Rotary Valve Oil Send Line

[ne1]

2 stroke oil in the bottom of the hull of my 98GTI. I've checked the tank seams and the grommet under the tank and those appear ok. So before going further I squeezed my phone in to capture a video of the oil lines that go to the rotary valves. The send on the carburator side looks like it may be the culprit. Question: will I need to remove the carburetors to get to it? If so, new gaskets required.

Thanks for your help

 

[Dr Honda]

It will be easier to verify everything with the carbs off. YES... you will need gaskets.

 

[ne1]

I will preface this by saying I'm real comfortable with electronics and wiring. Engines and carbs aren't exactly in my comfort zone.

I ended up pulling off the air box, top and bottom pieces to try to get a better look. Best I can do is equivalent to the pictures above. I know you had mentioned removing the carb but I still wonder with that off only, will I have access to that ~1/2 oil line going into the crankcase. Sorry it may be trivial to those that wrench on this frequently. I'm just surprised to not find many posts on folks dealing with this particular oil line, even though it's mentioned as having problems drying out and with the hose clamp. And surprisingly no pictures of one getting "fixed".

I'm just wondering if this have to include removal of the oil pump and RV covers etc.....

 

[pwgsx]

Most leak from the hose clamp making a hole in the line. You can pinch the line and remove it from the motor side, trim off 1/2 where the clamp was and then re-install.

 

[mikidymac]

Just pull he carbs......

 

[ne1]

I decided to jump in and see how far I get. Noticed once I had the plastic air box off that I for sure have the green goo. So I have purchased all new fuel line too.

Question: I have a service manual, but the flame arrestor base plate on mine seems to have 2 supports coming from the engine with 2x 8mm bolts in each (can't find that setup in the manual) I suspect they need to be loosened as it looks like they are notched in the support?

Question #2: given this setup looks different than my service manual. How does the gasket and screen come out of the flame arrestor base plate? I pulled a bit here and there but didn't want to wreck them?

Thanks in advance

 

[mikidymac]

You take out the 2 bolts that attache to the head and just loosen the ones on the air cleaner.

Pull the 6 bolts that hold the air cleaner plate on and take off the plastic housing. The wire mesh and rubber ring will come out as one unit. Just work a small screwdriver around the corners to work it up and out.

 

[ne1]

Thank you. I probably will bug more....

Screen out as to your instructions. Bolts from the arrester base into the carburetor. One is real tight so I am soaking both with some penetrating oil overnight.

 

[ne1]

Tried to order a carburetor base plate gasket from the local Seadoo shop. I found online a part number of 290 850 373 their response was no longer available. Where I'm located in Canada, I think new sales is the only real thing on the dealer's mind. No effort in finding a sub# if one exists.

 

[mikidymac]

Your dealer is full of crap the updater part number is 293250134 and list price is $10.27. This is the gasket between the carb and intake manifold on a 1998 GTI.

 

[ne1]

Thanks again. They can get it in a day or two $11.99 in my dollars. Not horrible

 

[ne1]

Got the stuck bolt out of the arrestor base plate without breaking Patience and a little air wrench action and I'm down to the carb. It looks like 3 fuel lines, throttle ,choke and cable from carb to oil pump then the 2 bolts and I'm free.

Any secrets to removing any of those. I'm a bit worried about adjustments putting them back!

 

[ne1]

What's the best method to remove throttle and choke cable? And how in the heck does the cable to the oil pump come off?

Thanks

 

[ne1]

Waiting for the gaskets and fuel filter, I ran all new fuel hoses. Fixed the damn F1 fuse (great engineering there).

Questions:

Does everyone add an inline 250ma fuse to one of the wires of the fuel pickup so it can easily be changed?

Still not sure about the easiest way to disconnect the oil cable to the carb from the oil pump. It looks like loosen the top nut by the carb a bit and then thread out the cable via the long threaded nut?

Same with the choke/throttle whats easiest way to be able to get this back "close" to what I had?

Thanks

 

[mikidymac]

I have never added a fuse to the sending unit.

 

[mwat65]

When removing the Oiler cable loosen the front nut but not the back so when u put it back it will be in the same place. . There are alignment marks on the Oiler itself if you have already . Leave a small amount of slack when you put the throttle and choke back on. If it was correct before just loosen the front nut.

 

[mwat65]

Sorry just realized you have the threaded bolt on your Oiler. Loosen the top barely and then the back will unthread the bolt. Use alignment mark on Oiler for reassembly

 

[GGuillot]

Feedback I'm hearing, probably wasn't necessary but after repair I added an inline fuse on one of the wires. If I remember used a 1/2 amp glass fuse and holder, figured the F1 fuse was designed in for a reason, voltage surge, etc.

 

[ne1]

With the tip on removing the oiler cable (thanks mwat65) I got the carb off the engine. As suspected, it barely makes it any easier to get to that RV oil line. Any secrets other than a mirror, feel, scraped knuckles and patience that I have worn out over the years?

 

[mwat65]

You can remove the intake to access that line just be careful that the rotary plate doesn’t come with it or you will have to time the rotary.

 

[mwat65]

You will learn to be able to work on a lot of things by feel alone if you work on a Seadoo very much .

 

[mikidymac]

I don’t suggest removing the rotary cover due to chance of messing up the timing and an air leak.

Mirror and feel.

 

[ne1]

I'll give the mirror and feel strategy a shot tonight after work. It will either be one of those deals 2 hours later you wish you never attempted, our shock the hell out of you and not be too bad.

 

[ne1]

Knocking on wood here.....

Was able to get the old line off and fixed backup by feel and a couple mirror peeks in less than 25 minutes. Surely not a record but I was thinking 2 hours and 2 dozen swear words. Downfall is the Exxon Valdez in the bottom of the hull. I'll clean that up and let it sit the night to make sure that is the only leak...

Thanks again for the continuous help and advice.

 

[Mekanix]

Tried to order a carburetor base plate gasket from the local Seadoo shop. I found online a part number of 290 850 373 their response was no longer available. Where I'm located in Canada, I think new sales is the only real thing on the dealer's mind. No effort in finding a sub# if one exists.

www.winnercirclecanada.com
That's where you can get stuff in Canada. Located in Ontario.
Pretty my go to place for the dealerships "that's obsolete"