Picked up new Spark, have a couple observations

[alha]

Well, on Thursday I finally picked up my new Spark, over a month and a half late, but at least I got it. It is a 2 up 90hp IBR model. First impressions, it's light, nimble, def rides rougher than a glass ski in chop, but that is to be expected, and Really fun to toss around. The one thing that I noticed, and was looking for opinions for others that own one, is regarding acceleration. Doing a hole shot, it seems that I get more noise than acceleration, at least till it hits it's (for lack of a better term) power band. I know this is a 4 stroke, but until it gets the revs up and moving 5-10 mph, it's more sound than fury.

I've only ridden it for a couple hours, so it isn't broken in yet, and I haven't ran it in sports mode, though I thought all that did was allow it to produce more power by allowing it to rev higher. What has your experiences been with your Sparks, especially those with 90hp IBR setups? Maybe it's just not broken in yet, maybe it's because I haven't had it in sport mode? Or maybe that is the way it is? Thoughts, folks?

 

[Off-road]

Sport mode will definitely change your mind about take off.

 

[Sarge707]

It is definitely More noisy than my 4-Techs and especially in touring mode upon acceleration.
Once you put it in Sport mode and hit the throttle All you will hear is the thing jumping out of the water 3 times before it tears off!
I did that a few times in front of the crowded beach along the river today just to show then the Spark can Jump at will. LOL

 

[alha]

Good to hear that, thanks for the reassurances. Another 4-5 hours keeping it low key, then an oil change with full synthetic oil, and its time to kick it up a notch and see what she's got in her.

 

[cheappc]

Sport mode is sick a completely different beast. I was out Saturday a couple of hours just loved it, this time 50% of the time in Sport mode what a blast.

 

[alha]

Wow, found out something tonite that has me a bit upset. I was on another spark forum, a few members have had issues with their sparks, so they decided to start a thread which is trying to narrow down problems by mfg dates. Just put in the type (2 or 3 up, IBR, etc), build date, and the problems you've had with your unit (if any). People asked how to tell the build date, and it was stated that the last 3 digits in the number above the RH sponson were the month/year of mfg.

I thought Huh, might as well verify mine was made in June, as I was told that it was just made, and was one of the last ones off the line this year. Well, I checked it out, and mine was made 4/14. Hmm. I had been waiting almost 2 months past it's promised due date to show up, and it turns out that it was actually made about when it was supposed to have been, sometime in April, for a early-mid May delivery (was ordered in January). So it looks like I have been lied to. Not exactly sure which direction to point the finger, but someone sure wasn't honest about the situation. Not happy at all with them at this moment, and plan on calling customer service at BRP tomorrow morning, to see what they have to say. Needless to say I'm less than impressed, and not sure what they would do for me, but it would sure be nice to hear an honest explanation of what actually happened.

 

[JoeZ]

That's not completely accurate...

The last 4 should tell you the date. Letter for the month, number for the year, two numbers for the model year.

IE: F414 would be June of '14, model year 2014

What are your last 4?

 

[alha]

Really? Ok, it is F414, so the F indicative of the month? Then my F would actually indicate June. If that is true, then I guess I'll just shut up... :blush:

 

[JoeZ]

Yep, another thread talking about SeaDoo VINs. I couldn't imagine them sitting on a unit, only the possibility of swapping from another dealer that had your options in stock. But back to the original topic, once you activate that sport mode, it'll instantly install a smile on your face.

 

[alha]

Thanks much for the heads up, it would have been an embarrassing call. You know what they say about a little knowledge being dangerous and all that. I am so looking forward to dropping the hammer on this thing and having it jump out of the water. Can I ask your opinion about 2 things? I am planning on changing my oil after the break in at 5 hours, because I have always wanted to get the stuff that comes off during break in, as well as any casting sand, etc out of any engine I purchase new, cars, generators, etc. Been told multiple times it really isn't necessary, but am always told when I ask that it can't hurt, if the engine is truly broken in. Just don't switch to full Syn until it has. Do you think that a 5 hour, not exactly treated tenderly break in period would be sufficient to break in the rings, and allow me to do my switch to full syn oil? The stuff sure isn't cheap, even the non-syn stuff, so I'd prefer to do it just once, and get the straight syn in it as soon as possible. Thoughts?

 

[Off-road]

I have two skis with 30 hours. I also want to change the break in oil. I changed the first one yesterday and really wasted my time and money. The oil and the filter looked brand new. I am going to wait until I do the other ski. Maybe until end of summer.

 

[alha]

I suspect that it would look pretty new, because unless something is going terribly wrong with the fuel system, there shouldn't be any contaminants visible in the oil with so few hours. My concern is the microscopic stuff you can't see, getting as much of that stuff out as possible. One thing I didn't realize till I picked it up was that you can't drop the plug and drain the oil like in a car, you have to suck it out. Found that kind of weird, though I suppose unless you have built in some sort of access panel in the bottom of the unit, the only way to do it thru the plug is to pull the engine, which obviously is a sub-optimal solution. Not sure how much of the crap you can get off the bottom of the oil pan by sucking it out, but I'll do my best. Do you think that it is broken in at the 5 hour mark, at least in terms of ring seating? I've heard that is the main issue going from partial to full syn, ring seating, and it goes much slower if you put in full syn before they have fully seated.

 

[Off-road]

I am sure there are many debates about break in. I bought two new 4 stroke engines in the last couple of years that stated 12 hours break in. The oil and filters were clean in those as well. I do take the filters apart and look for metal.
I waited 30 hours although they suggest 100. I am probably doing the other ski at 50 and will do,same inspection then.
Todays engines in vehicles are going 7-8,000 miles between changes. We have better air and oil filtration systems now that enable this.
I am still old school but am trying to believe in the new way.
Time will tell.

 

[Sarge707]

I Extracted 2 Quarts at 20 hours (Left filter In) after I returned from the river and it took 5 minutes to drain- Put in 2 quarts Valvoline 5-40 Syn. API SN and will change the filter with oil in the Fall. I just wanted Synthetic for the rest of the season.

 

[alha]

Ok, one more thing I'd like opinions on. I was going thru all the paperwork I received with my Spark, and they included a couple sheets that list some dealer services, 1st tuneup as well as an option for them to winterize and store it for me this fall. The other one was a initial 1.5 hour check over. After reading it over, it appeared to be basically looking for things that the factory missed, loose hoses, etc etc, as well as recording the hours of the unit. They want to charge me $142 for this 'service', and I'm kinda, well, I don't know.. I guess the way I see it, if they feel that there is a need to check their work on a brand new unit, then they should pay for it as well. Is there any downside down the road for me to avoid this check over, and just wait till have the oil changed at 5 hours or so, and if they have it opened up, should I be required to pay for them to give it the once over? Or is it really needed? Thoughts?

 

[Sarge707]

They are making up the 1.5 hour check to get some additional $$$ from you? No need to change oil at 5 hours either? Check your owners manual and you will see the first service is Not till 50/100 hours or the end of the season. Did they also charge you Freight and dealer prep? If you take the top off at the end of the season you can easily change the oil and winterize it yourself. Just buy the filter from the dealer and keep a receipt of the oil you bought to put in- It does Not have to be BRP oil -Just 5w40 or 10w40 with an API of SN.

 

[alha]

I kinda thought that may be it, I doubt there is anything in the warranty stating that this check has to be done for the warranty to be valid, and if it is required so soon after purchasing it, it should be at no charge. I know they don't make a lot on the sale of these sparks, but sheesh. I got a boat show special and didn't pay freight, but I do want to change the oil to straight syn oil after the rings break in. I know it technically isn't required, but I'm a little old school, and have done it for most of the engines I've purchased new. Cost isn't that great, only 2 quarts of oil and a filter, and I'll know I've done what I can to prolong it's lifespan. I did purchase BRP oil, as if there are any oil related issues, I can point it right back at them, and as I said, it's not _that_ much money, it's not like I change the oil weekly or even monthly.

 

[JoeZ]

There is NOTHING stating this needs to be done. Sparks are low margin items, so they are trying to make up some profit by telling you to bring it in. Not the first time I've heard of this and it's really shameful.

 

[alha]

Yeah Joe, that's kinda what I had thought. Well, I'll just do my thing and then bring it in at the end of the season for the 50 or whatever hour it'd be scheduled for. If there is any issues with it, then they can deal with it under warranty. Pretty poor on their part, I agree. Pays to pay attn, though, and to ask questions of ppl who have been around the block before.