Sea Doo GTI SE possible phantom limp mode?

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Pillsbury

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Hi, I could really use some veteran/expert advice on this issues I've been having with my 2006 Seadoo GTI SE. I just bought this PWC about 3 weeks ago but it's had this problem since the first ride I took with it. It has 90 hours on it and the previous owner hadn't used it in 2 years prior to selling.

The Issue:
The jet ski runs great for about the first 30-45 minutes that it's on the water. Full rpm range, speeds up to 56mph, super responsive throttle, etc. But after about 30 minutes of use (and rather light use if I'm being honest like 1/2 to 3/4 throttle most of the time) it will become less responsive to throttle input until the only thing it can do is idle at approx. 1700 rpms. After this point, any application of throttle with either: do nothing, or cause the jet ski to sputter and stall. There are no alarms, no check engine lights, nothing. If I keep it off for 5-10 minutes it will run perfectly fine for a few minutes and then go back to only idling shortly after.

The Attempted Fixes (so far):
I scoured the forums and used my own experiences from working on boats for the past decade to diagnose and try to solve the problem. My first thought was bad gas, given that it was not used for over 2 years. So I fully emptied the tank and refilled with new gas. It solved nothing, although the prior gas was definitely bad. My next thought was maybe the fuel pump was overheating or failing while being used. So I pulled the fuel pump assembly and changed the fuel pump and both fuel filters. Still no dice. I also swapped the sparkplugs for new ones at the manual's specified gap of .030 as well as check all the fuel injectors to make certain they weren't clogged or dirty. The issue is still present. I read that it could be the idle bypass valve or the TPS. I checked both with a multimeter and they both appear perfectly functional. I also checked every single fuse, all were good. I'm at a bit of a loss of ideas now...

Current thoughts:
With zero warning lights coming on the dash, it's really hard to pinpoint what could be causing this. The jet ski 100% acts as if it's in limp home mode after it gets warm but without any dummy lights. I ran it on the hose earlier today and let it run for about 20-30 minutes until the pitch of the engine changed and it was slightly less responsive to throttle input. The head and the exhaust water hose felt HOT but from what I've read, the OEM thermostat opens at 188°F which is much hotter than the standard 140-160°F that most boat engines operate at and I'm used to. The water that comes out of the exhaust is also hot but if I could guess it's probably nearer to 200°F. I've already ordered a 160°F thermostat to replace the OEM one, but I have my doubts on that being my solution. My next idea would be to see if I can get a dealer to read the ECU and see if there are stored codes.

Has anyone else experienced this behavior out of their 4 tec engine or have other ideas of what might be causing it to act this way?
 
You probably need to replace your carbon seal after running it that long on the hose.

There is no correlation between the exhaust water temp and the engine temp since they are completely different systems so changing the thermostat is pointless. If you had a high temp issue, the ski would tell you.

It's not going into limp mode if it doesn't throw any codes so probably nothing to read on BUDS. Most likely is an electrical problem that when it gets hot it is cutting out like coils, rectifier, ECU, etc.
 
I'm thinking the throttle body either needs cleaning or it's failing to send the proper signal back to the ecu , its motorized so a possible item to check. It's married to the ecu , but it looks like you have a BUDS so you could marry a new one to the engine. Another possible problem is wiring, a manual gives the ohms for all circuits, or the ecu itself?? Check the ground wires for sure, look for possible resistance in the ends , possible throttle itself , but that should give a code. Do a compression test when it is cold , then hot and acting up , maybe a stuck valve, broken spring. Try to eliminate the mechanical side , it's easy and cheap.
 
Update:
So I double checked on the voltages and resistance going to the TPS. For the connector going to the TPS, the voltage readings according to the manual should be 0 volts, 5 volts, and 4.5-5 volts, respectively. My readings on the connector were: 0 volts, 5 volts, and 3.4 volts. To triple check the system, I unplugged the corresponding A connection to the ECM and found the three pins that feed the wiring harness for the TPS. They're pins: A24, A25, and A39 for those wondering. The voltages readings were consistent ( 0v, 5v, and 3.4v) which means that the ECM is not supplying the correct voltage on the third wire to the TPS.

I'm not sure if that's what would be causing my jetski to return to idle rpms after warming up, but I think it's worth noting. Now I'm wondering if the ECM is bad or if something else would be causing the voltage issue. The other connections read fine. And the battery is at 12.4v when not running and 14.5v when running.

Edit:
This is the problem when operating it. One video shows when the problem first begins, the next is about 5 minutes after.

IMG_0226

IMG_0227
 
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Could easily be rear oil pressure switch failing,,,the computer thinks there isn’t enough oil and shuts the motor down,,,easy to replace and the switch is cheap,,,if you have one upfront, replace that as well.
 
the computer thinks there isn’t enough oil and shuts the motor down,,,
This would definitely send a code

After watching videos, definitely looks to be electronic and I'm thinking ECU. I suspect one of the fuel injectors is not working like it should because of the ECU. Just fixed an 06 GTX that was flooding number 3 cylinder, new ECU fixed it.
 
This would definitely send a code

After watching videos, definitely looks to be electronic and I'm thinking ECU. I suspect one of the fuel injectors is not working like it should because of the ECU. Just fixed an 06 GTX that was flooding number 3 cylinder, new ECU fixed it.
That's what I fear most. I hate the idea of buying a new ECU just because the old one is acting whacky. These computerized engines are damn annoying... half the time the engine is perfectly fine but it's the computer that goes haywire. :mad:
Before I shell out a few hundred for a new ECU, I'm going to try a new battery. I also cleaned the battery connections today and I unplugged the MPEM, checked for corrosion (there wasn't any) and plugged them in again nice and snug. Aiming for another test ride this weekend. If unsuccessful... I'll succumb to buying a new ECU. Any idea where I can get one for less than $700? Ideally brand new.
 
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So my manual says:
If voltage test is good, replace the TPS.
If voltage test is not good, check the resistance of
the TPS circuit.
Did you check the TPS resistance per the chart ?

Also I just had an issue with oil pressure, oil was too old, would beep like crazy, flash oil on display, & go into limp mode, no codes.
 
So my manual says:
If voltage test is good, replace the TPS.
If voltage test is not good, check the resistance of
the TPS circuit.
Did you check the TPS resistance per the chart ?

Also I just had an issue with oil pressure, oil was too old, would beep like crazy, flash oil on display, & go into limp mode, no codes.
I did, the TPS resistance is nearly exactly the spec of the manual from idle to WOT. But the voltage test did not match the manual, where the third voltage was about 1v-1.5v below the specification according to the manual.
I haven't re-tested with the new battery, but right now the water impeller housing has been removed because I am going to swap the OEM 188°F with a 160°F. No idea why Sea Doo would run their jetskis at that high of temperatures but it seems way to hot for vehicles that typically operate in hot weather. Although this is more of a TLC fix than an attempt to solve my problem.

My gut tells me ECU, as I've eliminated just about every other thing.
 
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