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RXDi limp mode

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please guys help me.. it just does not make sense.
all iv done is replace the steering tower column the day before, but I don't see how that is an issue if it went fine during warm up an now is locked..
 
As a DI owner it has been my experience that more times than not the symptoms you have described turn out to be either the rectifier or temp sensor.
Might put a meter on the temp sensor...
 
Hey guys guess what
130.jpg


Saw this hiding under the fuel rail.
Nd mirror showed the temp sensor plug is broken. So problem diagnosed. Hold the plug on and no faults showing. Yaaaay. You guys are effing awsum. Thank you so much.
 
Hey guys guess what
130.jpg


Saw this hiding under the fuel rail.
Nd mirror showed the temp sensor plug is broken. So problem diagnosed. Hold the plug on and no faults showing. Yaaaay. You guys are effing awsum. Thank you so much.

That's great. Now go enjoy your ride!! :)
 
Well back to the beginning lol. Starts fine. Runs fine but when I leave it to idle for 10 secs it starts beeping slow long beeps. Like beeeeeeep. Silence. Beeeeeeep. And says maint. And in limp mode.
 
Ok now I would start from the beginning. Back to the battery...still reading 16 volts? If so, borrow, or get another correct battery that is reading the proper voltage and install it.
Start it with a meter connected to the battery. If the voltage is above 15vdc your rectifier is not functioning properly and needs to be replaced. A rectifier not functioning properly will make these skis act weird. Ask me how I know. :) Rectifier voltage normally should be 13.5 - 13.8 approx.
If that is not the problem then you need to start from the beginning diagnosing the engine as laid out in the engine management section of the manual "troubleshooting."

Since your ski will start and run and the buds is not working, I would start manually checking all the sensors one at a time after checking the rectifier. Fuel sensor, knock sensor, EGT sensor, water temp sensor etc. You fixed the broken connection on the WTS, but did you check the sensor itself?

Hope this helps. Maybe someone with more knowledge about DI electronics will chime in and help you out if you can't find the problem.
 
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Ok guys I'm at my fekking WHITS end now. Replaced water temp sensor. Rectifier and yet STILL faulting. Same long slow beep. What now?? Iv literally had enough of this POS. I have been out of water over a month and starting to forget what water feels like. Beginning to think the ski Murray sold me is a lemon.
 
I went through some of these things with my DI rebuild as well. I feel your pain. One thing I want to mention that I didn't see above is, the DI engine will trigger a maintenance light for both high voltage & low voltage. So if you unplug the rectifier, that will actually cause a problem with undercharge & give you the same symptom as over charge. What voltage do you have at idle? I might have made a post about the threshold voltages, IMO, the DI is fussier than any other ski when it comes to voltages & they are known to eat regulators/rectifiers. Lots of current draw & no heat ventilation.
 
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Does the maintennce beep happen right after you plug in the lanyard now? Or does it happen only after you start it?



EDIT: The maintenance light will come on with voltages dropping below 13V when around 2K RPMS' & will also trigger from voltage above 15ish. Like Jhjesse said, very fussy system.

If your light is coming on right after the lanyard is installed & before its started, its not the R/R IMO
 
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So no beeps on lanyard install then. Can you hook up a voltmeter to your battery & test a few things?

jot down your voltage before installing the key. Then install the key & jot that down. Then start it up & watch its readings.
keep a note of what its at, & what you read at the time it starts its annoying beep. Then raise the RPM to 2500 (when the beep stops) & give me that voltage.


Sure sounds like a voltage issue to me.....
 
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Ok I'll do that. No it only has the usual key beep beep on install. Otherwise no maint flash or beep until idling
 
Any updates? Now you have me involved and curious........ ;)

Guessing your weekend is already over given your location. Probably Monday Morning?
 
If you disconnect the rectifier and the battery is large enough, the ski should be able to run for several minutes without the system voltage dropping enough to trigger a low voltage fault, yes?

Edit: See below... The answer is no, b/c a "MAINT" fault will occur if system voltage drops to normal battery voltage.
 
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As you know, my RX had a slew of problems that came with it, so its a little convoluted.
But one problem I found was it did have a bad R/R. It was putting out something like 16.5V at 2K & tripping the maintenance light when I would bring it off idle. So I removed the red wire from the harness & it put the light on even sooner. didn't even have to rev it up. Voltage was something like 12.4 if I remember correctly. Replaced the R/R & all was good as far as the light goes. I could easily pull the wire again & test it to confirm this.

You could be right. It's possible my battery was not fully charged at the time. I don't recall exactly, but I know it was over 12V running.
 
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Just went out to the shop & re-tested for sake of all involved.
(& the fact that I was doubting my own information) ;)

Battery is fully charged 12.65V face charge. (just off my maintainer yesterday)
It is at 12.5 with the lanyard key on.
Started it up & it rose to 14.35V at idle. I raised RPMS & the voltage dropped to about 13.8V
but it never got any lower, or higher varying the RPM's. Seemed pretty stable at that reading.
Ran great, no lights or beeps.

So, I then unplugged the output from the R/R. Restarted & had 12.35 at idle. The maintenance light came on within 5-10 seconds of idling.
didn't display low battery, just showed "MAINT" & put the light on.

Plugged it back in & back to normal.

On a side note:
I didn't use an oem R/R as a replacement in this ski. After reading the high failure rates with them, I installed one I had from a GSXR750. It used the same 3 winding configuration, & it bolted right in too. Just had to swap harness's. I believe it has a higher Amperage & does have a larger heat sync area. Hoping it will be tougher & last a long time, but then again, it could fail the first time out.... lol. we shall see.
 
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Just went out to the shop & re-tested for sake of all involved.
(& the fact that I was doubting my own information) ;)

Battery is fully charged 12.65V face charge. (just off my maintainer yesterday)
It is at 12.5 with the lanyard key on.
Started it up & it rose to 14.35V at idle. I raised RPMS & the voltage dropped to about 13.8V
but it never got any lower, or higher varying the RPM's. Seemed pretty stable at that reading.
Ran great, no lights or beeps.

So, I then unplugged the output from the R/R. Restarted & had 12.35 at idle. The maintenance light came on within 5-10 seconds of idling.
didn't display low battery, just showed "MAINT" & put the light on.

Plugged it back in & back to normal.

On a side note:
I didn't use an oem R/R as a replacement in this ski. After reading the high failure rates with them, I installed one I had from a GSXR750. It used the same 3 winding configuration, & it bolted right in too. Just had to swap harness's. I believe it has a higher Amperage & does have a larger heat sync area. Hoping it will be tougher & last a long time, but then again, it could fail the first time out.... lol. we shall see.

I measured 13.8v on my carbed 951 with everything hooked up and working as well, it's got a huge battery.

I'm curious for some reason, did your DI actually go into limp while the RR was disconnected or just give the "MAINT" fault? I guess they will if the system voltage isn't in the expected range, b/c the MPEM knows it can no longer control air/fuel mixture.

Edit: And, since your DI gave a fault at 12.35v with the RR disconnected, then it's probably going to do that independent of battery size/condition considering the electrical load involved, the battery voltage will drop under normal 12.5v battery output.

This is good info, my conclusion from this is disconnecting the RR isn't a good way to test it, an accurate voltmeter reading at the battery is the best way.
 
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Thats a really good question.

I don't believe it went into full limp mode as I could still rev it up with no issues, or change in RPM. But, this is a test on the trailer only. I didn't try to rev it over 4K though. I never gave limp mode much of a thought as I was only researching the maintenance warning side of it.
was Qcustoms ski was going into limp mode since he found his temp sensor disconnected? Sounded like it was just an idle issue.

Not 100% sure.
 
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