Pressing cylinder sleeve
- Thread starter anesthes
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You know you have to have them machined to fit pistons anyways. Better off letting a shop do it.
And no you can't just use a shop press. You have to heat the aluminum evenly so it expands enough to get the sleeve in an out plus you have to line up all the ports.
And no you can't just use a shop press. You have to heat the aluminum evenly so it expands enough to get the sleeve in an out plus you have to line up all the ports.
I bore and hone blocks in my shop.
On GM and other applications we use a sleeve puller and and press, so I was curious why people were using ovens.
I know some shops use "rod heaters" to remove wrist pins from press fit rods because they don't have the appropriate fixture to do it with a press, so I was wondering if it's that type of scenario.
Does the brp service manual really say to do it that way?
-- Joe
Hrmm. I feel like this is one of those situations where it's because people don't have the shop equipment, but at the same time if the manual does state a recommended method I'd prefer to do it that way.
Even so, if the preferred method is heat, the manual surely would indicate the appropriate temperature. I'm not a huge fan of heating up aluminum heads/jugs/cylinders to over 350 degrees in any circumstance.
-- Joe
DanSquires
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Heat is the preferred method. 400 degrees for half an hour, and they typically slide right out.
when you place the new sleeve in, the heated cylinder allows you a minute or so to get the ports in perfect alignment, nearly impossible to do with a shop press.
when you place the new sleeve in, the heated cylinder allows you a minute or so to get the ports in perfect alignment, nearly impossible to do with a shop press.
all this sounds very easy lol ,
im using same sleeves and original pistons from same running motor ( i need to change rotted aluminum cylinder part) do i still need any machining besides top decking ?? running motor had 150 psi and pistons look great no scoring,, these are stock standard bore, ill get new rings .
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
Yes.
Because they are being heated and cooled and going into a different cylinder so there is a good chance they will get pinched in a different cylinder athen will not be perfectly round anymore. But if you want to roll the dice then go for it. You asked what you should do and we told you what you should do.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
If you knew how to properly hone and size a cylinder to a piston, you wouldn't ask this question. Final honing a cylinder is a whole lot more than putting some hatch marks in an X pattern with your 3 jaw stone harbor freight honing tool for 19.99
Piston to cyl clearance is .005"=ish. roughly 8 times thinner than the average human hair. But go ahead, stick the cylinder in your kitchen oven and have a go.
I prefer a ball hone then I can't mess anything up and break those stupid little stones, LOL.
lol ,asking why .and what needed to be done besides decking, and honing , checking for straightness was the missing info i needed , but isnt specific to seadoo only(basically what i was asking). i do know about that and understand why after heating up the parts ,even getting a new cylinder..etc etc i wont take a chance on ruining a bunch of parts etc. . i dont have a machine shop. so no need to hear or record all 1000's or 1,000,000 i dont have.... i will try the sleeve swap i have six cylinders and will try on two im not going to use first, and i can hone the cylinders that is a piece a cake.. i was always told dont be just a parts changer. this is why i ask .sorry, plus i need to know what to tell the machine shop i choose what i want done. didnt know if seadoo needed a special procedure but i do now . thanks much .
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
Swapping the sleeves can be easily done, if there hasn't been water intrusion between the cylinder and sleeve. When that has happened, however, things do go sideways. But the longevity of your engine is all in the machining and tolerances. Just like a crank.. you can have $1000 in bearings and rods, but if it's not true it's thing wont last 5 minutes.
I'm all for building on the cheap... but just because of the nature of metal, heating and cooling to 400 degrees changes things.
No problem at a,, we aren't trying to give you a hard time. We just want you to have a ski that you enjoy instead of bashing a seadoo as a piece of junk. There is no harm in trying to save some money and see if it works and a lot of the time it will.
If it was me I would do the sleeve change yourself then take the cylinders and pistons to a machine shop you trust and pay them to measure everything to make sure it's within tolerance. If there is enough meat then have them hone it. Keep in mind that with used parts there might not be enough material left to hone and keep the tolerances wthin spec.
Too many cylinders out there to buy cheaply and me bore them than go through the expense and PIA of replacing the sleeve. Too much work for no gain.
I suspect the procedure calls for the use of an oven is that most people don't have a press. My preference would be to heat the cylinder and drop the sleeve into position. Less chance of getting it it crossed up and "out of round" The press has no conscience at all just brute force which is great when needed.
I wonder if the sleeves come machined to standard bore size with boring not needed for a stock piston. If this isn't the case... I will NEVER resleeve a two stroke Seadoo.
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