Rotary valve cover clearance question

[Toolanddiemaker]

I just put the lower end together today on my 657 build and decided to check the clearance on the rotary cover I checked it with the rosin core solder method and with 45 degree feller gauges I got .015 with the solder and a micrometer the book says .012 plus or minus.002 so I'm basically a .001 out of tolerance the feller gauge showed .014 going in and the .015 was tight so there both close. I tested with a new valve plate and no o ring torqued to 15ft pounds. Is .001 out worth the $100.00 for a rework at sbt or will I be ok? On my speedster motors I sent them out because they were .008 out and started hard prior to rebuild but this motor fired right up prior to rebuild. Any suggestions? Thanks!


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I guess if the surfaces are scored, the clearance is greater? I'm not an RV guy, just was thinking about some scoring causing more clearance leakage than indicated by a feeler gauge.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

I guess if the surfaces are scored, the clearance is greater? I'm not an RV guy, just was thinking about some scoring causing more clearance leakage than indicated by a feeler gauge.

Yeah the cover looks ruff but the case is good

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[soccerdad]

On one of my skis, the clearance is out of spec by .001" I ran it all last season without any real issues. I think the main issue is hard starting if this clearance is too big. Mine is a 787 though. Not sure about the difference it makes in a smaller motor. If money is short, I would try to run it.

 

[racerxxx]

I would never run that rv cover on any of my skis. That's scrap in my eyes. If you look around the center where the gear is you can see the vertical lines. That is what you want to see across the entire surface. The oil/gas "sticks" to that and provides "lube" to that surface. The case side is smooth to provide the seal.

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[Toolanddiemaker]

Thanks for the replies money really isn't an issue but I do have a lot invested in the new crank and top end so I would hate to risk it over $100.00. It does look like crap and all the grooves are pretty deep so off to sbt it goes.


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[racerxxx]

You didn't ship it yet did you? I hope you weren't in another rush!!!!!!!!!!

Here's NOS for $30 shipped, I know SBT isn't charging you that little.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-Rot..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item2a4c9a4588&vxp=mtr

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

You didn't ship it yet did you? I hope you weren't in another rush!!!!!!!!!!

Here's NOS for $30 shipped, I know SBT isn't charging you that little.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Doo-Rot..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item2a4c9a4588&vxp=mtr

lol! Nope but I did just buy the one from the link you just sent me! Thanks that was an awesome deal! U just saved me at least $80.00 or more plus it's oem can't beat that,man how do u find these great deals you the man!! Thanks!!!




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[Toolanddiemaker]

I know this isn't related to my post but I'm also searching for a good oem starter and I came across this nos oem starter but it looks a little pricey is that the norm as far as price goes?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/251752069167?nav=SEARCH

I don't want to buy aftermarket I made that mistake once before. Lol! I was being cheap in a rush!


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[jammin777]

that seems to be a great price. i know the one for a 787 is over $200

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

that seems to be a great price. i know the one for a 787 is over $200

Yea I was thinking so also the junk ones seem to go for around $100.00 or so and used oem can be any wear from 50.00 to 75.00. I will keep searching but I might go with it he's got two so I might have some time.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'd like to hear more about the aftermarket starter you ended up with, like where it came from and what exactly you noticed about it. I do vote for OEM, although have acceptable service from aftermarket on mercruisers although they aren't built as well as some of the OEM starters. OEM starters for mercruisers have beefier parts and I keep them to build up starters from parts for guys who are having a bad day.

 

[Toolanddiemaker]

I'd like to hear more about the aftermarket starter you ended up with, like where it came from and what exactly you noticed about it. I do vote for OEM, although have acceptable service from aftermarket on mercruisers although they aren't built as well as some of the OEM starters. OEM starters for mercruisers have beefier parts and I keep them to build up starters from parts for guys who are having a bad day.

Well I only have one experience to speak of last winter when I restored my speedster I decided to get new fresh starters for both engines and being new to the game I bought 2 celtric staters I think they might have been about $60.00 a piece from ebay and after only a few trips out on the lake one of them started acting up it wouldn't engage and I had to hit the back of it with the butt of a screwdriver to get it going after a few times of this happening it just died I ended up throwing they old denso oem starters back in and they worked great. At the time I was really green to motors and I just assumed that new starters would be the way to go because I wanted to install while I was rebuilding and had the motors out and thought that it would be good Insurense but I only created more work for myself. I can't speak for all aftermarket starters because I only have this one experience but from what I've read oem and rebuilding your oem seems to be the best option. Looking back I should have just rebuilt the oem starters and called it a day.


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[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Thanks. I've never heard of those Celtric starters. I guess there's a lot of junk on the market these days, lots of bad experiences with aftermarket on Seadoos, Yami's too, same starter basically so must be similar situation. Soft armature shafts twist and the Bendix spiral gets deformed or gouged, hangs up and no longer engages maybe?