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Rekindling lost youth...

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colinkris1

colinkris1

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So my wife and I are fighting off middle age by Seadoo! We bought a pair of old timers in need of new hearts.1998 and 1999 SEADOO GTX Limiteds. Both needed a lot of love mechanically as the previous owner ignored the "replace the fuel lines" credo and grenaded one motor and created a lower end rap in the other. I ripped both motors out and sent them to SEADOO Engine Shop to breathe new life into them. They gave me a good deal as I have a "two fer ". The hulls seem to be in good shape and the seats have been reupholstered. I am rebuilding the carbs, replacing fuel and oil lines, flushing the fuel selector valve, replacing the in line oil injection filters, flushing the fuel oil injection tanks and putting in new batteries. I am thinking of replacing the carbon rings and the jet pump wear rings. Any thoughts on those? Also, I am very mechanically inclined, but these are our first PWC(s). Am I missing any other "check this out too" stuff? I am a sponge - enlighten me oh SEADOO gurus!
 
Most of the fuel selector's are better to replace. For some reason after they get it cleaned or deal with the green goo, they suck air through the center shaft seals. Or, they have a plugged passage that affects the main running but not the reserve running.
 
As far as the carburetors go, do not replace the pop off springs if your pop off is correct, even if you get brand-new springs in the kit. Use the original springs if the pop off is correct. Also use only OEM gasket kits. Aftermarket kits have diaphragms that are too stiff and do not work properly.
 
youth is wasted on the young

Welcome from an old-timer, you will enjoy this forum; a lot of helpful and friendly members.

Rod
 
Coastiejoe said:
As far as the carburetors go, do not replace the pop off springs if your pop off is correct, even if you get brand-new springs in the kit. Use the original springs if the pop off is correct. Also use only OEM gasket kits. Aftermarket kits have diaphragms that are too stiff and do not work properly.
Click to expand...

Sounds like something else I gotta learn. The only time I ever did anything with pop off pressure was with diesel injectors!
 
Coastiejoe said:
Most of the fuel selector's are better to replace. For some reason after they get it cleaned or deal with the green goo, they suck air through the center shaft seals. Or, they have a plugged passage that affects the main running but not the reserve running.
Click to expand...

Yup. Gonna replace those too I guess! Just want to have fun not problems! That is why I asked about doing carbon ring and bellows and wear ring for pump. I'm sure it can't hurt to do them but is it likely I need to? Short money but not sure how much work although I'm sure it is less since I have the engines out. Anybody do these as a matter of course? I bought the machines with blown up motors so know nothing about their running status...
 
colinkris1 said:
Sounds like something else I gotta learn. The only time I ever did anything with pop off pressure was with diesel injectors!
Click to expand...

Just a bit different. LOL.

I was a certified diesel tech for the military. Tested, cleaned and replaced MANY injectors in my time.

Lots of good videos on YouTube.
 
Still trying to figure out how this whole site works.... in some ways I can be a genius in LOTS of others - well not so much! Lol will check out the mighty you tube!
 
colinkris1 said:
Still trying to figure out how this whole site works.... in some ways I can be a genius in LOTS of others - well not so much! Lol will check out the mighty you tube!
Click to expand...

I use an app called TapaTalk. Makes using forums very easy. Allows easy inserting of pictures and links as well.
 
colinkris1 said:
So my wife and I are fighting off middle age by Seadoos


im doing the same wirh my older brother, bought a pair of rxp's

215.jpg
Click to expand...
 
colinkris1 said:
Still trying to figure out how this whole site works.... in some ways I can be a genius in LOTS of others - well not so much! Lol will check out the mighty you tube!
Click to expand...

youtube probably has a video on almost all the procedures mentioned on this site, you just need to fiddle around and find the proper search terms
 
Coastiejoe said:
I use an app called TapaTalk. Makes using forums very easy. Allows easy inserting of pictures and links as well.
Click to expand...
We also have our own app that you can download. It's made by tapatalk but allows us to do our own branding!
 
Hello all! I had a couple (2. I think) offshoot posts since this original thread, but I saw someone got scolded for being all over the place - sooo here I am back on my original. I have read LOTS of posts and articles on this site and watched several you tube videos as well. I am DEFINITELY better informed than at the beginning of all this. I have lots to say and a couple question too, but I think you lose people if the post is too long. So I'll cut this one here.
 
I'm baaack! So here's the update. Pulled all the guts out of both skis. The hulls were a mess due to a grenaded motor in one and a leaking oil tank in the other - probably some mold too. I will attach some pics in a bit. I tried the solder iron plastic weld trick on the leaking seam with cracks oil injection tank - and it worked! Scrubbed hulls with degreaser and they cleaned up mint.
 
So - bought all new fuel and oil lines, fuel selectors, in line fuel and oil injection filters, Mikuni kits and needle and seats, stainless hardware for the carbs too. I bought a pop off tester and got some glass mat batteries as well. Learned how to do the pop off test and some other carb tests with it as well. Thank you all for your guidance thus far.
 
Ok here is the most important one to me at this moment. After I sent the motors off to SEADOO Engine Shop, I saw the thread with people's experiences there. Some were good and some were bad. I was told it would be two months, and since the people who had complaints, seemed to have issues with getting their motors back on time, I remained in regular contact every couple of weeks. Well, I can happily report I got both of mine back on the promised date. So far - so good. I got one Friday, unpacked it and looked it over. What I can see looks good. This one was bored .25 over.
 
Okay - today I got the second motor, unpacked it and inspected it as well.
This one is bored .50 over. I can see the piston tops through the plug holes (that's how I know the bore sizes of the two motors). The cylinders look nice with a crosshatch. They both turn over smoothly by hand (plugs are out still). All the holes were making taped over and blocks painted nicely. I have 2 concerns. First, is .25 in the first and then .50 in the second decent practice. I have no clue about how much these things are safely bored to and I am working stock jetting in the carbs. I know some shops re-sleeve to stock bore. Second, look at the next pics to follow. The rod in one cylinder seems to be missing the yellow grease and the rod in the second cylinder seems to have about an 1/8 inch bigger gap between the rod and the crank than the 3 other cylinders. Also, I had bad cases top and bottom and he gave me a repaired set (gratis). It looks like there was a small hole in the bottom that was welded and ground. Repair looks good on the outside (will post pic later) , but I noticed the cylinder with missing crank lube shows a rod injury to the reed valve area. It is a tiny bit humped up and was not ground. Not sure if it is an issue or not?
 
There are 3 pics because I moved the rod from one side to the other to show the gap better on either side (same rod).
 
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