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Ok guys I need your advice!!

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They will hold a bunch of water in the lower end. I would forget about a compression test. Crank it for 10 second bursts with all plugs out for 3 or 4 times and let it cool the starter. Then do it again until you don't see much water coming out. Then put in clean plugs and try to start it. You may need to prime it. The water will leave quickly once running. But chances are the water has messed stuff up in the lower end. You may get lucky. But you need to get it started soon or it will just be a rust ball in the lower end.

Hang on, raining in SoCal???
 
Did they say when the brit desk transacted? Like a day ago? How long had that water been in there?

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No idea, I guess worst case I rebuild the motor or buy a rebuilt motor. I'm bummed cause the ski looks like it has 10 hours on it


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I'd pull the carbs and get a look at her bottom end. If the crank is rusty you're just wasting time.

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Well, either pull it out bust out the hole saw. I'd rather go thru the labor to get a visual.

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Yea I sank my doo three times and completely got all the water out each time.. I did 5 second bursts on the starter, and it took close to 10 times for me to be 100% sure all the water was out.. And MAKE SURE to fog it every time! Is there a pulse line on there like the seadoo shave that goes from the engine to the mag carb. If so, I would disconnect that as well and put a towel on the side where it will spit out.. It'll help get the water out quicker and not let as much of it get into the carbs.. That stuff was POURING out of my pulse line as well
 
It won't last forever, so I would keep doing it until a you can literally place a white paper towel over one of the cylinders and not get any more gew when cranking. How many times have you done it total? And can you please post a vid of it? Judging from my 3 experiences, it would help if I could see the AMOUNT of water coming out
 
If that water has been in there a while the bearings are probably corroded and pitted. The risk you take of firing it up and running it like nothing happened as opposed to tearing it down and replacing the crank is, it might eventually toss a rod out the side of the engine case. Then the case will be ruined, of course.

So it's hard to say at this point which way things might go but don't get your hopes too high. If you don't get the motor running, thus dried out, soon after it was water-flooded, the bearings will be ruined.
 
So F ME!!!!!!!!! I got the mother****er running!!!!!! I ran it for like 3 minutes, probably too long, but I wanted to get the water out!!! I'm freaking out right now though. This is awesome! I paid 400 for this ski and it's like new

I can't find a place to hook it to the hose??!!


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Great! Does it still have the oil tank, make sure the tank isn't full of water too. You can pre-mix the fuel to be sure there's enough lubrication, about 40:1 should do.

Take it for a 1/2 hour ride to get the remaining water out, don't run it too hard the first 15 minutes or so, part throttle on plane.
 
Ok yes on oil tank although I hear their oil system is not like our doos so do you think it ok to run it with the tank hooked up and still premix?
The manual says yamaha oil only because of cat.
I want to run it more but I need a hose flush kit!
Do you think I'm ok to let it sit until I get flush kit, it's not registered so I can't just stick it in water


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Put the trailer in the water with ski on it and run it that way....so you are still legal if you're worried about that. It's not the best way to burn off the moisture but better than running it on the hose.
Most Yami take a special connector hose to connect the garden hose to it. $15-$20 i think.
 
Ok yes on oil tank although I hear their oil system is not like our doos so do you think it ok to run it with the tank hooked up and still premix?
The manual says yamaha oil only because of cat.
I want to run it more but I need a hose flush kit!
Do you think I'm ok to let it sit until I get flush kit, it's not registered so I can't just stick


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So you think drive it down and run it on the trailer, not a bad idea actually
I'm am so excited, I mean I'm not out of the woods but I'm looking good here!!!!! I was looking at 1500 for a short block

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Yes, you can add oil to the fuel tank and I would, maybe start with 50:1, the only danger is too much oil will foul plugs, so 1/2 tank of fuel+oil and add more fuel for dilution if the plugs are fouling on you. You want to see some oil smoke at low speeds.

Also, make sure all three are firing, a dead cylinder (due to plugged/dry carb/no fuel) is a cylinder that's not getting lubrication. Feel the cylinder head/plug/exhaust for heat, if one is cold it's maybe not firing.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Yes, you can add oil to the fuel tank and I would, maybe start with 50:1, the only danger is too much oil will foul plugs, so 1/2 tank of fuel+oil and add more fuel for dilution if the plugs are fouling on you. You want to see some oil smoke at low speeds.

Also, make sure all three are firing, a dead cylinder (due to plugged/dry carb/no fuel) is a cylinder that's not getting lubrication. Feel the cylinder head/plug/exhaust for heat, if one is cold it's maybe not firing.
Click to expand...

Oh!! Ok that's great advice as #3 cylinder on these is a problem


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I'd run it un registered, just don't be a Jack wagon.

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