Seadoos that have been in storage and not run for years - what to look for?

[bajaman123]

Starting to look around at some Seadoos and have found several that for various reasons have not been in the water for several years. This time of year it is hard to do a lake-test, so buying something that you have to take the owner's word for ("ran GREAT the last time I had it out...") always gives me pause for thought.
I've had boats for over 30 years and know what to look for, at least as far as I/Os are concerned...but I've never personally owned a PWC, though I've had friends and family that have owned them and have spent countless hours riding.

The machines I am most interested in are early to mid-2000 year models, like the RXDI models.

I appreciate any advice, thanks!

 

[soccerdad]

Many of the models have their own quirks so when you find one, post the info and you will get back quick feedback I am sure. The basic check is a compression test. Bring a battery along when you go to look at it since they usually are dead after sitting. Then it is a lot about condition and the electronics. Even if it has been sitting, it may start for you.

Good luck and post back with more specific ski info.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Well first the obvious...gas drained, not a bad idea to dump the oil tank if its been sitting a really long time.

On the DI models it seems the fuel pump impeller breaks down and then doesnt make enough pressure. I would assume sitting does not help that at all. If this is your first seadoo I would prob stay away from fuel injected models altogether.

Another big thing is if they were winterized properly too, feel around the cylinders and where the head meet and feel for anything bowed out.

If it doesnt run, then you are buying non running machines. Pay assuming the worst. Bearings get rusty, motors dont last long when bearings are rusty.

 

[bajaman123]

Thanks, guys.
One of the units I am interested in is a 2000 RXDI, goes into Limp Mode immediately upon starting, but WILL idle. Just browsing the (wonderful) information on this subject in this forum shows the issue could be anything from simple to scary expensive.

Not having the experience with them, fuel-injected engines, especially the early models, are of some concern for me. I've got good mechanical skills and am not afraid of taking on 'projects', but without the proper testing equipment it seems easy to start chasing ghosts.
The flip side of it all is, it is getting harder and harder to find carbureted machines in decent shape that have been well maintained.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

I too, ventured into the SeaDoo world after owning boats on and off for almost 40 years. Like you, I went to the early 2000's and actually looked for RFI because the previous maintenance carb issues seemed scary, even tho I dealt with multi-carb setup and sync in auto racing eons ago.

I settled on a 2001 GTX RFI and I can tell you that the guys on this forum are very active and are extremely helpful. Especially two of the guys, Tonka and Seadoodoc that have already responded to you, but there are many others.

They do not mind if you ask "noobie" questions and if you can't find something with Search (I still have trouble), they will often provide links to threads that will help.

I will caution you, however, that SAD (SeaDoo Acquisition Disease) is very contagious. I bought my first one last September and I am working on my second one right now.

While this does not answer your question directly, maybe this post will provide you with enough confidence to forge ahead.


-Dave
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EDIT: Sorry, Soccerdad replied and his posts are great too!

 

[bajaman123]

Owner of the 2000 RXDI says the limp mode was diagnosed at a dealer as an "air valve" problem.

Any ideas about this?

Thanks!

 

[bajaman123]

I too, ventured into the SeaDoo world after owning boats on and off for almost 40 years. Like you, I went to the early 2000's and actually looked for RFI because the previous maintenance carb issues seemed scary, even tho I dealt with multi-carb setup and sync in auto racing eons ago.

I settled on a 2001 GTX RFI and I can tell you that the guys on this forum are very active and are extremely helpful. Especially two of the guys, Tonka and Seadoodoc that have already responded to you, but there are many others.

They do not mind if you ask "noobie" questions and if you can't find something with Search (I still have trouble), they will often provide links to threads that will help.

I will caution you, however, that SAD (SeaDoo Acquisition Disease) is very contagious. I bought my first one last September and I am working on my second one right now.

While this does not answer your question directly, maybe this post will provide you with enough confidence to forge ahead.


-Dave
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EDIT: Sorry, Soccerdad replied and his posts are great too!

Thanks, Dave.
Yeah, I understand where you are coming from. Years ago...well heck...DECADES ago now...I was "into" British sports cars and had a number of MGs and Triumphs with multiple carburetors and learned to tune and sync them. Now my automotive tastes run towards Mazda rotary fare. Rebuilt a twin-turbo 13BREW engine for my '93 RX-7 that turned out extremely well.
This PWC journey started with my wife finding a used Yamaha 701 Waveraider a few weeks ago and has morphed into a "well, if we get one we may as well get TWO..." type of thing.
I've spent many hours lurking in this and other PWC forums, gleaning what I can from the resident experts.

I've JUST missed out on several good machines here lately, due mainly to having to travel so far. It sucks to drive 5 hours (or more) to look at something only to find the owner had JUST sold it...

Thanks for your post...I am pretty sure I'll be staying here.

 

[purple_people_eater]

stay away from a di with air compressor problems. it usually involves a lot of work and could very well overwhelm you as a newbie. if you insist upon going the fuel injected 2 stroke route, i highly recommend the home owners version of the "candoo" system. its basically a home version of the dealer buds computer and is invaluable for di and rfi troubleshooting. its avliable through pwcmucsle the sponsor of this site.

 

[bajaman123]

Thank you, purple_people_eater. I had seen references to that unit. Seem like a very worthwhile device.
I'm wanting to get my feet wet, so to speak, with a relatively inexpensive machine or two so yeah, the two-stroke world is what I am leaning towards. I'd be splitting 'lake time' with my boat so I'm not ready to dump big bucks into a newer 4-stroke unit.

 

[soccerdad]

Like Tonka said, for a first ski, I would go with a carb ski, not injected. They are so simple. I have never had an injected ski, but from what I have read, the 787 carb and injected skis have the same HP. (110 hp) The injected skis gets better mileage. But I have never come close to running out of gas on a day playing at the lake with mine. But we do stop and float a bunch.

 

[DavesNotHereMan]

stay away from a di with air compressor problems. it usually involves a lot of work and could very well overwhelm you as a newbie. if you insist upon going the fuel injected 2 stroke route, i highly recommend the home owners version of the "candoo" system. its basically a home version of the dealer buds computer and is invaluable for di and rfi troubleshooting. its avliable through pwcmucsle the sponsor of this site.

+2 on the DI model.

There is a big difference between the Rotax Fuel Injection (RFI) and the Direct Injection (DI).

The RFI is kinda similar to automotive, well not the oil injection part, but it has the Throttle Body and "standard" Bosch fuel injectors. The DI has a bunch of other stuff. There are some DI guys on this forum, but I was warned, as a noob, to stay away from the DI.

Hey Purple, I don't have the candoo "lite", as I haven't had any electrical problems (yet, fingers crossed), still worth getting now?




-Dave
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LouDoo]

Here's my 2 cents. Any ski that you can't start is considered a non-runner, so 500-800 is the price range. I would suggest starting with something a little older, mid to late 90's with a carbed, or rfi 787, plenty of power reliable and very easy to maintain, and they are a lot cheaper to buy. There are a lot of these ski's around and a lot of good advice on this forum. DI's are great ski's when running but a real PIA when they are not.

Lou

 

[purple_people_eater]

+2 on the DI model.

There is a big difference between the Rotax Fuel Injection (RFI) and the Direct Injection (DI).

The RFI is kinda similar to automotive, well not the oil injection part, but it has the Throttle Body and "standard" Bosch fuel injectors. The DI has a bunch of other stuff. There are some DI guys on this forum, but I was warned, as a noob, to stay away from the DI.

Hey Purple, I don't have the candoo "lite", as I haven't had any electrical problems (yet, fingers crossed), still worth getting now?




-Dave
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm actually saving up for the shop version. It's a very nice system compared to the other Austrian knock off that have been out in the past. It's nice to be able to put your information on the mpems and such. And if you're a. Performance nut. You can tweak timing curves and maps. But I'm sure if it worth it if you're not having issues. Unless you split it with someone.