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Rave Valve Cleaning

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ezbnme

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Hello Everyone, New PWC Owner.... I just purchased a 1996 Sea Doo GTX. I recently replaced all the Grey Fuel Lines and cleaned Water Sep Filter, Fuel Baffle and Changed Fuel Selector Valve. I will be attempting to rebuild the Carbs this Fall. My GTX seems to Idle Rough and rides rough when accelerating until it hits approx 4,000 RPMS then it shoots out perfect and it will run good at WOT. I just pulled the RAVE Valves to clean them today and the back one came out okay the front one would not come out or move. i had to use pliers to pull it out. The Gullotine was full of muck as well as the opening it slides into. I have a few questions: 1. How will the front Gullotine not being able to move effect performance? 2. How do I clean the area it slides into without dropping muck into the engine? 3. Are the Carbs the main reason for the poor idle and poor mid RPMS? I'm completely new to PWC's and everything I've done so far has been thanks to your posts. ANy help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Hello Everyone, New PWC Owner.... I just purchased a 1996 Sea Doo GTX. I recently replaced all the Grey Fuel Lines and cleaned Water Sep Filter, Fuel Baffle and Changed Fuel Selector Valve. I will be attempting to rebuild the Carbs this Fall. My GTX seems to Idle Rough and rides rough when accelerating until it hits approx 4,000 RPMS then it shoots out perfect and it will run good at WOT. I just pulled the RAVE Valves to clean them today and the back one came out okay the front one would not come out or move. i had to use pliers to pull it out. The Gullotine was full of muck as well as the opening it slides into. I have a few questions: 1. How will the front Gullotine not being able to move effect performance? 2. How do I clean the area it slides into without dropping muck into the engine? 3. Are the Carbs the main reason for the poor idle and poor mid RPMS? I'm completely new to PWC's and everything I've done so far has been thanks to your posts. ANy help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.

the RAVES start to open about 5,000 so will not affect your idle or low end accceleration, that is likely your carbs. I've used a stick or something to push a rag down the slot to clean. if it is really bad you could just take the 12 bolts out of the head cover and remove it and push the piston to the bottom of the cylinder and the crap will just fall on top of the piston and you can clean it out. I've seen others say don't worry about any crap that falls down there as it will just get blown out the exhaust. If you take the head off, be sure to follow the proper torquing pattern when reinstalling as specified in your shop manual. if you don't remove the head cover I would at least remove the spark plugs then rotate the driveshaft by hand to bottom out the piston to make sure anything that falls collects on top of the piston to be blown out the exhaust. once you remove the rave from the slot you can look down the slot and see the piston position.
 
How do I Manually rotate the shaft to get the piston up? Sorry if this is a dumb question......Also, How would you reccommend cleaning the rubber boot under the Top Cap for the Rave Valve and the Cap itself? Carb and Brake Cleaner will probably eat the plastic and rubber up, right?
 
How do I Manually rotate the shaft to get the piston up? Sorry if this is a dumb question......Also, How would you reccommend cleaning the rubber boot under the Top Cap for the Rave Valve and the Cap itself? Carb and Brake Cleaner will probably eat the plastic and rubber up, right?

under your seat, remove the big black air tube, then you will see (depending on your ski) a gray or black plastic cover held on by 2 wing nuts. that is the PTO cover. remove that and you will see the driveshaft. Once you remove the spark plugs you will be able to turn the driveshaft by hand to move the pistons.

Correct, do not use carb cleaner on the rubber bellows. it will clean up fine with just a dry rag.
Also don't miss the small hole in the housing that is held on by the two hex bolts. it's less that 1/8" in diameter and often plugged so easy to miss.
 
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