Replacing Oil Grommets

[KyleW2]

New oil tank grommets just came in for the SP. Since the oil tank is near full (3/4 or so), I'm thinking about clamping off the oil lines and pulling the tank out to drain it easier with minimal spillage (I am replacing the RV bath line also, so I'm prepared to spill a little out of there when I pull the line). I assume this would also make it easier to put the new grommets in.

Is this necessary or is there a simpler way to do it?

Also, how often should the 3/32nd lines be replaced? What about the oil filter? Both were replaced within the past 2 years (can't remember for sure if the oil lines were last summer or the year before).

Thanks!

 

[mikidymac]

I siphon out as much as possible first.

Small oil lines and filter should be fine.

 

[KyleW2]

An update:

Using clamps such as these (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html?_br_psugg_q=line+clamp+set) works really well for the oil lines. Clamped right in front of the oil pump nipple, above the oil level in the rotary valve return line (so I could disconnect it from the tank), and as far down on the rotary valve feed as I could reach. Was able to remove the oil tank 3/4 full with minimal spillage. Since I was replacing the main rotary valve line, once I disconnected the old line I had the new line sitting waiting to slide on so very minimal spillage there.

Once it was off, I just drained the oil tank directly into a jug. Super simple.

I went ahead and replaced the 3/32 oil lines while I was at it since previously I didn't use the stainless steel tab zip ties. I did this time, and it was definitely worth the price of them. Also found out that MaxPower #334180 is genuine Tygon line sold at Autozone.

Replaced all oil line clamps with either the nice zip ties or stainless steel hose clamps. Should be leak free for a while.

I did screw up and accidentally loosen the banjo fitting on the oil pump. Does anybody happen to know the torque spec, or just tight?