spx800
Active Member
Are you sure? My DI has regular rave valves with springs.
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R.A.V.E. adjustment went bad
- Thread starter 99seadoogtxltd
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Are you sure? My DI has regular rave valves with springs.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
"My DI has regular rave valves with springs. "
Don't all rave valves have springs to return them to the down (closed) position? Doesn't your MPEM control the rave bellows "air" pressure by energizing a solenoid? In that case, spring tension has almost no effect. Spring tension adjustment does have an effect on systems that don't use the solenoid.
Don't all rave valves have springs to return them to the down (closed) position? Doesn't your MPEM control the rave bellows "air" pressure by energizing a solenoid? In that case, spring tension has almost no effect. Spring tension adjustment does have an effect on systems that don't use the solenoid.
spx800
Active Member
When he said solenoid, i was assuming a cable system which could be controlled. Kind of like APV valves. I wasn't thinking air pressure.
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
Ok, sportster. Maybe I did just turn the adjustment in the wrong direction for even LESS low end power.... it jsut take a mile for it to reach 55 mph. oh and I actually went and started it on the trailer today. it hit the rev limiter at 7140. but will not reach not even 6800 in the water. i have had the ski for about 2 months. it has 70 hours on it. they tell me it has a new motor. and that the jet pump had just been rebuilt. i took the word on this and havent checked behind them. it has the shitty grey fuel lines and the same plugs as when it was parked about 3 or 4 seasons ago. i have no idea if they are gapped right but the guy that does the work on his skis is a really really good mechanic around our small town. he works on jet skis all the time and has about 6 himself. I m sure he gapped them. im sorry for my ignorance. im new to jet skiing. rented them all my life but never owned or maintenanced one. thanks again for all the info you have given sportster. i know im not explaining things with the right terminology. if you wanted to talk cell phones i could spit terminology you could understand bc that is what i have done for a living for 6 years.
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
is that something i can do without messing anything else up??? Im not too savvy with this jet ski maintenance stuff!!!!!
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
in my heart i feel the fuel selector knob should be cleaned bc i can cut the gas off and it will still fire up 90% of the time. it will cut off within a few seconds but it will fire right back up after it cuts off!
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
I need to know how many feet and what size fuel lines to get. and where to get them from. this will be my weekend project.
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
where are some instructions on cleaning the fuel selector?
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
yes. i have the carb 951.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Honestly, I think you should take your ski to the mechanic if you're not already proficient at working on internal combustion engines. I cringe saying that b/c I feel deep down that anyone can do this work but I've seen too many failed attempts, not being sritical, just making the suggestion. I've seen many mechanics screw them up and charge an arm and a leg too, which is why nobody touches my junk anymore(Well, they never did, LOL).
Anyway, to do this job you'll need both 5/16 and 1/4 inch inside diameter fuel line and 15 or 20 of the small stainless steel worm hose-clamps. I'm not sure for the ski, but the boat has I'd estimate about 12 feet of 5/16 and 6 feet of 1/4 inch on the carbs and return line.
You'll have to remove the carbs to change the fuel lines, so may as well rebuild them completely while they're off in order to avoid having to take them off again.
"it was parked about 3 or 4 seasons ago."
Yep, sounds about right. I wonder if someone properly mothballed it or it was rode hard and put up wet? If properly mothballed it's questionable as to the health of the fuel system but if put up wet, a no-brainer the fuel system must be gone through completely. This will require time, patience, and a good selection various tools.
How about the rest of the ski, do all the gauges work? The fuel sender repair could be done more easily if the fuel baffle needs to come out while the fuel lines are off of it. And yes, that fuel selector valve I understand isn't prohibitively expensive to replace unless you want to remove it and purge the trash out of it in all manor of directions with compressed air and cross your fingers by putting it back in. Just make sure it's clean and doesn't have any leaks that can allow air into your fuel lines, air leaking into your fuel lines as the fuel pump draws fuel from the tank is a big-time no-go, just as the gum and goo from those decayed and corroded gray Tempo fuel lines that fall apart and clog fuel filters and tiny carburetor passages leading to engine damage.
A two-stroke engine such as ours needs oil mixed with the fuel as lubricant, lack of fuel means lack of lubricant and leads to ring sticking to cylinder walls, bearings galling and pistons overheating. Don't run your ski out on the water if it's not running correctly hoping it might clear up on it's own, that's a recipe for engine damage. If the fuel has been sitting in that thing for more than a few months it has already begun decaying into a useless sour paint thinner and should not be run through a temperamental high-performance engine or any two-stroke engine for that matter, might get away with running it through an old car if it's mixed with enough fresh fuel and hasn't already turned into skunk urine. Otherwise if skunky, it's questionably suitable as Boy-Scout fluid.
Anyway, to do this job you'll need both 5/16 and 1/4 inch inside diameter fuel line and 15 or 20 of the small stainless steel worm hose-clamps. I'm not sure for the ski, but the boat has I'd estimate about 12 feet of 5/16 and 6 feet of 1/4 inch on the carbs and return line.
You'll have to remove the carbs to change the fuel lines, so may as well rebuild them completely while they're off in order to avoid having to take them off again.
"it was parked about 3 or 4 seasons ago."
Yep, sounds about right. I wonder if someone properly mothballed it or it was rode hard and put up wet? If properly mothballed it's questionable as to the health of the fuel system but if put up wet, a no-brainer the fuel system must be gone through completely. This will require time, patience, and a good selection various tools.
How about the rest of the ski, do all the gauges work? The fuel sender repair could be done more easily if the fuel baffle needs to come out while the fuel lines are off of it. And yes, that fuel selector valve I understand isn't prohibitively expensive to replace unless you want to remove it and purge the trash out of it in all manor of directions with compressed air and cross your fingers by putting it back in. Just make sure it's clean and doesn't have any leaks that can allow air into your fuel lines, air leaking into your fuel lines as the fuel pump draws fuel from the tank is a big-time no-go, just as the gum and goo from those decayed and corroded gray Tempo fuel lines that fall apart and clog fuel filters and tiny carburetor passages leading to engine damage.
A two-stroke engine such as ours needs oil mixed with the fuel as lubricant, lack of fuel means lack of lubricant and leads to ring sticking to cylinder walls, bearings galling and pistons overheating. Don't run your ski out on the water if it's not running correctly hoping it might clear up on it's own, that's a recipe for engine damage. If the fuel has been sitting in that thing for more than a few months it has already begun decaying into a useless sour paint thinner and should not be run through a temperamental high-performance engine or any two-stroke engine for that matter, might get away with running it through an old car if it's mixed with enough fresh fuel and hasn't already turned into skunk urine. Otherwise if skunky, it's questionably suitable as Boy-Scout fluid.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
"it was running perfect other than LOW, low end power."
Dude, it sure sounds like your carburetors and entire fuel system need a thorough going-through. I don't want to discourage you, maybe you can do it yourself and get it right but it's going to require plenty of time and patience, you have to be thorough b/c there are so many items that need disassembly and cleaning, all the fuel ines, the carbs need to come apart and replace the filters and install new rubber parts and stuff to make them operate properly.
I think you came close to engine damage, since it sounds like the ski wasn't running properly until you opened the throttle so far the ski took off like a bat out of hell, that's a sign the small fuel passages in the carbs are gummed up and only the large high-speed ones were working.
Dude, it sure sounds like your carburetors and entire fuel system need a thorough going-through. I don't want to discourage you, maybe you can do it yourself and get it right but it's going to require plenty of time and patience, you have to be thorough b/c there are so many items that need disassembly and cleaning, all the fuel ines, the carbs need to come apart and replace the filters and install new rubber parts and stuff to make them operate properly.
I think you came close to engine damage, since it sounds like the ski wasn't running properly until you opened the throttle so far the ski took off like a bat out of hell, that's a sign the small fuel passages in the carbs are gummed up and only the large high-speed ones were working.
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
Ok, so I talked with a Sea Doo dealership today and they informed me that the valves are open too far and that is causing all the sound difference and no power. I need to close off the valve and the power would be restored and the exhaust would have back pressure again which would make the sound be back to normal. WHEW!!! I was scared the new motor was gone already!!!!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
"the valves are open too far and that is causing all the sound difference and no power."
This is why I asked earlier if the raves are stuck in the up position or if they slide up and down as they should. They can get sticky tarry oil on them and not move freely but if assembled correctly and they move as they're supposed to then adjusting the red cap will have negligible effect on an air-solenoid operated rave.
If the carbs aren't fueling correctly, the engine may be starved of lubricant b/c the fuel carries the lubricating oil with it to the wetted bearing and cylinder wall surfaces. The first indication of this trouble appears with a lean bog condition where the engine isn't making power like it's supposed to.
This is why I asked earlier if the raves are stuck in the up position or if they slide up and down as they should. They can get sticky tarry oil on them and not move freely but if assembled correctly and they move as they're supposed to then adjusting the red cap will have negligible effect on an air-solenoid operated rave.
If the carbs aren't fueling correctly, the engine may be starved of lubricant b/c the fuel carries the lubricating oil with it to the wetted bearing and cylinder wall surfaces. The first indication of this trouble appears with a lean bog condition where the engine isn't making power like it's supposed to.
bigJake
Well-Known Member
when you shut the fuel selector valve off there is still fuel in the lines so it will start back up and run for maybe 30 seconds before the fuel runs out.
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
OK, WOW... I finally had a day off and got to inspect the ski. I removed the RAVEs and they were all tarred up and I got them sparkling clean. Took it 30 miles away to the river and same thing. NO low end power. The very first pass it hit 7000 rpm and 57 MPH after changing plugs and everything. Turned real sharp and BOOOOOM 6700 rpm 55 mph. Went back to the landing and spent an hour adjusting raves in every possible spot and riding after each adjsutment and same ol shit. Brought the ski home started inspecting fuel lines and opened the hood removed the bin and unscrewed my fuel filter (water seperater?) and OMG what a MESSSSSS. Half on the plastic bowl was FILLED with grey GUNK... The filter was so stopped up you couldnt see through it. So needless to say, my problem is the grey fuel lines like everyone has been harping about... I almost shot myself in the foot with my pistol. I got a job to do now guys, Hopefully the carbs will be alright. I will be replacing the lines this weekend. SEADOO OUGHT TO HAVE THEIR A** KICKED FOR EVER PUTTING THESE GREY LINES ON ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Needless to say, Ive learned a lot. I know know how to clean RAVES and always check that filter if RPMs drop. Im on to something now. I know these fuel lines will be a pain in the arsss. Do I really have to remove the carbs to install all the lines? If so, I will go ahead and have the carbs inspected to see if they need to be rebuilt. The guy told me if it was running that good than more than likely the particles have been burned off just to run some seafoam in it. SMH..... Thanks sportster for all your correct info, and also every9one else..
99seadoogtxltd
New Member
97seadooman you were exactly right as well.
- BiRkS_
Active Member
Well i just replaced my lines on a 2000 gtx (same hull) It was easiest to undo the fuel selector, fuel filter, and both lines at the carbs, then unscrew the fuel baffle and pull it out in one unit. (remove the glove box) That way you aren't spilling fuel in the hull from the lines, or trying to fish in new lines. Do it out of the ski where there is room. Honestly, carbs aren't too bad. Remove the airbox, then 4 6mm allen head bolts, 1 6m bolt on the pipe (bracket) and off she comes, then undo the pulse line, and the hardest part is the throttle cable. You have to tilt the carbs almost vertical to get at the screws. Then remove the choke cable, and it should slide right out the side, near the battery.
Now that you see that you have a fuel issue, don't try and cut corners by only changine the fuel lines. At least go through the carbs and make sure the filter is clean. Should really rebuild them and put a carb kit in it. If you do, only use Mikuni parts. Have heard of lots of problems with aftermarket kits.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Dude, keep the seafoam far away from that thing IMO, our fuel today is bad enough without adding more c**p to it! Nothing short of tearing the carbs down is gonna work out, so you're gonna have to bite the bullet and do the whole thing the right way, I'm glad you're headed in the right direction just keep going, take your time and be thorough to get all the junk out of your fuel system.
You'll need to get some kit for those carbs, 2.0 metering needle and seat set, diaphragms, new carb mounting gaskets and all that stuff, go slow pay attention to detail and make sure those nice clean carbs don't get loaded up with more gum and trash from the fuel tank or else you'll have to tear them back apart. It's got to be as clean everywhere as you can possibly get it, no dead gnats or other flotsam sloshing around in your fuel tank.
You'll need to get some kit for those carbs, 2.0 metering needle and seat set, diaphragms, new carb mounting gaskets and all that stuff, go slow pay attention to detail and make sure those nice clean carbs don't get loaded up with more gum and trash from the fuel tank or else you'll have to tear them back apart. It's got to be as clean everywhere as you can possibly get it, no dead gnats or other flotsam sloshing around in your fuel tank.
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