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RAVE valve stuck....

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andytk5

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rave valve is stuck, got the other out, guy obviously never cleaned these or did the care required, I cant get the back one out, it is totally jammed in the rave slot, i have let carb cleaner sit in it for hours and it still isnt moving even with some tapping etc...

ANybody have any advice??
 
Have you tried dismantling the black and red cap off (unclipping it-watch for the spring) thus exposing the bellows etc and then seeing if anything has blocked or got stuck between the gillotine slide?
If it is stuck due to use, man there must be a s**tload of carbon build up.
How good/bad was the one you got out?
 
Oh yeah, I have the other rave valve totally disassembled and out of the motor, the other is pulled apart all the way down to the blade that slides in the sleeve of the motor,

I have the valve cover off and the cylinder head/plugs off too and I can feel the blade from the inside and there is alot of gunk there too, so it has to be just jammed with gunk, i slid a socket over the top of the valve/threaded end and tapped it with a hammer.. nothing.. thing is frozen...

still soaking in penetrating oil and carb cleaner..
 
i've had success, lightly "prying" with a flathead, either a small block under it for leverage or a wad of towels...
 
Just thought that may be the wrong section..

The stud that comes off the blade broke so Im going to pull the motor out of this, will give me more access to really go through it all since it hasn't been cared for much at all, I will prob get an entire seal kit for the motor along with the new rave blade, much of the paint is flaking off the motor as well and falling into the bilge, so maybe i can strip it and clean it up.

at least it will a piece of cake replacing the oil cable now..
 
i got the updated 'slotted" valve/s if interested, along with a gasket set. send me PM
 
Got the motor out and the valve is still stuck in the head.. Kinda wondering if I should just replace to cylinder head.. I dont know if this is going to come out.

Would this be a cause from over heating or just never cleaning the valves?

Taking it to a shop would prob be as much as just finding a new head..
 
I need to make sure the crankcase doesnt have any problems so i would like to just pull the bottom half of the engine section (under the crank) to clean it out making sure there is no metal fragments, I can do that without needing a degree wheel or reseting top dead center right?
 
you'll need to remove the flywheel, in order to pop the bottom half off, because of the bolts, securing the mag housing.

With the cylinders off, see if theres "any" play to the rods. Rotate it around, make sure nothings grabbing, then fill cavity with oil, to see if "crap" floats up. But considering the RAVE stuck, i'm guessing the ski never was serviced...carbs, raves.
 
Man I have the flywheel puller but this flywheel aint budging!!

I sprayed pen oil on it and everything.. Grrr!!
 
Oh I have... looks like the M6 bolts I got are bending, I need to go back to the store and get some hardened steel M6s with some good washers...

REE DONKULOUS!!
 
Holy lord! Well witht he assistance of some new bolts a long wrench and a slide in reciever hitch for leverage with it strapped to the trailer tongue...

I finally got it off!!! Just thought you guys could use some laughter on that one..
Lord!
 
AH!!! But think of all the fun you'll have in Sunny Florida....where the sun always shines!!!
Then all the grunting and groaning will turn to smiles and laughter when you've got er going!!LOL!
 
Haha!! Yeah that is true! I can't wait till that, but I prob have a while till it warms up here anyhow so best time to do it..

SO I have the motor basically torn down. The bottom end is in 2 pieces with the lower crank cover removed and the engine sitting upside down witht he crank and counterbalance facing up.

One question - the rotary valve gear assembly is still in the motor, but the semi circle piece that turns around opening and closing the intake is off, does that mean I need to reset the timing of the motor? I really wished I had marked it, but in the JOY of getting the flywheel off I time traveled apparently..

Also there seems to be a worn out bushing or seal on the counter balance assembly, next to where the counterbalance gear meets the crank gear..

Is there a way to replace this seal instead of buying a whole new counterbalance assembly?
 
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Cool, thanks man. Doesn't seem too hard to do.

Also to replace that counter balance seal do I need to go back to the store and rent that puller again so I can get that gear off to replace the seal?

Thanks for all the help! I think I have all this mapped out to order the parts and get this puzzle back together.
 
Here are some pics of the issues I've been talking about, maybe add a little color to this thread..

You can see the Gunk on the Rave valve and the bootom end of the motor with trashed oil seal

13.jpg

14.jpg

15.jpg
 
Not what you want to hear.....

The pictures are worth a million words!... I know this is not what you want to hear.

That motor has been flooded and not cleaned. Those seals have been out on your balance shaft and most likely, the one ounce of oil in the cog gears between the two (crank and balance) have likely been run without any oil in it.

There is no reliability left in this engine. I would not dump a lot of money in this motor. It's going to really cost you in the long run.

The cost of the machine shop to press the roller bearings and counterweights alone will cost you more than the replacement cost ($60).

I'd be looking at cutting your loss on this motor, putting it back together and using it as a core trade for a newly remanufactured one. You can find one for less than a grand.
 
Yep, I think I'm with ya after some serious looking, there also seems to be some loose gasket/seals behind the PTO plate, and it has a little crunchy/grinding sound when I turn it around..

Also it almost seemed like there was sand in the little pockets inbetween the crank case sides.. wth??

Oh well, sucks balls but It seems like all in all it will be like 1700 or so invested with dbl trailer and ski.. Good lesson learned, but im still enthused in this project... either stupidity or blind determination... haha!
 
WOW bud....what Snipe said. IF, and its a big "if", SBT has a counter balance for 60 buks, maybe w/ core exchange, if you wanna go that route, or just use them for a complete replacement.
 
I could get a new crank and counter balance from SBT for it as well? or are you thinking the case is bad too? Just trying to do it right but also not spend more than I need to as well, but maybe if the bottom is like that who knows what the compression would be on the cylinders so there your still talking possibly new cylinders.. Eh... crap..
 
andytk5 said:
I could get a new crank and counter balance from SBT for it as well? or are you thinking the case is bad too? Just trying to do it right but also not spend more than I need to as well, but maybe if the bottom is like that who knows what the compression would be on the cylinders so there your still talking possibly new cylinders.. Eh... crap..
Click to expand...

For the money you'll spend on crank/C.B., then taking in consideration, that your jugs only need a hone, your a hundred to 2 hundred bucks shy of a SBT reman with 1yr warranty...?
 
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