mine off the other week to put new oil injection lines on, and the rotary valve stuck to the cover thus it was not timed anymore, just make sure it stays on the gears and you wont have to do any timing whatsoever

 

[Robj]

He actually cuts each rotary valve specifically for each engine, to get it as close to spec as possible. You will also notice that it is quite tight on the splines.

I don't see any problem pulling the RV cover off to clean the nipple.

 

[kicker]

I got it off and that RV is definitely a tight fit on the gear, there was no way that was going to slide off with the cover. The other strange thing is that it is dry as a bone. I thought when putting it back together they would at least put some 2 stroke oil on it.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

He actually cuts each rotary valve specifically for each engine, to get it as close to spec as possible. You will also notice that it is quite tight on the splines.

I don't see any problem pulling the RV cover off to clean the nipple.

I would really like to see that. I just have a hard time believing that he can keep costs as low as he does, and has the time to individually cut each rotary valve. Honestly, I have never heard of anyone cutting their own rotary valve, why are the OEM ones good enough for the engineers but not for him?

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

I got it off and that RV is definitely a tight fit on the gear, there was no way that was going to slide off with the cover. The other strange thing is that it is dry as a bone. I thought when putting it back together they would at least put some 2 stroke oil on it.

Kicker can you snap a picture of the rotary valve, I would like to see it.

 

[kicker]

Is it possible when you change the compression and cylinder size that the stock RV is not as efficient? I cant say for sure how close to factory spec these rebuilds are. I know all my other 787's have 1 hole base gaskets and this one has 3, so I am thinking the compression is going to be lower.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

my 787 has a 5 or 6 hole base gasket, i dont really think it effects compression too much. It basically just effects the squish gap. The squish gap should be the same for each 787 and all should have around 150 psi. I really doubt that the stock rv would not be as efficient...but im not an expert

 

[kicker]

Kicker can you snap a picture of the rotary valve, I would like to see it.

Here it is, I cant say if there is a difference between this and an OEM, Rob might be right though, because when I took it off it was tight and where there gear profile was cut out you could feel little burrs along the edges. I just don't think Brp would keep those on.

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Hmm. Damn that thing is shiny, its hard to tell tho if it is actually custom cut or not. There are no parts numbers or anything on any of them...but could be. I just dont understand why it would be beneficial or worth his time to do that...

 

[Robj]

If you check compression, do so after it is broken in. When new mine was at 135 psi, when broken in, both were at 150 psi.

 

[kicker]

Hmm. Damn that thing is shiny, its hard to tell tho if it is actually custom cut or not. There are no parts numbers or anything on any of them...but could be. I just dont understand why it would be beneficial or worth his time to do that...

I will ask him tomorrow when I talk to him, I am thinking a local shop does it for him and it is probably cheaper then buying OEM.