RXP-255 lot of oil blow by out of catch can

[A_Bred]

RXP-255 lot of oil blow by out of catch can


Hello everyone.

I am looking for an answer to an issue I am having with my RXP-255 (2010). I put a new motor in it this year (supposedly only had about 5 to 8 hours on it when I got it). Had a few other issues to work out on the ski, which have been all resolved. Take it out and runs great. I can get up to a max speed of 72 MPH, which is about the max on this ski.
Only issue is, I getting a lot of blow by (or blow off) of oil out of my catch can. The filter is saturated and it is blowing oil all over the inside of the jet ski haul and motor (just as an FYI - I have the hose coming out of the PCV valve - located at the end of the motor as it should be, having the hose run long to the font of the motor. That is where the catch can is). So the whole front of the motor is wet with oil - so I am talking about you can see everything wet with oil, but not having standing puddle of oil. === Things I still need to do. -
• Check the PCV valve.
• Check the plugs
• Check my intercooler hoses to make sure I have no oil coating the inside of them.
• Going to do a compression test.

This is all I can think of to possibly solve this issue or see what is going on. Never worked on one of these before so I have a few growing pains with it.

Any help would be good (And oil level after running for 30 seconds and letting sit for 30 seconds is just under half way between the two points of the oil stick).I know these things have an issue with to much oil in the pan. Thanks

Thanks in advance. a

 

[MacSeaDoo]

My experience and thoughts: (Take it for what it is worth)

All machines I have had my hands on have oil in the intake. All of them. Some have more than others, but I have yet to see anything yet today that actually affects the actual performance of the machine.

If you are not adding oil you are not losing oil. If you are adding oil often, you have a problem. Even a little oil make a mess, that is why I just let it go back in the intake and the machine will burn it.

If your machine is hitting 72 MPH, I am guessing your compression check will be good. If you are running it flat out all the time, I would expect more oil.

BTW, If i fill the oil to the top mark, by midseason it will be at the middle mark and it stays there till the end of the season. That is why I don't bother filling it to the top mark anymore. Also the first year I had my machine i was running it hard as I was often out with my friends who were on their PWC's. That year I added some oil mid season. (half a litre). Now I hang more with boats pulling the kids on the tube. I don't run often at above 7K RPM and have way less blowby.

My advice..

If the catch-can makes a mess and you are not losing oil on the dipstick, get rid of the catch can. If you are losing oil on the dipsick, you might have a more serious blowby issue.

 

[A_Bred]

My experience and thoughts: (Take it for what it is worth)

All machines I have had my hands on have oil in the intake. All of them. Some have more than others, but I have yet to see anything yet today that actually affects the actual performance of the machine.

If you are not adding oil you are not losing oil. If you are adding oil often, you have a problem. Even a little oil make a mess, that is why I just let it go back in the intake and the machine will burn it.

If your machine is hitting 72 MPH, I am guessing your compression check will be good. If you are running it flat out all the time, I would expect more oil.

BTW, If i fill the oil to the top mark, by midseason it will be at the middle mark and it stays there till the end of the season. That is why I don't bother filling it to the top mark anymore. Also the first year I had my machine i was running it hard as I was often out with my friends who were on their PWC's. That year I added some oil mid season. (half a litre). Now I hang more with boats pulling the kids on the tube. I don't run often at above 7K RPM and have way less blowby.

My advice..

If the catch-can makes a mess and you are not losing oil on the dipstick, get rid of the catch can. If you are losing oil on the dipsick, you might have a more serious blowby issue.

Thank you for the in-site on this. I have yet to run through my checks (hope today or tomorrow). I agree with you on the compression test and the fact that it hits top speed without an issue. - I know these things do not like to be run with the oil level filled to the top, so I actually drained some out. I am running maybe just a little high at the moment because it is a new motor so it is not even really broken in yet.... .I am sure the rings are still seating therefore the blow by may decrease ( I hope ). Again thank you for your thoughts. Very helpful.

 

[A_Bred]

Thank you for the in-site on this. I have yet to run through my checks (hope today or tomorrow). I agree with you on the compression test and the fact that it hits top speed without an issue. - I know these things do not like to be run with the oil level filled to the top, so I actually drained some out. I am running maybe just a little high at the moment because it is a new motor so it is not even really broken in yet.... .I am sure the rings are still seating therefore the blow by may decrease ( I hope ). Again thank you for your thoughts. Very helpful.

Update for who ever is following this - So I took the ski out of the water and at home, tore it apart slightly (the lower shell is off so I can access the motor). Oil every where - from blowing out of the catch can filter.

Oil is now way down - level barley touches the stick. - no blow bye what so ever in the air in take tube, none what so ever in the tube coming out of the super charger. Pulled the plug towards the back - white. Pulled the other two plugs - dark ----- but not because I think of not firing correctly - the spark plug wells were filled with oil due the blow bye coming out of the catch can which is right at the top front of the motor.

Took the catch can and PCV valve off the ski. Cleaned the PCV valve - blew into the PCV valve - air went through it with no resistance. Flipped the PCV valve upside down, blew in it again - air did not pass though it unless i blew really hard. - so it works. --- and finally pulled about a quart (or two ) out of the bottom of ski. - as far as I can see all coming from the catch can blowing out. - Thus all over the motor and inside the plug wells.

So I am stuck at this point. --- still to do the compression test (if needed - again ran at top speed with no white smoke).

Could this be because of the oil pressure valve in the motor??

Thanks for now

 

[Digdog]

Update for who ever is following this - So I took the ski out of the water and at home, tore it apart slightly (the lower shell is off so I can access the motor). Oil every where - from blowing out of the catch can filter.

Oil is now way down - level barley touches the stick. - no blow bye what so ever in the air in take tube, none what so ever in the tube coming out of the super charger. Pulled the plug towards the back - white. Pulled the other two plugs - dark ----- but not because I think of not firing correctly - the spark plug wells were filled with oil due the blow bye coming out of the catch can which is right at the top front of the motor.

Took the catch can and PCV valve off the ski. Cleaned the PCV valve - blew into the PCV valve - air went through it with no resistance. Flipped the PCV valve upside down, blew in it again - air did not pass though it unless i blew really hard. - so it works. --- and finally pulled about a quart (or two ) out of the bottom of ski. - as far as I can see all coming from the catch can blowing out. - Thus all over the motor and inside the plug wells.

So I am stuck at this point. --- still to do the compression test (if needed - again ran at top speed with no white smoke).

Could this be because of the oil pressure valve in the motor??

Thanks for now

As far as I know there is no PCV valve I'm sure you are talking about the oil separator and it has the tip over switch (TOPS) in it to prevent water in case you roll over, but here is a suggestion. If you know that the oil level is checked correctly according to the manual and it is not blow by in the cylinders then according to the service manual and personal experience that the recommended service item is to replace the V ring at the end of the TOPS Switch. It is part of the oil separator , and it is supposed to make contact with a metal washer inside the plastic hub at the end of the camshaft. Check to see if that metal washer is in there. When my V ring was hard it blew oil out like a liter an hour or so , once I replaced it it almost completely stopped.

 

[A_Bred]

Good morning from where I am. Thank you for the information DigDog.
This gives me a little bit of hop as I was seriously thinking of pulling the motor if I got no answers ( and - only after going to a person I found to do work if I can't, which is a reliable person - hard to find around here). So OEM calls it a vent valve ( I have seen PCV as well as the oil separator etc). But I do see the exact part you are mentioning. I have to look at my ski and see about the part you are mentioning. I am wondering when I took the old motor out and switched parts over to my new motor that I did not move that part over. --- I only moved the main valve. --- as for oil check - made sure the jet ski (motor) was level, ran for 30 seconds, shut off for 30 seconds check the oil. --- Once I can break away from work and have a chance to look at my jet ski I will leave a follow up back here. - The amount of oil that you were loosing sounds exactly like what is happening to mine. Thank you. Al

 

[ridewot]

Try doing a leak down test , this will pin point any blow by.

 

[A_Bred]

So its been a while since I have had the chance to get back on here and give an update to my situation. First off a big shout out to @Digdog for the information you gave me. Hit it on the nose, but it was a little more extreme. So I took my valve off the head, and took a peak inside. Sure enough the V-ring was not there, but the thrust washer was also not there, and the piece that the thrust washer fits into ( simply described as the cover ) was very loose. Now remember this motor that I bought was almost new (about 5-10 hours on it). So I took my valve cover off and wow - on the rocker arm was the V-ring (now I already had a new one delivered). But I took the valve cover off because I did not like how the cover was fitting onto the end of the cam. - Sure enough it was slightly torn up. So I went back to my shop where I swapped the motor and took the cover and thrust washer out of my old original blown up motor and all is back in my ski. - Ran it and not one drop of oil now, and the catch can is even still dry. So once again thank you @Digdog, very much appreciate you input. -- Now I have upgraded my prop to a 15/21, tuned the motor to match and a new wear ring. --- ready for a final put in the water this weekend and staying docked on the lift for the rest of the summer. --- Ski on folks and have a great time. And that you ridewot for the suggestion. - Peace.

 

[A_Bred]

Okay, hate to say this but I have yet another post. I get science and engineering but this is getting ridiculous.

I have gone through a lot on this jetski and come pretty far and learned alot. Engine blown (no idea what the person did before i bought this thing - looks like he tore it apart and was not very good at putting it back together). I have replaced the engine, and have had my issues getting it to where it is, which is a huge improvement. Now once again stumped and hate once again come here for thoughts (i usually figure things out for myself, its always what i have done - but its got to be a jetski thing because these things are a whole different beast).
So if you have looked at my trilogy or seen it, I have yet another issue. And the story continues.
he new issue is this. Won't get above 55 (even though previously have hit 72). Now that I have put the new motor in around 55 or above it vibrates so bad seems like the drive shaft is going to come out of the haul. --- New prop, and wear ring installed, steering adjusted to center.
Motor was put in to what I think is aligned (no adjustment on the mounts - center whole - no room to adjust), Mine has a bolt to tighten around the shaft which it tight. ... not sure where to go with this, so guess the saga continues. Any thoughts would be great.

And going to take the pump out once again and make sure the wear ring is not torn up, if it is, than I guess an alignment problem is happening. Ugh --- so this story continues. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Digdog]

Check the compression , look at the plugs , sounds like you have a cylinder not firing. could be a connection issue as you just changed the engine. I doubt an alignment would cause a huge vibration , it would just wear the splines out quicker. Look at the tach when you are speed for reference , you should be around 8K

 

[A_Bred]

Check the compression , look at the plugs , sounds like you have a cylinder not firing. could be a connection issue as you just changed the engine. I doubt an alignment would cause a huge vibration , it would just wear the splines out quicker. Look at the tach when you are speed for reference , you should be around 8K

Okay, hate to say this but I have yet another post. I get science and engineering but this is getting ridiculous.

I have gone through a lot on this jetski and come pretty far and learned alot. Engine blown (no idea what the person did before i bought this thing - looks like he tore it apart and was not very good at putting it back together). I have replaced the engine, and have had my issues getting it to where it is, which is a huge improvement. Now once again stumped and hate once again come here for thoughts (i usually figure things out for myself, its always what i have done - but its got to be a jetski thing because these things are a whole different beast).
So if you have looked at my trilogy or seen it, I have yet another issue. And the story continues.
he new issue is this. Won't get above 55 (even though previously have hit 72). Now that I have put the new motor in around 55 or above it vibrates so bad seems like the drive shaft is going to come out of the haul. --- New prop, and wear ring installed, steering adjusted to center.
Motor was put in to what I think is aligned (no adjustment on the mounts - center whole - no room to adjust), Mine has a bolt to tighten around the shaft which it tight. ... not sure where to go with this, so guess the saga continues. Any thoughts would be great.

And going to take the pump out once again and make sure the wear ring is not torn up, if it is, than I guess an alignment problem is happening. Ugh --- so this story continues. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Check the compression , look at the plugs , sounds like you have a cylinder not firing. could be a connection issue as you just changed the engine. I doubt an alignment would cause a huge vibration , it would just wear the splines out quicker. Look at the tach when you are speed for reference , you should be around 8K

Well after a lot of checking and tearing things apart (after I did a compression test - 90, 65 an 65 - should be around 120). I unclogged one of the injectors, but was a wasted effort in a sense. Motor is shot. So I was apparently lied to about the motor and the hours on it, and to boot its an SBT motor, which after going back and looking at the paperwork found this out. Prob, the worst built motors on the market.
Now I am left with trying to find a new motor, try once again to go with a used motor (both are hard to find) or I rebuild this one after the summer is over. I can still ride it, just not at max speed (around 50 or so). So I will do that as long as I can an see where I go. Thanks and see ya all.

 

[A_Bred]

So after some searching have found yet another used motor (from the owner of the shop I use). My machine now has the name on the back ---- Named --- " MO MONEY "

He says 110 hours on the motor with good compression. I will work out the details if I decide to buy it and put it in. Can maybe have it in the water again in Aug.

One issue - The PTO. I don't think its an issue but asking if anyone has an opinion.

My original PTO has the crank sensor at 7 O'clock, and the one that was (or is) on the motor he has is at 12 O'clock. --- It is my understanding that I just need to put the PTO from my machine on the motor so the sensor position is still at 7 O'clock position.

I would think my electronics are set up to match the position of my PTO.

Once again any thoughts appreciated.