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Removing Rotax 787 Oil system, possible?

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chil100

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Hello

I have a GSX from 96 with the 787 enginee. I think it has a problem with the oil delivery, I am considering to uninstall the hole oil system(tank, hoses etc) and just have the oil strait into the gasoline. Do any of you think this will give me problems? is it not just as good to have it in the gas? Then I know its getting oil...anything special I have to think about if I uninstall the oil system?

Thanks for this great forum

/Christian
 
i thought you couldn't remove the oil system completely because its still needed for lubrication in the rotary part...

you can block it off to the fuel system and go to premix, but i believe the pump and oil tank must stay in (and keep the tank partially filled)
 
"There are two oil lines that still need to run to the engine, the one that comes from the top of the oil tank and runs by the exhaust is down below the two cylinders. I believe this one lubricates the gears for the rotary valve. The other one is one of the two that came originally out of the bottom of the oil tank. The one that went to the oil pump should be plugged, the other one goes underneath the carbs and lubricates the rotary valve itself if I'm not mistaken."
 
Yes you have to keep part of the oil system set up for the rotory part....So even if that guy was running premix he still would have had issues.
 
So if i plug the cable going to the oil pump but keep al other cables open I should be fine..? I see people talking about the "block-off plate" for the pump..do you really need to do that? I mean if the feeding line to the pump is blocked its blocked.. I dont quit understand :)

ty for all reply’s about this issue.
 
On the 800 engine....


Remove the oil pump, and plug off the hoses going to the engine, and the one from the oil tank. Plug off the hole where the pump was. Mix your fuel at 40:1 with the same API-TC oil you burn now.

The rest of the system must stay in the hull, and the tank needs to remain about 1/2 full. You need an oil reservoir to lube your rotary valve gears.
 
OR.

You can just run an line from one side of the valve resivoir to the other, and add a T to fill it up. Then you can scrap the oil tank completly. Works great on mine. Never an issue.
 
OR.

You can just run an line from one side of the valve resivoir to the other, and add a T to fill it up. Then you can scrap the oil tank completly. Works great on mine. Never an issue.

Please do not recommend that.

Yes, it will work, but if you have a RV seal prob... you will suck the oil out of the hose, and destroy the engine. That method is for racers only. There is not enough oil volume for the average recreation rider who won't check it after every ride.
 
Please do not recommend that.

Yes, it will work, but if you have a RV seal prob... you will suck the oil out of the hose, and destroy the engine. That method is for racers only. There is not enough oil volume for the average recreation rider who won't check it after every ride.

I guess I figured if your gonna delete the oil pump your should know enough to look at the hose to check for oil level. I check over a few simple things before and during each ride myself. but I guess theres some that just jump on and ride, fix when it breaks..
 
I tried going to premix and started burning through sparkd plugs like crazy. With premix you are feeding the same amount of oil all of the time. So at low speeds you are sending to much oil and will foul out the spark plugs. It is a real pain in the butt. I went back to oil injection. Just something to keep in mind.
 
I have decided to remove the pump and go for premix, Do I need to take out the engine? or can this be done with the engine still in the jetski...The guids only showing how to remove not if this can be done while the engine is installed.


:)?
 
I don't see why you couldn't remove it while the motor is still in the ski. So i would say yes, besides pulling the motor to remove the oil pump is extreme.

Nathan
 
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