Ok I need the big guns on this one...Snip, Dr. Honda?

[needforspeed]

Ok I need the big guns on this one...Snipe, Dr. Honda?

Ok, I have a 89 SP that has no spark. The engine is totaly rebuilt while it was apart I tested all the ignition parts as decribed by the shop manual with the multi meter (all checked out ok) Now I put the engine back in, get everything situated and I crank it over to make sure all my conections are good. I have a spark tester (it is a spark plug boot with a lightbulb in line to a post which is the same size as the spark plug post) so I put the Spark tester in line with the plugs and it is all hooked up. I crank the motor and the light blinks on every rotation of the engine(which indicates spark) So I am pretty confident I have spark. So I hook everything up put the ignition housing cover back on and get all my fuel lines run and carb on and fuel her up. I crank her over and no start. I check for spark again and I still have the light. Try to start it again .....nothing. So I take out a plug and hold it against the engine and crank....no spark on the plug even though my light is telling me I have spark. No I have new boots and I trimmed the wire about a 1/4 of an inch. I am confused because something is telling that light to light and that usually indicates voltage . Now on a hunch I pulled the lanyard off where there should be no spark. I crank it and the light is lighting like it should be sparking. I am stumped. It is obviosly electrical but I don't know where to start. Where would you guys start? cdi? coil? stator? Flywheel, Electrical box? Help!!! I am so close to getting theses things in the water. I also have a 90 SP which I did all the same thing to I basically restored both boats so I am ready to dunk the 90 in the water it starts and runs but now the 89 is breaking my balls with the spark. Please help and give me a place to start.
oh the one thing I am hoping for is this, when I went to buy plugs for it, I asked for NGK BR7ES all they had waas B7ES the guy told me the "R" was for resistor and it only had to do with electronics interference. I do have the correct plugs in now but I had the other ones in for this testing.

 

[needforspeed]

so last night after work I changed out the cdi and wala I got spark. So I put everything back together and the thing won't start. Then as I am looking at other things and making sure all connections are tight, I try it again and I got spark and it fires right up. Then dies and no spark again. now I don't have spark. I think it is a loose wire somewhere. Do these old sea Doos have a limp mode? Who ever had it years ago, disconnected the horn buzzer and put in a temp guage which I left in so there wasn't a big hole in the dash/ hull. I was thinking that if the buzzer went off cause it was hot it maybe had a spark interruption so you don't kill the engine? I know some outboards do that so you can at least get back to the dock. The white wire coming from the buzzer is just open ended and not hooked up to anything. The wire from the temp sensor is hooked up to the temp guage. If these older doos have some sort of limp mode I am wondering if maybe that is part of my issue. Also the rectifyer is loose the bolt that goes through th middle of the rectifyer just spins in the plastic so it only gets so tight. I have a new Ebox and wire harness on the way so I will swao it out when it gets here and see what happens.
__________________

 

[Dr Honda]

Nope... no limp mode.


Sounds like there is a loose connection somewhere.

The spec for all seadoo's is a resistor plug... but I don't know if it would cause any low speed issues. Normally, without the resistor, at high speed... you flow too much current in the spark wires, and that can mess up the CDI. The normal issue is it will start to miss fire. But who knows... on the old Yellow engines... the CDI is mounted next to the coil, and the EMF from using a non-resistor plug could have burnt it out.

To be safe... I would put resistor plugs back in it.

 

[needforspeed]

Nope... no limp mode.


Sounds like there is a loose connection somewhere.

The spec for all seadoo's is a resistor plug... but I don't know if it would cause any low speed issues. Normally, without the resistor, at high speed... you flow too much current in the spark wires, and that can mess up the CDI. The normal issue is it will start to miss fire. But who knows... on the old Yellow engines... the CDI is mounted next to the coil, and the EMF from using a non-resistor plug could have burnt it out.

To be safe... I would put resistor plugs back in it.

Yeah that is already done (resistor plugs) It has never gotten to high speeds. I think it is the rectifyer all wires that go through that bolt that holds it to the Ebox are loose. the plastic threads are stripped and I it doesn't get tight. I would be cautious calling it snug. But I do have a different complete Ebox coming with a new rectifyer and a different wire harness. So Dr. Honda, if the buzzer is disconnected that should not do anything to the spark? On the Ebox that is in there now, there is a thin threaded bolt through the top of the box and one of the wires from the solenoid is attached to it. So this bolt is "hot" coming from the battery terminal. I don't know why anyone would put that there. I am going to wait on UPS get this other Ebox and change out al the electrics frome outside the ignition housing. New wire harness and new Ebox and see what I come up with. I hope that takes care of the problem. Man whoever worked on these skis in the past was a complete butcher !!!!!!
I am close to having them straightened out I just need time. My goal is to get them in the water this holiday weekend. If I have spark even though right now it is intermitten, I am thinking stator and flywheel are good...no? It just seem like when I move the electrical box I get spark sometimes. Also someone in the past had cut the wire harness and put some type of quick connect plug. I am not to keen on that set up either. I am really hoping that this other Ebox and complete " intact" wire harness is the answer.

 

[Dr Honda]

So Dr. Honda, if the buzzer is disconnected that should not do anything to the spark?

Well... the buzzer it self doesn't have anything to do with the ignition. BUT... the power for the "Engine speed limiter" is connected though the buzzer.

The tether switch is the main power controller in the system. When you put the cap on, it flows power to the buzzer, and the speed limiter, but the connection back to the speed limiter was on the buzzer. SO... power needs to be on the red wire of the speed limiter when the tether is on the kill switch.

 

[needforspeed]

:banghead:It was the speed limiter. I disconnected the wire like you said and it fired off good. Had to pull the plug wires to shut it down. I pmed you Dr. Honda but wanted to put this on the original post in case it can help someone else.
Thank you far all your help. I was