Propulsion problems on 1997 GTX

[Kuzma823]

I have a 1997 GTX that is having issues with getting up to speed. If you try to give it a lot of throttle from a stand still then the rpms just shoot up and you barely move. It is similar to a car slipping the clutch or burning out, lots of rpms with barely any movement. Less throttle will slowly get it up to speed and seems to still reach full speed (eventually). It has been like this since the day I bought it (used in 2005) but thought it was the way the ski ran. We have started to tube more and the ski really struggles to get up to speed. Could this be solved by replacing the wear ring?(I have put atleast 50 hours on the ski this year alone)

Also, can someone please explain how a pto works on these skis, could it be the problem as well? Is the pto just an adapter that connects the engine to the drive shaft directly or is it more like a clutch?

Thank you

 

[b15philly]

It sounds like your ware ring needs replacing, Seadoosnipe has the same ski as you and will be able to help you out and better explain ware to go from here.

 

[Bills86e]

Remove the jetpump from ski and replace the wear ring.

No gaskets or orings to buy, you need some 518 and 242 (blue) Loctite though. And an impeller removal tool.

Remove the two 10 mm steering cable and reverse cable bolts. Remove the 4-17 mm Nuts on the pump. Use the venturi as a handle to help remove the pump. Then after you get it off, unbolt the 4-13 mm bolts.

Remove the cone off the pump, 3-8mm bolts. Grasp it firmly, and slowly work it up and down to loosen and pull it off. Make sure you have something to catch the skanky gear lube in. A big metal coffee can or equivalent works great. Turn the pump shaft-down and set it on the can to allow the oil to drain overnight. Leave it outside, or it will stink up your garage or shop.

You need a vise to clamp the flats on the impeller shaft to, and slip the impeller tool into the impeller. If it's the first time off it is going to be a butt to get off. Heat the shaft inside the splines to break the Loctite loose.

Once the prop is off, cut 4 perpendicular cuts @ 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'Clock, just barely making it through the old wear ring. A sawzall with a short metal blade and 1/2" stroke works perfect for this. The grooves loosens the wear ring and it will easily pry out with a screwdriver. Tap the new one in place with a rubber mallet and a 2x4 laid accross the new one.

 

[Kuzma823]

Thanks for the replies. Guess I will start looking into the process, tools, and parts needed to do this project. Thanks for the detailed steps. Also, I have looked at the impeller and it seems fine, no damage.

 

[Bills86e]

The good range is .008 to .040 prop to ring (if you even still have one) clearance.
Your best helper when you own a ski is the Service Manual. Lots of info & pics
for a DYI'r. Disconnect inside compartment three hoses from pump and the drive
shaft boot to PTO metal fastener. After unbolting (previous post) Use a crowbar to gently break the pump free from the hull (its siliconed on at hull) and rock it free,
It should come out straight back, driveshaft & all. HTH's.

 

[Bills86e]

TIP: Put the pump & new ring in the frezzer overnite and it will slip right in.

 

[Kuzma823]

So based on the steps above, can this process be done without the special "seadoo tools". The main thing that stops me from doing this project myself is the fact I might need to spend hundreds of dollars on tools I will only use once(do not know how to weld to make them myslef). Can someone please let me know if and how you have done this process without the seadoo tools?

Looking to pull entire pump, rebuild pump and wear ring, and possibly replace drive shaft and gasket/ring that covers the hole where the drive shaft enters the hull.

Thank you

 

[Bills86e]

If you are handy to remove the pump, replace it by reading the instructions in your service manual, take it to a local shop as the warrantee is worth a pro inspecting
the bearing and installing everything to spec. Its a big handful of money you can
save by doing some of the work yourself. Leave the drive shaft in it so the pro can
affit the seal after he "roll test" it. The engine should be re-aligned and shimmed as
your hull, like all hulls and mounts, have moved from age settlementation. Yes, it
has to be done as incorrect alignment will ruin a new pump, and the 787's crank
bearings. I suggest you let the pro re-install in leu of you trying to do it. HTH's

 

[robin savell lloyd]

I could be wrong but it does appear that the directions were good. No neoprene seal that I see and a locktite sealant would probably work on the nose cone old oring. Correct me if I am wrong. :cheers:

No gaskets or orings to buy????When you take out the pump you ruin the neoprene seal that seals the pump from sucking air. When you take the nose cone off the pump there is an o-ring that needs to be replaced.

Check your prop// your leading edge could be damaged by rocks or other debris and this could also contribute to your problems.