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Possible bad shaft and PTO

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CAVERJIM

CAVERJIM

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Ok so I greased my PTO's on both ski's and went for a ride this past sunday well my ski cavatated and vibrated a few times but was ok. Well after talking with a guy who parts them out for a living today he said it sounded axactly like shaft had a bad spot and was slipping SOOOO. I may be taking that one apart and checking it out. What are the recomendations of you guys on exactly how to go about it. I will buy an alignment tool to do the job. This ski had its engine out and built so the engine may not be aligned properly and that caused the problem to start with. Boy jump into the deep end of the pool, I guess If you dont want to work on a jet ski then dont buy one at all is all there is to that. :willy_nilly:
 
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If the engine was out, a mount was broken or replaced, it NEEDS to be aligned. This is VERY important. It will cause premature failure of the shaft splines as well as vibrate and cavitate in most cases.
 
Ok I want to get the alignment tool ebay has it for 175.00 is that the cheapest anyone knows of? going to tare it all down tonight. How do you remove the carbon seal wear ring off the shaft?
 
There is a cheaper place and it is a quality tool. [MENTION=31048]LouDoo[/MENTION] knows the name. It is where I bought mine, just don't recall the company name.

If you don't want to buy one, I rent mine out pretty much at cost.


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Ok guess i am buying a SBT alighnment tool for 149.00. I did manage to get the carbs off today and they needed cleaning very bad. Im guessing that all the settings will be off when they come back from the shop. I know nothing of how to adjust carbs.
 
PTO SIDE
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16.jpg

Impeller side.
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18.jpg
 
No seal will cause cavitation.
If you have some significant lateral movement in the drive shaft after you get it back together you will have to loosen the motor mounts and slide the engine back to take most of the slack out of the drive shaft. It will also make the carbon seal seat better.

Also, make sure not to forget the rubber drive shaft end bumpers.

Carbs: I highly recommend if you are going to clean them, install genuine mikuni carb kits with new needle and seats.
Pop off pressure is 23 to 43psi. I have a pop off tester that you can borrow if needed.
High Speed screw setting is 0
Low speed screw setting is 1 turn out.
 
Carbs sre going yo Whites cycle and marine to be rebuilt and cleaned hopefully they will be right when they come back.
 
CAVERJIM said:
Carbs sre going yo Whites cycle and marine to be rebuilt and cleaned hopefully they will be right when they come back.
Click to expand...

Have done business with them buying parts but have never had service done there. Had a colleague take his DI there and they fixed it right, but was expensive.

Let us know how it comes out.
 
Don't ask them any questions on these ski's they can't answer them and when they do its wrong. But they screw my carbs up they will make it up.
 
After pulling carbs and now the shafts and pumps my nerves of having to work on these things is gone. I feel pretty comfortable around them now. I have a long beard is my only problem. It ends up in oil and grease or in the projects.
 
How should Prop end of shaft be lubed just a good high temp super tach grease. I was told that you put it all back togeather shaft in prop and then slide it back into PTO is this correct. What is excessive for end play on the shaft?
 
I found grasses stuck in the front of shoe in disasymbly this could have been my vibrations floating debris catching on the prop. also seen alot of orange permatex on everything in the outside parts from where this ski had its engine done. They put it on the bolting end of the grate, which I can see vibration dampening helping but wow it was evrywhere probably 20.00 dollars worth.
 
CAVERJIM said:
There is less than 1/8 inch end play on shaft.
Click to expand...

That is perfect. Is the carbon seal aligned with the stainless ring? Does it take a good effort to pull it back off the stainless ring?

As far as lube goes, I use what ever is in the grease gun. (get my grease from tractor supply) Just need to make sure to service it regularly. I do mine once a season usually during winterization. I grease the PTO during winterization and middle of the riding season. Some say to use waterproof marine grease...thought all grease was waterproof. ;)

The beard thing...can't help you with that. :)
 
OK dealer says 1996 GTX did not have a seal on the pump he said just put it in bold it up. He told me if I wanted to put some RTV on it that it would be fine. Nope, sorry, I want A seal so does anyone know what size the seal should be for the 1996 GTX pump?
 
If you're talking about the neoprene seal to seal the pump to the pump support plate you want part# 293200024

Yes, your ski needs one. I put them on every ski. RTV is whack.


545.jpg
 
There are a couple models which say they don't need it, I think that one was one of them. But like racerxxx said, put one on to prevent any cavitation
 
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