relay switch clicking

[usuniversal]

So I am having a problem with my 2003 GTX 4tec. There is a clicking noise that is coming out of the engine bay, right near the top of the engine where what I believe is the starter switch. It makes the noise constantly, about once every 10 seconds anytime the battery is connected, (it does not only do it when pressing the ignition). Furthermore, it is not merely an electrical issue because I can actually feel a small vibration coming from the mechanical switch so it is actually kicking over. Here the thing, unlike most forums I've read, in my case the engine will actually crank and start up just fine. It will even run fine; however, while the engine is running, even then the same clicking will continue. Whatever it is is killing my batteries by constantly draining them. I have already replaced the starter solenoid thinking it was that but nothing changed. It has to be some kind of switch throwing a mechanical ignition of some kind?

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Sounds like the shut off valve (red cicle in picture) is cycling off and on
Should only cycle once key is on post and off after around 10 seconds after removing key from post

I suspect you have a bad electrical contact at the MPEM connector which is common on the older style skis with Mpem low down

Green circle is oil fill point
Put your hand on shut off solenoid to confirm that’s the culprit you should be able to feel it going on and off

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Should of said first put a volt meter across solenoid to see if the voltage is breaking down by the meter cycling like a rev counter‍♂( check max voltage as low voltage may cause cycling too)
If not then your solenoid is possibly bad as I see Seadoo has upgraded them with a new part number

 

[usuniversal]

Should of said first put a volt meter across solenoid to see if the voltage is breaking down by the meter cycling like a rev counter‍♂( check max voltage as low voltage may cause cycling too)
If not then your solenoid is possibly bad as I see Seadoo has upgraded them with a new part number

I just replaced the solenoid though and the same problem continued. I will check into that shut off valve though. If its a bad electrical contact at the MPEM, would I just replace the whole unit? Or just clean the contact?

 

[usuniversal]

Sounds like the shut off valve (red cicle in picture) is cycling off and on
Should only cycle once key is on post and off after around 10 seconds after removing key from post

I suspect you have a bad electrical contact at the MPEM connector which is common on the older style skis with Mpem low down

Green circle is oil fill point
Put your hand on shut off solenoid to confirm that’s the culprit you should be able to feel it going on and off

View attachment 44877

so i checked the shut off valve and unplugged the electrical pin connected to it and reattached the battery to see if it would make that clicking sound. Sure enough the sound stopped. When i put the connector back on the valve the click would start again and i could feel the valve itself vibrate when it clicked. Here are some photos of the pit(looks corroded) as well as the valve. Heres the thing though, yea the clicking has stopped, but now i hear this pulse sound as soon as the battery connects and then continueously every 15 seconds or so. it sounds almost like a fuel pump charging up fuel or something. its a weird sound but i belueve its coning from somewhere up under where the fuel is. any ideas? is that normal?

 

[gazzaskirepair]

Was your key installed on post ‍
Yes sounds like pump but I am sure it only primes line once until start stop is pressed

Pull fuel pump fuse and listen for noise

 

[usuniversal]

Was your key installed on post ‍
Yes sounds like pump but I am sure it only primes line once until start stop is pressed

Pull fuel pump fuse and listen for noise

Ill try to pull the fuse on the pump sure. Do you know which fuse is for the pump? That fuse box is pretty full. Also what do you mean about the key being installed on post?

 

[gazzaskirepair]

DESS key (kill switch key )
http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/...-eabdc414baeb&brands=seadoo,sportboat&type=og

 

[usuniversal]

Sounds like the shut off valve (red cicle in picture) is cycling off and on
Should only cycle once key is on post and off after around 10 seconds after removing key from post

I suspect you have a bad electrical contact at the MPEM connector which is common on the older style skis with Mpem low down

Green circle is oil fill point
Put your hand on shut off solenoid to confirm that’s the culprit you should be able to feel it going on and off

View attachment 44877

So I need to replace the electrical contact at the MPEM since it is corroded and just bad at this point. IS there a way to replace just that connector pin instead of replacing the entire harres assembly? Any idea which part it might be on this diagram? 2003 Sea-Doo GTX 4-TEC Electrical Harness 2 | Sea-Doo Warehouse

 

[Scriz]

Was there any resolution to this issue? I am having the same problem with my 2004 GTX. New MPEM costs about $500, so I am looking at a $20 waterproof killswitch to solve the problem.

 

[Scriz]

So I replaced the MPEM and wiring harness on my 04 GTX 155 and am still getting the same start up sequence. I also changed the rectifier and tried pulling all the fuses listed above recommended to the OP. After changing all of that stuff, the only thing left to change is the ECU. I am keeping this thread alive so others searching for answers can find what doesn't work. I am still using a kill switch in the meantime, but would really like this ski to work like it should.

 

[Smitty3]

Thank you for keeping this thread alive! Is it ok to run the ski with this problem occurring, and just use the cut off switch to protect the battery? Did the battery charge with the ECU problem when you were out using it? Did the ECU change resolve the problem?

I have read a number of posts on this issue, and really appreciate this forum. Thank you to everyone that contributes!

 

[Scriz]

So far I haven't had any issues running the ski with this problem. The cycling doesn't seem to occur once the engine is running. I have not changed the ECU as I am not going to spend another 600 to 1000 to get one. The battery charges just fine while running, or seems to. There is a bit of a hiccup with restarting every now and then, but nothing that has been catastrophic while out on the water. I also carry a charge pack with me in my ski and a rope if everything goes south all at once.

 

[Smitty3]

So far I haven't had any issues running the ski with this problem. The cycling doesn't seem to occur once the engine is running. I have not changed the ECU as I am not going to spend another 600 to 1000 to get one. The battery charges just fine while running, or seems to. There is a bit of a hiccup with restarting every now and then, but nothing that has been catastrophic while out on the water. I also carry a charge pack with me in my ski and a rope if everything goes south all at once.

Thank you for the quick reply. This saved me for Memorial Day weekend. I'll get the cutoff and a charge pack as a work around for at least the season!

 

[Seafresh]

I'm having the same issue described here. Has anyone resolved this issue? My shut off solenoid has some corrosion (see photo), so I'm wondering if replacing this part would fix the issue. Or maybe cleaning the contact points of the plug?

When unplugged, I still hear another noise, also described in this thread. Sounds like it's coming from below the engine. I'm hoping that it's related to the shut off valve issue, and will go away once that's resolved.

 

[Scriz]

If you figure out how to fix this, I am all ears. I have been dealing with this for over a year now. I still run the ski with cutoff switch in the glove box, but if there was a permanent fix that didn't involve a 600 dollar ECU, I would be all over it.

 

[Smitty3]

I agree with Scriz. I solved the issue with a cutoff on the battery.
A cutoff in the glove box sounds much more convenient.
$600 for an ECU is much better than the $900 to $1000 I was seeing.
One thing to check is that the ski is charging when it's running. 13.3 - 14v. If it's lower than that search for the repair related to ski not charging. From memory that was the replacement of a regulator/rectifier and was a low cost job.

 

[Seafresh]

If you figure out how to fix this, I am all ears. I have been dealing with this for over a year now. I still run the ski with cutoff switch in the glove box, but if there was a permanent fix that didn't involve a 600 dollar ECU, I would be all over it.

What cutoff switch did you buy? And did you have to buy extra cable to connect the switch to the battery from the glove box?

 

[Scriz]

I bought one off of Amazon. I think I used the same gauge wire as the stock system run from the battery to the starter. I will get better pictures tomorrow if you want them.

 

[Seafresh]

This is great. Thanks for including the photo. I saw that switch on Amazon as well and will look into this as a temporary solution.

 

[Scriz]

Follow Up: For anyone who has this problem, ECU is the fix. I finally broke down and bought a tested ECU and key off of Ebay. Once I put that in, everything worked like a charm. Now I just have to figure out if there is a market for a almost working ECU, key, and cutoff switch so I don't have to just toss this one.