• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Rave valves

Status
Not open for further replies.
Here’s a good thread where they discuss the rave system in detail. Scroll down a bit and Karl gives a good reply on what they do and how they operate...
 
Thanks...Hopefully that may be my problem. I rebuilt the carbs(mikuni kits) and replaced fuel lines. It ran great for 2 or 3 tanks of gas (in 1 day). Late in the day one of the kids riding said it would die when he hit WOT...sue enough it does. It runs fine at idle through mid throttle, but if you pin the throttle it just falls on it's nose and dies.
 
That sounds like a lean seizure to me... Definitely clean the raves, as it should be done on a regular basis anyway, but they aren’t your problem. You need to look at your entire fuel system and make sure there are no air leaks and your carbs are working properly.

Replace any grey tempo fuel line with black automotive line, replace your fuel selector valve and the O-Ring on the fuel water separator, and rebuild the carbs using genuine Mikuni parts.
 
If it falls on it's face and dies like it ran out of fuel, it probably did. If the raves don't open it'll run like it's pig rich on the top end and of course won't run out.
 
I just rebuilt the carbs using Mikuni kits and needle and seats. I replaced all of the fuel lines with clear silicone fuel line. I haven't changed the fuel selector valve or the o-ring on the filter. I'm ordering those now and will clean the raves while I'm waiting on parts. Should I get diaphragms for the raves while I'm ordering stuff?
 
I would Go ahead and order rebuild kits for the raves. You can inspect the bellows before you order parts, as they may be okay, but you’re definitely going to want to replace the gaskets and o-rings...
 
Keep in mind, just b/c you just rebuilt the carbs doesn't mean they aren't clogged, it's easy to miss some of the junk lodged in the low speed passages and just a tiny piece of contamination can clog an orifice enough to restrict fuel in a noticeable way (usually lean hesitation).

And any fuel line inward air leaks will also result in fuel starvation, so pressure checking the fuel system (no need to exceed 5psi) is the test to confirm. The fuel selector valve and fuel/water separator are common trouble makers.

If your RAVE diaphragms aren't damaged, they'll be fine. The shaft O-ring seal might need replacing due to exposure to heat.

I'm not a fan of aftermarket RAVE diaphragms myself, they seem to be stiffer but might still work fine in this case. You may not have a choice of OEM, but if stiffer might not move to the open position quite as well?

Maybe others can comment on this last concern.
 
I’ll second leaving the original bellow in place if it’s still in decent shape. OEM bellows are available, but the design has changed, and even the factory parts (new green) are stiffer than the old (red) bellows. I’ve run both types back-to-back trying to troubleshoot problems, and the new style ones don’t seem to open quite as quickly or early as the originals...
 
OSD is where I generally order factory parts like this. So far, I haven’t seen them sell any junk aftermarket parts at all, and they’ve been super fast and reliable when it comes to shipping...
 
It is a little hard to find individual parts like that on their website... if you do wind up needing bellows, they have a kit with the gaskets, o rings, and bellows as well.
 
Very easy to find parts on the OSD website

http://epc.brp.com

Get your part number....you can click on the # on the fiche and it will bring up the exact part in the list below.

Go to osd

Enter part number

Find part
 
Just make sure you're getting OEM parts. Most of what osd sells is, but they do have aftermarket and some of their own which is good stuff. Just make sure you read everything, especially if you're shopping eBay.
 
racerxxx said:
Just make sure you're getting OEM parts. Most of what osd sells is, but they do have aftermarket and some of their own which is good stuff. Just make sure you read everything, especially if you're shopping eBay.
Click to expand...

That’s a good point. OSD’s rave rebuild kits I believe are OEM, but honestly I’ve never had a problem with any of the OSD branded aftermarket parts they sell either. They seem to be one of the few places that actually make sure the parts they sell actually work as intended...
 
The selector valve was the problem. My new one hasn't came in yet, but I bypassed the valve and it runs like a champ. The kids were on my case about getting it going for July 4th. Thanks for the advice and Happy 4th of July!
 
Your symptoms do not appear to be rav valve associated, engines don't just fall on their face due to rav issues.
 
A little late but you will know if the raves O-ring is bad, you'll have black goo running down from the raves, they get brittle and won't seal the valve stem when they open up and subject to high exhaust pressure but performance not affected. Side note, if you find a bellows on the raves or waterbox that have a small zip tie on the bellows small end the tie lock end sticks up and can wear a hole in the bellows, use a soldering iron to melt it down flatter for clearance and it locks the connection also, if I worded this to make sense. My XP is a 95 limited with metal waterbox valve that did this, don't know how the newer pastic ones are made.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Evinrude XD100
Replies
5
Views
153
mikidymac
mikidymac
J
Cylinder fitment question
Replies
2
Views
502
JuliusCaesar
J
B
RAVE Valve Spring Broken
Replies
2
Views
229
Bassman
B
S
faulty leaking rave valves - low compression
Replies
4
Views
442
Grim
Grim
M
Green RAVE DI solenoid for sale??
Replies
1
Views
175
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top