RXT 260 SeaDoo OEM Synthetic v.s. Mobil 1 0W-40 Synthetic

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
I have a 2014 RXT-260.

If I change with Mobil 1 or Castrol 0W-40 Full Synthetic, will it be okay for my engine? It could be a better alternative and more price friendly compared to the XPS/ SeaDoo stuff. Looking for a wet clutch motorcycle/ Jetski compatible oil (if that exists).
 
Last edited:
I believe the SeaDoo 4tec oil is synthetic blend due to the fact the supercharger clutch washers don’t like a full synthetic. There is a warning in my owners manual not to use a full synthetic. Read you owners manual. There is a 4 Tec SeaDoo oil change kit for sale on Amazon that includes all you need plus good instructions that is reasonable
 
I believe the SeaDoo 4tec oil is synthetic blend due to the fact the supercharger clutch washers don’t like a full synthetic. There is a warning in my owners manual not to use a full synthetic. Read you owners manual. There is a 4 Tec SeaDoo oil change kit for sale on Amazon that includes all you need plus good instructions that is reasonable

Thanks! As far as synthetic blend goes, are there any options cheaper than the SeaDoo OEM mix.
 
Owners manual is vague to say the least for supercharged models. “If the recommended XPS engine oil is not available, use a 10W40 mineral engine oil compatible with wet clutches.”

No specific oils listed.

Then they say


“Damages caused by oil which is not suitable for the engine will not be covered by the BRP limited warranty”

If I owned a machine under warranty and was changing my own oil I would probably stick with the XPS oil and keep records.
 
Owners manual is vague to say the least for supercharged models. “If the recommended XPS engine oil is not available, use a 10W40 mineral engine oil compatible with wet clutches.”

No specific oils listed.

Then they say


“Damages caused by oil which is not suitable for the engine will not be covered by the BRP limited warranty”

If I owned a machine under warranty and was changing my own oil I would probably stick with the XPS oil and keep records.
judging by those comments rotella T6 would be fine, or any JASO MA spec oil basically 4 stroke motorcycle oil due to the wet clutches. Other than that it is just an engine use the correct weight and you are good. 5w-40 is better than 10w-40 IMO. If you are within warranty, sure I guess I would use what they recommend just so you don't get any guff, but out of warranty the rotella is only $22 a gallon. It is also heavy duty and has a lot of zinc which is good for anti wear
 
Bobistheoilguy.com may have something to say about this subject. Those guys are oil lunatics!! Also Mobil1 does make wet clutch, , motorcycle specific, oil.
 
NOTICE: NEVER use synthetic oil. This would impair the proper operation of the supercharger clutch. Do not add any additives to the recommended oil. Mineral oils for API service classification SM contain additives (friction modifiers) that may cause inappropriate slippage of the supercharger and eventually lead to premature wear.

Rotella T6 is a full synthetic with a SM classification.
 
I’m thinking a motorcycle wet clutch is a lot different from the washer wet clutch present in our superchargers. So maybe even though it’s approved for motorcycle wet clutches, it might not be so good for our supercharger wet washer clutch.
 
I have a 2014 RXT-260.

If I change with Mobil 1 or Castrol 0W-40 Full Synthetic, will it be okay for my engine? It’s a lot cheaper than the SeaDoo stuff.

Mission aborted, craft has 30 hrs currently and has undergone 4 regular maintenance oil changes with XPS/ SeaDoo synthetic blend oil.
 
Keep in mind tha all automotive oils are now energy conserving low zink oils now. These oils are missing almost all of the anti friction additives especially zinc now due to emissions and catalytic converters. Your 4-Tec engines need these additives to survive so follow the manual. If you don't want to use the Seadoo oil at least use a good motorcycle rated oil.
You also can't use these new oils with an older car with a flat tappet cam as it will absolutely destroy the cam and lifters since there is no zinc.

I still find it crazy that people will spend over $10K on a ski and then complain about a $50 oil change. There is a joke over on the BMW motorcycle site that the cheapest thing about a BMW is the owner.
 
Keep in mind tha all automotive oils are now energy conserving low zink oils now. These oils are missing almost all of the anti friction additives especially zinc now due to emissions and catalytic converters. Your 4-Tec engines need these additives to survive so follow the manual. If you don't want to use the Seadoo oil at least use a good motorcycle rated oil.
You also can't use these new oils with an older car with a flat tappet cam as it will absolutely destroy the cam and lifters since there is no zinc.

I still find it crazy that people will spend over $10K on a ski and then complain about a $50 oil change. There is a joke over on the BMW motorcycle site that the cheapest thing about a BMW is the owner.

craft has 30 hrs currently and has undergone 5 regular maintenance oil changes with XPS/ SeaDoo synthetic blend oil
 
I'd stick with the OEM oil, even though you should be fine with some alternatives. The "wet clutch" oil I think would contain the friction modifiers but who knows what's really going on these days of catalytic converter friendly motor oils?

This is why I run either mercruiser oil in sterndrives or a single weight oil, to avoid this cat-friendly at any cost and never-mind the flat tappet lifter interface oil.

And as far as I know, the only difference beside the additive package between DINO and full synthetic is the base stock is refined to a higher quality. I do agree full syn handles heat better and I believe the improved elimination of impurities is responsible for this.

And our gasoline stinks differently, doesn't smell anything like the old stuff. This begs the question of why wouldn't we need to compensate by adjusting fuel mixture and perhaps other aspects.
 
Keep in mind tha all automotive oils are now energy conserving low zink oils now. These oils are missing almost all of the anti friction additives especially zinc now due to emissions and catalytic converters. Your 4-Tec engines need these additives to survive so follow the manual. If you don't want to use the Seadoo oil at least use a good motorcycle rated oil.
You also can't use these new oils with an older car with a flat tappet cam as it will absolutely destroy the cam and lifters since there is no zinc.

I still find it crazy that people will spend over $10K on a ski and then complain about a $50 oil change. There is a joke over on the BMW motorcycle site that the cheapest thing about a BMW is the owner.

Absolutely, people trying to save 20 usd and risking damage on the engine. Most change the oil once a year so very little to be saved... But it is people's nature to experiment and some have just enough money to buy a PWC, nothing left for maintenance so they look for shortcuts till it goes bang.
I see the same on a daily base on the yachts and boats. Spending all the money to buy the biggest yacht, nothing left for maintenance. They drive a season, sell the boat and complain about yachting to be expensive :)
 
Well since it says Seadoo you can be guaranteed that it is the correct spec, has the correct additive package and won’t hurt anything in your engine. You can’t say that about generic Walmart oil.
 
Absolutely, people trying to save 20 usd and risking damage on the engine. Most change the oil once a year so very little to be saved... But it is people's nature to experiment and some have just enough money to buy a PWC, nothing left for maintenance so they look for shortcuts till it goes bang.
I see the same on a daily base on the yachts and boats. Spending all the money to buy the biggest yacht, nothing left for maintenance. They drive a season, sell the boat and complain about yachting to be expensive :)

I bet... Just looking for a better oil alternative. If it is better quality and cheaper, then it is a win-win. Obviously the fully synthetic option is not ideal.
 
I bet... Just looking for a better oil alternative. If it is better quality and cheaper, then it is a win-win. Obviously the fully synthetic option is not ideal.

I totally agree with you, I like to feed my toys the best I can within reason and I hate being tied to a specific brand. I use the Seadoo 2-Stroke synthetic because it is approved and reasonable in my opinion but I would use Amsoil also. For all my other 2-strokes I like Klotz.

The supercharged 4-tec are a little strange though as you want to use a really good oil like a synthetic but then the clutches can't tolerate synthetic.
 
Last edited:
I thought the clutches were just metal washers? Not really a clutch right? Motorcycle clutch fibers not metal to metal?
 
"Better" is better in the eyes of the corporate marketing beholder. I'd use the Sea-Doo oil even if it costs more. It's a known quantity. With a high revving, supercharged engine, I want a known quantity!
 
I thought the clutches were just metal washers? Not really a clutch right? Motorcycle clutch fibers not metal to metal?

In the service manual BRP refers to a supercharger “clutch”when defining which oils to use for proper operation. It is also a wet clutch because oil is used to control the slippage of the washers. Yes they are different clutch materials but both use slippage and friction to control RPM so I would say both are clutches.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top