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Question about starting engines on trailer

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BMANN06

Well-Known Member
Hey All,

Is there a problem with starting the engines on the trailer and putting the boat "in gear" and reving up to around 2-3krpm for testing purposes. I've rebuild my pumps, wear rings and installed new impellers etc (thanks to this site and snipes help).

I just want to make sure everything is running okay before dropping in the water, i'm not talking about pegging the tach just a little more rpms than the idle 1500.

Many thanks for your input!
 
You should be ok

It is ok to start the ski or a trailer you just want to be careful that you dont run it too long with out hooking water to the ski to cool the motor. Another thing you'll want to be careful doing it your ware ring i believe its call if you have the motor on for more than a few seconds if could overheat and reak havik, you may want to spary some water pump inlet to get some cooling action for that ware ring.
 
It is ok to start the ski or a trailer you just want to be careful that you dont run it too long with out hooking water to the ski to cool the motor. Another thing you'll want to be careful doing it your ware ring i believe its call if you have the motor on for more than a few seconds if could overheat and reak havik, you may want to spary some water pump inlet to get some cooling action for that ware ring.

Thanks Man,

I would definately have the hoses hooked up, I'll get another hose and get the wifey to spray the venturi to keep that wear ring cool. Many thanks!
 
You can dip on the side ramp and leave it on the trailer to run with the water from the river or lake, with the selector in nuetral the rev limiter stops about 4000 so you can not get crazy anyway like a jetski - this is a good way to feel the warmth of the water system, observe any oil, fuel leaks and you can check the charging system too, just lift the throttle a little bit to get all the juices flowing - when you see something you can try to fix it in the lot and dip again or head home - doing this each spring takes away a lot of breakdown drama.
 
You can dip on the side ramp and leave it on the trailer to run with the water from the river or lake, with the selector in nuetral the rev limiter stops about 4000 so you can not get crazy anyway like a jetski - this is a good way to feel the warmth of the water system, observe any oil, fuel leaks and you can check the charging system too, just lift the throttle a little bit to get all the juices flowing - when you see something you can try to fix it in the lot and dip again or head home - doing this each spring takes away a lot of breakdown drama.

Hey VooDoo,

Thanks for the reply, i can't seem to get much past 2000-2500 while on trailer in neutral. Is it okay to shift to forward and bring it up to 3500 or so while on trailer? Right now the temp is getting warm outside but boat ramps are still frozen. I'm hoping to get a trouble free rig so that in a few weeks when the water opens up i'm good to go.

Cheers!
 
No problem to run it dry for a short period

I have been doing it for years. We do not have rubber impellers to worry about running dry. I start my 717's, idle for 10 seconds or so, shift into fwd and rev to 3500 -4000 briefly. The carbon seal (your shaft seal) is what you do not want to overheat (or the motor). 30 seconds total is fine without the hose. I always do this also just before launching also. I do it on the launch ramp when coming out to blow as much salt water out as possible.

One post mentioned running on the ramp on the trailer. Just remember how we cool, the impeller drives water into an inlet at the top of the fiberglass tunnel just forward of the jet, aft of the impeller. The inlet on the bottom of the boat must be in far enough to pick up water. If water is thrusting out of the jet nozzle you are probably ok.

Never run over 5 min even on a hose or you will overheat the carbon (carbone) seal (your shaft seal). The lake/ocean water serves to cool the seal when you are afloat.
 
If you can not rpm with no load I am thinking you have the ever common lean fuel symptoms - this is solved by checking many fuel lines and replacing any or all of them so you can be assured the fuel is gonna flow under a load, the fuel selector has rubber rings which can be replaced if you are handy enough or the easy way out is just buy a new valve for 25bux, if you find trash in the lines go all the way to the carb screens and clean them as they are the smallest and will plug quickly from stell gas can trash or the fuel line goop that plauges many of the 90's 2 stroke seadoo family - take the time now to solve this fuel mystery and you will be rewarded with at least a few years of fun and no burnt pistons. Mark the oil tank with the date and be sure it is drinking, again overheated pistons will result from lack of oiling, maybe more trouble.
 
If you can not rpm with no load I am thinking you have the ever common lean fuel symptoms - this is solved by checking many fuel lines and replacing any or all of them so you can be assured the fuel is gonna flow under a load, the fuel selector has rubber rings which can be replaced if you are handy enough or the easy way out is just buy a new valve for 25bux, if you find trash in the lines go all the way to the carb screens and clean them as they are the smallest and will plug quickly from stell gas can trash or the fuel line goop that plauges many of the 90's 2 stroke seadoo family - take the time now to solve this fuel mystery and you will be rewarded with at least a few years of fun and no burnt pistons. Mark the oil tank with the date and be sure it is drinking, again overheated pistons will result from lack of oiling, maybe more trouble.

Thank you for the support although, i don't have any fuel problems. All I really wanted to know was if i can put the boat in "F" and rev up the motor a bit. As it appears there is a rev limiter on my boat when in neutral. Both of my motors idle at around 1350-1500 RPM while in water and around 2500-3000 RPM while on trailer.

Many thanks for you input. :cheers:
 
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