Seadoo spark whining noise

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Dizzy201057

New Member
Hey folks need some second opinions on my spark I was in the lake about 2 weeks ago and my spark came to a stop as if I sucked something up I think I did but it must have blown straight out of the back. A weird whining noise came from the rear by the impellar. I got to shore and looked underneath saw nothing. Got home and pulled the pump the wear ring was shot bearing felt pretty good still. got a new wear ring installed it and still having that noise any opinions would be greatly appreciated I posted a video for a example.
 
have you taken it in the water after replacement of the wear ring? Just wondering if you lost acceleration, might check the splines on the impeller and shaft. I haven't experienced this personally but I have read a bunch about squeal noise and the splines being stripped.
 
I have not taken it back to the water since replacement I lost all acceleration the day it went down and started making that awful noise and the noise was still there after replacement. I did not want to button everything down and then have to take it off again impellar still spins fine so I am lost on what to do I pulled the whole pump and shaft there were no metal shavings or anything on the shaft.
 
The impeller is only supposed to spin when the engine is running so I'm not sure what you mean by it spins fine. It should be locked to the shaft and only spin when the shaft spins. If it is spinning on the shaft then the splines are gone and the noise you are hearing is the shaft spinning inside of the impeller
 
I haven't taken mine apart yet but this is my understanding of how they work. If I'm missing something here for sure let me know. As far as I know the driveshaft should spin only with the crankshaft turning and the impeller is a splined fit onto the end of the shaft direct drive. While the engine is off the impeller should not spin. Unless you meant the bearing in the pump housing?
 
Sorry I kinda confused you I meant the bearings in the pump when i disconnected it from the shaft i could spin it with my hands to see if i could figure out if it was bearings or not. I will post a couple pics later on of everything impellar does spin when I start engine it sounds fine then when you give it gas it makes that noise. Thanks for all the replies really trying to get this figured out.
 
Ok I gotcha. I guess I can't really think of anything else that would be causing the noise. If the impeller isn't rubbing on the ring and the bearing is good, make sure the shaft didn't get warped maybe?
 
From the parts diagram it looks like the part of the crank the driveshaft is splined to is a separate part called the Output Sleeve #420947573 $149.99. I have no clue how it comes off as I have not worked on a spark.
 
I did hear in 2016 they changed the design because the first couple years it was happening people were having to replace the whole crankshaft. So that would be good news if it is separate
 
so in looking at that video would that housing come off? Maybe it houses the output sleeve and you can remove it after taking the housing off? looks like 6 bolts? I have never worked on one either.
 
mikidymac said:
From the parts diagram it looks like the part of the crank the driveshaft is splined to is a separate part called the Output Sleeve #420947573 $149.99. I have no clue how it comes off as I have not worked on a spark.
Click to expand...
You can (normally) remove the crankshaft adapter using an impeller tool, but you have to lock the crankshaft using a crankshaft locking tool which you have to buy from the dealer. Then remove the housing and you might be able to grab it with a pipe wrench or something like that. It takes 180 ft lbs of torque to put it back on so getting it off won't be easy while the engine is still inside the doo, you will need an impeller tool to put it back on if you get the old one off. Also if you are going to grab it with a pipe wrench be sure to put the driveshaft back in so the adapter doesn't collapse, take the housing off before you buy anything to see if you can get at it while it's in the machine.
 
Warning, trying the old 2-stroke rope in cylinder trick on a 4-stroke is a tenuous idea b/c there's a good chance of bending an exhaust or intake valve stem. Best is to lock flywheel using whatever means, special tool is one good option.
 
If you do get the adapter off then I would run a magnet around inside the oil pan, drain your oil first.
 
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