P-fault codes 2007 GTX Limited

[SeaDooNaples]

I recently purchased a 2007 GTX Limited with 45 hours on it, in like new condition. Previous owner took very good care of it, and has not used it in the last year. I've taken it out 3 times and it ran great, now up to 49 hours. The last time I took it out the low gas light came on. Today my brother wanted to use it, so he filled it with gas and it ran fine in idle. When he went to accelerate ski would not power up, engine made a loud noise and power off. It restarted easily and he was able to idle back into the marina, but not accelerate or it would shut off. It also burned through 1/2 tank of gas idling for a little over an hour. The time before it seemed to be burning more gas than usual but was running it hard 60 mph range so I did not think anything of burning more fuel. He said it was giving him P0116 and P0117 which are faulty engine temp sensor and engine temp sensor shorted to ground. Any idea what would cause this?? My brother thinks it may be an issue with needing coolant. I'm just wondering if this may be an easy fix, or if I should have a mechanic look at it.

 

[red2blue]

Uhm...what does the resevior level look like?...anyone looked at those plugs recently? Why was it idling for over an hr when it was obvious it wasn't running properly?

To knock one thing off the check list...look at your thermostat.

Easy enough to remove using the boiling water poured slowly over the housing while turning the cap with some channel locks...method...heh.

 

[SeaDooNaples]

It idled fine for the 30 minutes it takes to get to the gulf, and did not recognize there was a problem until he went to power up in the gulf. He said it restarted fine, and idled the 30 minutes back in fine. Mechanic thinks the supercharger is cracked, but won't know for sure until tomorrow when he removes cylinders. He is estimating a $1000 repair to replace the supercharger Wondering if something was wrong with supercharger when I bought the ski, would I still have been able to run it around 60 mph?

 

[red2blue]

OMFG! run away from that "mechanic".

Yeah....well...you'da been around 6-7K rpm with the clutches gone...that's the main reason everyone says to see 8100 at wot before you buy.

You don't have to remove cylinders to remove the sc...someone's trying to rip you off.

 

[SeaDooNaples]

So it is way worse than I imagined. Just got back from looking at jet ski and there is more issues with it than the sc. I might now have everything correct, I don't know a whole lot about engines. But the clamp which held the coolant hose on was corroded, and it broke off so all of the coolant and oil went into the bottom of the ski. Ceramic washers broke and caused a lot of damage to the engine, and ruined a gasket. They are currently saying they can repair the ski for $2500, and then he said the steering cable was going bad and its only a matter of time before that needs replaced to, which he said would be a couple hundred. So by the time I add labor and parts to repair engine and steering cable I'm probably around $3000, and I only paid $6200 for the ski. They are offering me a $1000 for the ski as is, if I buy a new sea-doo. I'm just really at a loss right now as to what I should do. I already will owe them several hundred for the hours of labor which has already been put into it. The engine is all taken apart, so I don't even think it's worth getting an estimate from somewhere else. Should I pay the money to have it fixed and just hope nothing else breaks, or fix it and try to sell it asap and put that money towards a new ski??? I just don't think I'm willing to take the $1000 for it, the ski only has 49 hours on it. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[red2blue]

So it is way worse than I imagined. Just got back from looking at jet ski and there is more issues with it than the sc. I might now have everything correct, I don't know a whole lot about engines. But the clamp which held the coolant hose on was corroded, and it broke off so all of the coolant and oil went into the bottom of the ski. Ceramic washers broke and caused a lot of damage to the engine, and ruined a gasket. They are currently saying they can repair the ski for $2500, and then he said the steering cable was going bad and its only a matter of time before that needs replaced to, which he said would be a couple hundred. So by the time I add labor and parts to repair engine and steering cable I'm probably around $3000, and I only paid $6200 for the ski. They are offering me a $1000 for the ski as is, if I buy a new sea-doo. I'm just really at a loss right now as to what I should do. I already will owe them several hundred for the hours of labor which has already been put into it. The engine is all taken apart, so I don't even think it's worth getting an estimate from somewhere else. Should I pay the money to have it fixed and just hope nothing else breaks, or fix it and try to sell it asap and put that money towards a new ski??? I just don't think I'm willing to take the $1000 for it, the ski only has 49 hours on it. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Now that the news is really so much worse than before....you're asking for advice on what course you should now follow? I'm not offended....just picture me shaking me head in chagrinned silence. Maybe someone else has a decent idea/course for you to follow. Sorry for your luck. I'd be hunting down the guy that sold me that ski.

 

[SeaDooNaples]

So received copy of estimate today.
2 Clamp-Tridon $8.98

4 Coolant 50/50 P $29.96

1 Valve Cover Gasket $22.49

8 Torx-Reduced Shaft Screw $79.92

1 Cylinder Head Gasket $93.49

1 Pump Shaft Assy $61.99

1 Outer Rotor 16MM $34.49

1 Oil Pump Housing $107.99

1 Oil Pump Cover $30.99

1 Supercharger Assy. $860.99

3 4T 10W40 Premium Service $18.15

1 Filter Oil $11.99


Parts Subtotal $1,361.43


Labor Subtotal 8.5 hours: $849.92


Total: $2,211.35



3 Spark plugs: $13.26


Steering Cable: $162.49

2.5 hours install: $249.98


Total: $412.47


Parts: $1,537.18

Labor: $1,099.90


Total: $2,637.08


States this estimate is only good if they don't find a cracked head.

He says at this point he can't tell if the head is cracked until he finishes removing the engine. The labor is $99.99/hour and I already owe around $800, so I don't really think it's worth me getting estimate from another place, by the time I pay him to put it back together without fixing. How likely do you think it would be that I have a cracked head, and he can't tell by now? He also told me he thought the supercharger was fine originally. Would really appreciate some more input. Just trying to figure out if I'm in over my head on this one. Does anyone know if the head is cracked how much more money that's going to be? So stressed...don't even feel like I can make a decision, and they want me to let them know tomorrow afternoon.

 

[red2blue]

Right off the top of my head...an sc rebuild kit goes for around $350. Does it require an entirely new SC?

Have you gone to look at your ski since this guy started working on it? Because...no offense here....but I'd wanna see for my own eyes exactly what he's trying to sell me.

 

[ski-d00]

The estimate is inflated and they shouldn't have 8 hours in it just to take the pto housing off. That's how some dealers make a living. I wouldn't let them work on it and I wouldn't pay 8 hours labor. Go look at the ski and see what they have done but don't tell them you're coming. We can give you the official BRP labor hours to do what they have they done so far and I guarantee it won't be 8 hours. Don't have them put anything back together, just take it as is but make sure they give you all the parts, every last bolt.

If you have them work on it, they will next say that the head is cracked/warped something and it will be another $2k. However, this is entirely possible if it was run without any coolant for 30 minutes. The problem isn't the seller from you bought it from, they couldn't predict when a corroded clamp would fail. The problem is whoever was riding the ski, a simple look under the seat with a large pool of antifreeze would have been a small clue not to keep running it.