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Running on hose without jetpump installed

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kicker

kicker

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On the 787, I have my jetpump off the ski but want to run the motor on the hose. From what I can tell when the hose is hooked up to the back of the ski the water goes in the reverse direction. Goes in the outlet of the head and gets forced through the system and would come back out the inlet wear the jetpump would normally push water through to the engine.

Would there be any problem with me running the ski on the hose without the jetpump installed?
 
Nope,
You don't have carbon seal to worry about.

Just not too long on the hose though. Don't want possible over heat issue due to lack of pressure jik. I would think
:rolleyes:
 
Ya, driveshaft is out. Thanks guys. I am just waiting for some O rings for the jetpump but want to keep going on this ski. Need to run it on the hose and make sure there are no leaks.
 
Nope you can do it easily....I actually did this one time. Here's how the story goes, I was driving the GSX and apparently didnt tighten the cooling line clamp from the jet pump to the head, it came off, filled the hull with water and the ski overheated. Anways, didnt realize that it came off after i got towed home and the ski was 1/2 full with water :) Drained it all out, and i realized the engine was full of water. I didnt want to drive back 25 minutes to the lake, pay $20 bucks to get in only to get all the water out of the engine. So basically I pulled the pump and driveshaft, got it started and let it run for like 30 minutes on the hose to get the water out of the engine and make sure that it was pretty dry in there. Seemed to work well for me and I saved my carbon seal and jet pump from overheating and didnt have to spend $50 just to go back to the lake...
 
That was good thinking CR, anything to save a buck.:thumbsup:

Well I did this last night so I could check for any water leaks. It did not go so well for me. Not only did I find a leak were my manifold connects to the cylinders, but my PTO came flying off.
This is from a newly rebuilt engine, I have no idea if it was not tightened on properly or because it has not been run in the water yet the driveshaft has not torqued the PTO on tight.

87.jpg
 
HMMMM. So when you sent your engine to ses, did they connect the manifold or was that something you were required to do? I have never seen the pto fly off, actually i have never even seen the pto removed. It looks like it is screwed in there and not pressed on? Can you just screw it back on there and tighten it down? I wonder if it is supposed to have threadlocker on it
 
The manifold is something that I had to install, not really sure why it would leak, I put new gasket on, and torques all the nuts to spec.

The PTO threads on, the problem is when you tighten it the motor turns.
 
I have heard some people say to stick a piece of rope (not sure what kind) down the spark plug hole and turn the engine over so that the rope keeps the engine from turning. Im not sure if the idea is to get the rope down into a port and stop it, or so the piston cant reach the end of the stroke and it mashes against the piston and head.

Hmm, you did follow the tightening pattern according to the manual, right? I wonder if the cylinders aren't aligned correctly since they were aligned with a different manifold or guide...
 
kicker said:
That was good thinking CR, anything to save a buck.:thumbsup:

Well I did this last night so I could check for any water leaks. It did not go so well for me. Not only did I find a leak were my manifold connects to the cylinders, but my PTO came flying off.
This is from a newly rebuilt engine, I have no idea if it was not tightened on properly or because it has not been run in the water yet the driveshaft has not torqued the PTO on tight.

87.jpg
Click to expand...

81 ft/lbs is what it should get torqued to IIRC. I have an old bendix that I had mounted to a plate spanning the two starter holes to replicate the OEM flywheel holder. The rope in the cylinder would probably work, but I was always afraid to do it on a fresh engine. Or see if you can get just the right size nut to actually wedge in between the flywheel and the mag housing

As far as the leak, I use a SKIM coat of Hi temp Copper rtv, like just enough so it BARELY squeezes out once torqued and an OEM gasket. The RTV is just to fill any porosity in the mating surfaces(small dimples in the casting) Did you use black metal reinforced gaskets? If so I found them to be leakers while pressure testing.

That is the ONLY place I'll use RTV on a gasket, all others are dry right from the bag.
 
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Thanks for the tips. I will try locking up the flywheel to get that PTO torqued down. What do you use to tighten it, a pipe wrench or should I get the tool?

I used copper spray on the gasket, but it is a metal reinforced one.

This really sucks, I just put it all together without scratching anything. I might be easier off just removing the engine again, the carbs, manifold, starter and possibly mag housing and tuned pipe has to come off anyways. 3 more bolts after that and the engine is out again.

Sent using Tapatalk
 
kicker said:
Thanks for the tips. I will try locking up the flywheel to get that PTO torqued down. What do you use to tighten it, a pipe wrench or should I get the tool?

I used copper spray on the gasket, but it is a metal reinforced one.

This really sucks, I just put it all together without scratching anything. I might be easier off just removing the engine again, the carbs, manifold, starter and possibly mag housing and tuned pipe has to come off anyways. 3 more bolts after that and the engine is out again.

Sent using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use the splined impeller tool to torque it down with a torque wrench. I never used the copper spray, only rtv from the tube. As for pulling it, yep that's what I'd do. No point in working bent over and pissed off about it.
 
Yep use a torque wrench, rope in the cylinder is fine at that torque level, and yes, pull the motor- I'm down to less than an hour in my 720 powered skis, it just makes life easier. Wrap towels around the hull opening to minimize the scratch factor.
 
Should be good to go. Let me know how the flywheel holder works, I might have to upgrade from my cobbled piece.
 
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