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Removing Rave valves

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ThreeD

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I'm removing my rave valves for cleaning and at a loss for how to get the bellows off from the lower mouting piece so that I can take the valve off and clean it. Do i take off the springs around the bellows?

Also, I can't take the MAG side Valve off due to the exhaust manifold being in the way. The PTO side came off easily, but the manifold is in the way of me pulling out the MAG side one. Anyone know any tricks to take this particular Rave valve off without taking apart the exhaust manifold? Thanks!
 
Not sure how the 3D is set up, but sounds like the same issues I have with the 787s.

The spring comes off around the bellows, and then peel the bellows off the plunger.

On the one that is obstructed, you will need to disassemble it on the block.

Take off the bellows and unscrew the bottom plunger plate, and pull the valve out.
 
Perfect! I thought that is what I might have to do, I just wanted to verify that the bellows do come off when you take off the springs before I started diggin around! Thanks Scooper! See, I told you that you can help out us 3d guys :)
 
Having never seen one, I wasn't sure if the RAVEs were set up the same way.

So don't go expecting answers on much else on the 3D.

Actually, I lie. I have seen ONE on the showroom floor and was shocked to see that it was a Seadoo.

I have nothing against them, whatsoever. Just haven't had a chance to work on them or ride them, or even see them to study them.
 
I'm having issues getting the bellows off of the valve stem. I have taken the first spring off the top and there seems to be a lot of oil within the bellows. I pulled down the second lower spring. So now i pull the tapered end over the top? Doesn't seem like it is going to fit. Does the plastic top with the screw head actually come unscrewed? I'm not sure that this piece simply screws off. Can some one confirm?
 
OK, got it off...whew! There is a bunch of gunky oil in the bellows...good, bad, ugly? Is this indicative of another problem?

Just a side note for those reading, Make sure you lube up the guillotine AFTER you get the bellows springs on the plastic head! Its really hard to put the spring on when your hands are all greasy!

Second question...How much xp-s oil should I put on the guillotine and do i have to put oil in the bellows? I'm kinda confused on how this part works...It it pressurized by oil or air(what is flowing through the hoses connected to the front of the body of the RAVE valve unit)? Sorry, I'm a first timer doing this, so I wanna get it right...I have the service manual, it it doesn't cover much on the Rave valves for some reason. Thanks guys!

Oh, and Loctite on the mounting screws when I put it all back together?
 
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No oil, and no loctite.

That will get oiled from the injection oil quickly enough. That is where the black gunk is coming from.

The more gunk it picks up, the less efficiently it is going to work until it eventually just sicks closed and the ski runs like crap.

Replace the O-rings if the bellows are filling with oil.

There is often just a thin layer of black slime in there, but they shouldn't have oil in them.
 
Also clean the slot out that the guillotine slides into. I use an old sock inside out and a screwdriver or 1" wide scraper to slide the sock in and out removing as much gunk as possible.

Guillotine will need to be hit with a wire wheel to get it nice and shiny and silver again. Need to get all that black sticky stuff off, as well as the hard black soot.

It works by exhaust pressure. When rpms get up, pressure builds up, inflates the bellows, opening the RAVE valve, and allowing more power due to opening up the size of the exhaust port.
 
gotcha, so are the valves coming off the side of the housing just releasing the pressure when you don't have it WOT so the valves slide back down and decrease the exhaust opening at lower rpm?
 
Just to continue this discussion. When you re-assemble, how much are you supposed to be tightening down the that cap (white/beige part with the 10mm head), I guess you guys are calling it a bellow. It's just called an exhaust valve on the parts list.

I have had to clean these a lot, but no where in the service manual does it say just how fat those two need to be tightened down.
 
Yeah, I just gave it a solid hand tightening. You're right in that it does not say what torque to put on this.

Some things I noticed:
1. Plastic top for the bellows(im referring to the bellows as the rubber boot connected to the top via spring) is connected to the valve stem. I assume that this has to be fasted pretty well and all the way across the threads since this will be connected to the valve stem, which will be moving up and down.

2. When I took them apart, I really didn't have to muscle it to get it off and I have never personally cleaned them. So, I imagine that it does not have to be too tight, but tight enough so that it won't slip.

Hope that helps!
 
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