Seadoo GTX DI Parts

[Mehrwan]

I bought two SeaDoo’s one with trailer which has title and one with no trailer and no title for parts. They both are 2002 GTX DI. I have to swap the parts Seadoo engine to the other one. The titled seadoo's engine is badly seized with a lot of corrosion in and out. My question would be what to watch for when I install the engine to the titled Seado and how to prevent it from seizing from water, moisture and rust? I am more worried about the internal parts of the motor. I live in a humid area. I would use the Jet ski mostly in fresh water. Any advice is highly appreciated.

One other question I have is how can I sell some of the parts that I don’t need and also how to get rid of the Haul of the no title parts ski?
Thanks in advance.

 

[etemplet]

Costs me $30 to dispose of a seadoo hull at the dump.
Best thing you can do with the moisture issues is fog the engine after a day of riding and spray corrosion protective treatments on the engine. Seadoo makes one.

You should probably hang onto the seadoo parts you have. They are great for troubleshooting and the money you'll get won't be much compared to the value of being able to swap a part to determine if it is the problem. Lots of people here throw money at skis.... the ski just laughs and laughs. Good Luck !

 

[Mehrwan]

Thanks for the advice. I will keep most parts and get rid of the haul. One other question I have: the head bolts of the old engine is star shape. I tried to remove them but they strip. I could only remove one and that also had to use air gun. Any advice?

 

[etemplet]

I'm a machinist by trade so I'm well seasoned in doing the dang near impossible. LOL I just shipped a 951 DI that was running to the engine shop. I was gonna try a top end but I couldn't get any head bolts loose. The head on those bolts are garbage. I called the engine shop I use and asked how they got them loose and he asked if I strpped any. After hearing his procedure I ended up sending him the engine.

If I were serious about removing those bolts the only thing I'd try is to weld a nut into the top of the bolt. Put a lot of weld so that they heat penetrates as deeply as possible into the threaded area. Then I'd gently try to remove the bolt. No Impact wrench. NOTE - I'm not a good welder so I didn't bother trying.

Stuck head bolts are not just problems on the 951s. Good Luck.

 

[Mehrwan]

I got my 02 Parts SEADOO, the motor turns and seams to be in good shape, but the question I have is: is there anyway to make sure motor has no problems before I install it? Also what things to watch for during installation and afterwards. Any hint and help is highly appreciated.
P.s: I have no idea about the conversation of The part SEADOO and don’t even know how many hours is on it. I got it half disassembled, but looks ok from outside!

 

[XPLORx4]

The motor being able to turn is only part of the progress towards a running engine. If you have a way to bench mount the engine, along with the starter, you can probably find some way to run the starter motor so that you can do a cylinder compression test before installing the motor into the hull.

 

[Mehrwan]

I am getting compression close to 150 on each cyl. I think that is good. I want to know what are all the hoses going in and out of the engine. I lost track of them. Any diagram to help me figure them out?
Also, what else to do before installing the engine?

Thanks for your help.

 

[etemplet]

Man that cotton pickin engine has a lot of hoses. Whew. Which ones are you having trouble with? I've done a few and have pictures. If the engine is removed make sure you install the bottom lines before you lower the engine into position.

 

[Mehrwan]

There are black hoses with various sizes! I think the narrow ones are oil. The fatter ones are gas? What about the clear hoses? Air? And then there are bigger hoses for water! I am seeing almost 20 or more hose connections! Hoses going drone did to side, back to front! Is there anyway to upload the pictures you have to help me connect the hoses and components properly? Do I need to clean or replace anything now that I have the engine out?
Thanks

 

[etemplet]

I blew up my brand newly rebuild DI engine in 20 seconds by connecting the wrong hose. The real problem was that I started the engine and let it idle after I knew it had a problem (my first one). Initially I got water in the air pump which caused the air pump connecting rod bolt to break and with me running the engine the rod came through the bottom of the engine. So..... you really want to be sure you have the hoses in the right place. In my defense, LOL, every other hose was correct. You really need to understand why the hoses go where they go so you can avoid costly mistakes. I'll post some pictures but the problem is that you have to follow the hoses around the ski and under the engine which is impossible in one picture. I will be happy to help. After I finish the Carb 951 GTX I'm installing a GTX DI. But that will be some time next month.

 

[etemplet]

Here are some pictures and they might get your started. This was a very dificult ski for me. So many lines and determining where they go and why. I would pressure test the check valves that spray oil into the engine. Then of course prime the oil pump and lines. Here you go.

I DO HAVE A 2 MINUTE VIDEO WHERE I FOLLOW THE HOSES AROUND AND IT SHOWS A LOT MORE. It is pretty good but you'll be pausing a lot. If you message me your email address I'll send it to you.

 

[etemplet]

I posted this video to Youtube. Good Luck !!

2002 GTX DI Hose Video

 

[Mehrwan]

Here are some pictures and they might get your started. This was a very dificult ski for me. So many lines and determining where they go and why. I would pressure test the check valves that spray oil into the engine. Then of course prime the oil pump and lines. Here you go.

I DO HAVE A 2 MINUTE VIDEO WHERE I FOLLOW THE HOSES AROUND AND IT SHOWS A LOT MORE. It is pretty good but you'll be pausing a lot. If you message me your email address I'll send it to you.

Thanks for the pictures. I finally got the Service Manual and it kind of explains water, air, fuel, and oil hoses. I will prime the oil. And will pressure test the check valves. Thanks
Yesterday, I took the starter out because sometimes would not crank! I noticed water coming out of the starter hole, then I removed the Magnetto housing to see what’s going on in there. There were water corrosion. I will replace it. My question would be if water was in magnetto housing, would water also be in bottom end? Anyway to make sure the bottom end is good before installing the motor?
thanks for your help.

 

[etemplet]

You don't need to replace the magneto unless you see deterioration on the windings and such but you can judge that. I've cleaned up a few mag housings that looked really bad. A big concern for you is the starter bendix bearing that is inserted into the engine casing (inspect and grease it.)

As for water and corrosion in the bottom end you can remove the reed valves and look inside. That won't tell you everything but will be a good indication. Removing the exhaust you can look into the cylinders. I have poured oil into the bottom ends and let them soak for a time.

Those check valves on the engine should hold about 1/2 pound of pressure and should pop around 2-3 pounds. I have managed to clean them and get them working without removing but some have to be replaced. They are $30 each. You may find some plugged solid. I've gotten engines from the builder where these valves need attention so don't think they change them. I think this is why some engines fail early.

Make sure the water coolers are clear. You don't want any surprises after you install the engine.
I'd also send the fuel and air injectors out for cleaning and replace the filters in the fuel tank. People just don't do maintenance on these skis so you have to catch it up to keep the ski reliable. It's a lot of work but pays off in the end. Good Luck !

 

[Mehrwan]

You don't need to replace the magneto unless you see deterioration on the windings and such but you can judge that. I've cleaned up a few mag housings that looked really bad. A big concern for you is the starter bendix bearing that is inserted into the engine casing (inspect and grease it.)

As for water and corrosion in the bottom end you can remove the reed valves and look inside. That won't tell you everything but will be a good indication. Removing the exhaust you can look into the cylinders. I have poured oil into the bottom ends and let them soak for a time.

Those check valves on the engine should hold about 1/2 pound of pressure and should pop around 2-3 pounds. I have managed to clean them and get them working without removing but some have to be replaced. They are $30 each. You may find some plugged solid. I've gotten engines from the builder where these valves need attention so don't think they change them. I think this is why some engines fail early.

Make sure the water coolers are clear. You don't want any surprises after you install the engine.
I'd also send the fuel and air injectors out for cleaning and replace the filters in the fuel tank. People just don't do maintenance on these skis so you have to catch it up to keep the ski reliable. It's a lot of work but pays off in the end. Good Luck !

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I am slowly installing everything. Two other confusing items popped up: 1- I am not sure where this oil breather filler hose connects to (in the picture)? 2- The fuel rail from the other engine does not line up with this engine? The tightening bolts does not line up with the holes on the head? Are there two different types?

 

[etemplet]

I am slowly installing everything. Two other confusing items popped up: 1- I am not sure where this oil breather filler hose connects to (in the picture)? 2- The fuel rail from the other engine does not line up with this engine? The tightening bolts does not line up with the holes on the head? Are there two different types?

Take A Picture of the engine. Tom at SES told me that the heads are different on the earlier DI engines. I don't know if there is a different spacing for the fuel rail. One DI has a fitting coming out for the cooling water and the other one (like in my picture) the cooling water outlet is part of the head... no screw in fitting.

If you're talking about the fat line on the air pump (compressor) That fat line goes under the engine and connects to the Throttle body manifold.

 

[WaarrEagle]

I am slowly installing everything. Two other confusing items popped up: 1- I am not sure where this oil breather filler hose connects to (in the picture)? 2- The fuel rail from the other engine does not line up with this engine? The tightening bolts does not line up with the holes on the head? Are there two different types?

For #1, that line runs up and ties in to the oil reservoir fill cap housing. See below from the year 2000 shop manual.

 

[Mehrwan]

The little oil fill/ breather I am talking about is highlighted with the red circle. The fuel rails are exactly visually the same that’s why I did not take their pictures, except one has the bolt hole a little off than the other one. The heads must have a mounting holes which are a little off than the other! I have to either use the old head or come up with new mounting holes for this rail!
Let me know about this oil fill and breather that if it connects to anything. It has a very small hole sized to tip of a niddle!

 

[Mehrwan]

This is the photo

 

[WaarrEagle]

Let me know about this oil fill and breather that if it connects to anything. It has a very small hole sized to tip of a niddle!

See my post above.

 

[etemplet]

With the DI I had some concerns about that line myself. I checked another DI ski to be sure. That line has a check valve then it plugs into the rave solenoid in the picture. (NOTE: Not actually the rave solenoid but the Rave system as you can see) If this is wrong they are both wrong. LOL I suggest you verify it as best you can before making the connection. Good Luck.