Seadoo 2000 model GSXRFI wont start in water

[donarmstrong58]

No One in this area can figure this problem out. It starts fine out of the water and when you place it in the water , you have to hold rpm's up so that it won't stall. If if stalls it won't start while in the water. I had it several seadoo shops in the area and none can figure it out. The last one said that I would have to split the cases and retime the crank. Help, I have owned this for 4 years now on the problem still exists and it is frustrating to say the least.

 

[Bills86e]

RFI won't start in water
Try pushing the start button 5 x with the dess lanyard in place. That places it in advanced diagnostic, and might show a code.
Replace the fuel injectors and reset the TPS to zero.
Did they report the crank index to you as not being 180* ? Its an easy DYI proceedure in your service manual.
A lean condition is a cause of NSIW.

 

[donarmstrong58]

Seadoo 2000 model GSXRFI won't start in water

Bill; Thanks for the info. No they did not indicate to me that the crank was out of time, that was their best guess. they had it for 5 months.

 

[Bills86e]

RFI motors have 5 sensors that provide information to the fuel injection system. 1) throttle position sensor. 2) water temp. 3) air temp. 4) air pressure. 5) crankshaft position sensor. If one of these sensors malfunctions the watercraft will be put into limp mode and will be rev-limited to get the operator back to land.
RFI fuel systems. The fuel system consists of .1) the fuel pump. 2) the fuel pressure regulator. 3) the fuel filter. 4) the fuel level sensor. 5) the fuel injector. Every thing listed here except the fuel injector is located in the fuel pump assembly which is located in the fuel tank. Fuel pressure should be tested while the watercraft is under a load, due to the fact that the fuel pressure can change drastically from just checking it at idle. The correct fuel pressure should be 56-60 psi.

With the information listed above there are many variables to consider when In most cases an engine that runs poorly or does not run at all may be the result of a sensor malfunction, poor fuel pressure, clogged fuel filter, bad throttle position sensor or a throttle position sensor that is not adjusted properly, Incorrect spark plus and last but not least a BATTERY That does not have proper voltage while cranking over the motor. Insure BR8ES plugs are gapped .021. (.020-.024).

Most of these sensors can be checked by ohms testing and the use of the factory repair manual which is highly recommended when performing an engine swap. Any authorized dealer of the brand watercraft has the ability to do complete diagnostics to find electrical and fuel related issues that might be occurring that the customer can not solve them selves. BUDS. But cannot read Fuel or Mechanical malfuntion.

The fuel pump setup for RFI (RotaxFuelInjection) is GM based. That is partially true, but not entirely. The pump itself is a Bosch pump that crosses to a BMW Z3, but it very similar to the pump used for a 95 Chevy Beretta. It is also the same pump used in a 97-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The Part number you want for the fuel pump is 69223. The fuel socks are as follows: the internal sock (inside the canister) is also for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, 97-04, Airtex part number FS220. The external sock (at the bottom of the fuel module) is for a Saturn 1.9L, Airtex #FS242. The fuel pressure regulator is for a Chrysler, returnless style fuel system. I am trying to cross the exact application, but I am betting one for a Jeep is right, but it is also very similar to the ones used in all 2g Dodge Neons (2000-2005) and PT Cruisers (all models). All of those models run at a spec'd 58psi.
One of Mine started losing prime because the rubber gasket that holds the bottom of the pump was rotted. I undo all the nuts and remove the pump as a unit from the tank, then dissasemble. I determined A mixture of one part Toluol (tolulene) to four parts gas is ideal for rejuvinating the pump. I put a short line onto the out nipple of the pump and put the pump in a bowl (1/3 full) and apply 12v and lightly tap on it, then after it begins running, if pukes the orange crap out and then runs better. After a few minutes I had a great working pump! I used a rag on a stiff wire to clean the tank. I used the mixture to clean the pump fuel sock and the filter. I found alot of debris in the fuel rail when I used the mixture. WARNING: Toluol has a very low flash point (very combustible). Use caution in an open area. I have found
othere cleaners NOT to be effective. Toluol can be bought at hardware and paint
suppliers for around $16.00 a gallon. I also advise you consult your service manual.

 

[Bills86e]

So you can understand better, here is an HLSM Seadoowarehouse pic of your fuel
system. I just realized in post #2, I advised injector replacrment because of pintol
pins electrical corosion failure to vibrate on the seats in a closed position, But I am
more inclined to think its a delivery problem.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=18&A=70&B=14&Action=O

Good Luck, Bill

 

[gopojack]

2001 GTX RFi wont start in the water

I have what may be a similar problem. My GTX RFi usually starts fine on the trailer but only sometimes in the water. It all seems to be functoning fine, insert key, two beeps, hit and hold start button, engine will crank for 5 to 10 seconds, then just when it should be starting, the starter solinoid de-energizes and the starter looses power (although I am still holding the start button). All other power is OK and no problem with the dash/gauges. I can continue to try for approximately an hour until the battery finally starts to die and it's the same short cranks of 5-10 seconds but just to the verge of starting. I have changed the battery thinking low voltage while cranking. No effect. I checked all terminal ends and found nothing. I jumped the large posts on the solinoid and it will keep cranking (will not start because key was not in) and unplugged the solinoid wires and jumped power into the solinoid and it will keep cranking.
I know that with the singular start/stop button, pushing it is just telling the computer to power the starter selinoid, and I know the computer should not allow the starter to re-engage if the engine is already running. My thought is, after the initial 5-10 seconds of cranking, the computer thinks the engine has started and dis-engages the starter. Is this possible? Is it a spike in voltage from the charging system that tells the computer the engine has started? I'm fearful to do to much electrical tinkering with this thing since I have previously had to replace the voltage regulator and have read about the touchy electrical systems on these Sea-Doo. I have considered adding a mechanical momentary switch to jump hot to the starter selonoid but worry about other effects on the electrical system. I wish it would just work right!

 

[popasodatastie]

did you get the extended warranty becuase if its still covered its only 50 bucks to have seadoo do it. but check your manuals.

 

[ckiddp]

Concerning 'Seadoo 2000 model GSXRFI wont start in water'. I had the same thing happen to my 2003 Seadoo GTILE RFI. I replaced the engine my with a rebuilt aftermarket unit and it ran perfectly out of the water. Upon launching the unit in the water, it would die. This was repeatable. I took it to a Seadoo dealer and after looking at it, he felt there was a internal sealing problem with the engine when I installed it. Out of the water with no real load on the output shaft, it ran fine, but once it was in the water with the impeller churning against water, load was now on the engine. He thought the crankcase was not not sealing. I took off the PTO and reworked the o-ring around the output shaft and double checked all of the housing seals on the front of the engine. That did it - next lauch she ran perfectly. I must say, this was a really tough one and had me stumped - and the shop manual was worthless, as it is with most troubleshooting . Check your PTO seal and other o-ring seals and you might find your problem. Good luck!

C Kidd

 

[Bills86e]

The symtom of not enough fuel when under load of water on prop. I suggest you
pull the pump unit from tank, dissasemble & clean it and injector rail. Rail pressure
should be 59 psi. I bet when you get in there (tank) its got debris all thru it, rails.
Time to do your annual Rave cleaning too. Let us know how dirty it is. Lots of good
help here.

 

[timothy.pullyn]

Hi all, I will jump on the bandwagon also, mine runs fine on land but bogs down and dies when in water, then I have trouble re-starting when in water but will start fine when I get it back on the trailer. Will try what you all have mentioned above and let you know. This site is a great resource! Thanks.