Oil loss seadoo GTX limited

[b.mcdonald]

I have a 2005 SeaDoo GTX Limited SCIC with 240 hours. I've had it out a couple times this year with no issues. I took it out last week, was out for 15 minutes at most and it shut it self off and flashed "oil" on the screen. I was pulled back to the launch, loaded it up and checked the oil just to find the dipstick bone dry (I did check it before going out and it was full). After talking to my local dealer, they mentioned rebuilding the supercharger (as we bought it used and are unsure how many hours were on the supercharger itself). We rebuilt the supercharger, ran it on the hose for not even a minute and the oil was almost off the dipstick again, filled it again and ran it for a minute or two the second time and it didn't go down, so I'm assuming it was just filling the system the first time. However, every time we ran it on the hose, there was oil in the water coming out of it. We shut the hose off then the ski, oil obviously stopped coming out. We shot the hose into the impeller area on the back of the ski and a bunch of oil ran out of it as we were shooting water into it. We pulled the plugs, they are a very light tan, so its not burning it and there is no water in the oil. Where could this oil be coming from?

 

[nfdmedic]

If the SC wasn't installed correctly (There are two O rings where it slides into the block) oil can leak around the magneto housing where the SC enters the engine. But I would think that wouldn't leak that fast. Is there oil in the hose going from the SC to the intake? Is there oil in the coolant? Does the leaking oil look milky or light chocolate brown? Other places I have seen them leak is either the oil cooler line, or the O rings where the oil cooler attaches to the block. check all the plugs in the block around the filter. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the magneto housing that may have worked its ways loose. Also a drain plug on the front of the engine at the bottom of the oil/ water separator. If it leaks that fast I would be scared somehow the block is cracked or has become separated (The block has an upper and lower half) . If you can't find the leak quick it would be best to pull the engine to find it before a catastrophic failure.

 

[b.mcdonald]

If the SC wasn't installed correctly (There are two O rings where it slides into the block) oil can leak around the magneto housing where the SC enters the engine. But I would think that wouldn't leak that fast. Is there oil in the hose going from the SC to the intake? Is there oil in the coolant? Does the leaking oil look milky or light chocolate brown? Other places I have seen them leak is either the oil cooler line, or the O rings where the oil cooler attaches to the block. check all the plugs in the block around the filter. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the magneto housing that may have worked its ways loose. Also a drain plug on the front of the engine at the bottom of the oil/ water separator. If it leaks that fast I would be scared somehow the block is cracked or has become separated (The block has an upper and lower half) . If you can't find the leak quick it would be best to pull the engine to find it before a catastrophic failure.

There is no oil inside the hull, only a little from a spilled oil change, but not enough for all this oil loss. All the things you mentioned, wouldn't it cause oil to leak into the hull rather than just coming out in the water? Like I said, the oil is actually coming out of the water from the garden hose when running it.

 

[Digdog]

It could be something in the oil separator is not working and/or you broke an oil or compression ring and getting lots of blow by causing the oil to vent out. Do a compression test to at least eliminate/include the cylinders/pistons being the problem.

 

[b.mcdonald]

It could be something in the oil separator is not working and/or you broke an oil or compression ring and getting lots of blow by causing the oil to vent out. Do a compression test to at least eliminate/include the cylinders/pistons being the problem.

My compression test readings on a COLD motor are:

1st cylinder is 100
2nd is 90
3rd is 110

 

[Digdog]

Well #2 is not looking good , what do the plugs look like from each cylinder ? Is any one of them oily or fouled? Are they rusty? Take the air inlet hose off of the intake manifold and see if it has lots of oil inside. I'm not sure how your oil separator works on your engine, but when mine was not working properly my engine blew out a quart in 30 minutes. Maybe ask the dealer on that one, or maybe someone here knows your style of separator and can chime in.

 

[b.mcdonald]

Well #2 is not looking good , what do the plugs look like from each cylinder ? Is any one of them oily or fouled? Are they rusty? Take the air inlet hose off of the intake manifold and see if it has lots of oil inside. I'm not sure how your oil separator works on your engine, but when mine was not working properly my engine blew out a quart in 30 minutes. Maybe ask the dealer on that one, or maybe someone here knows your style of separator and can chime in.

Cylinder 1 plug was covered in oil, but it wasn't burnt by any means, oil wiped right off. The oil was on the top part of the spark plug, where the hex is and some on the threads, but the bottom of the spark plug, where the electrode is is a light tan with no oil. I figured that would have been a leaking tube, so I replaced that. All other plugs look great with a light tan color to them. No rust at all. I will be sure to look at that tube tomorrow, just so I know in advance, if it is full of oil, what does this mean? I've had a couple people mention the oil separator, but im not sure how to diagnose the issue with it. If I may ask, When yours went bad, did it come out of the exhaust? or did it just leak into the hull? Once I check the tube tomorrow, ill let you know what I find. Also, im not sure it makes a difference, but this pressure test was done on a very cold engine. It got down to about 45 degrees the night before, so it was very cold.

 

[Digdog]

When mine was bad there was oil in all the intake system, the V ring is really easy to get out, but be careful as it sits against a steel washer in the camshaft gear cover and you don't want that to fall out into the engine. V ring is bad it burns the oil and not in the hull at all. Tube leaking oil can cause a misfire causing oil burn, but if the electrode is tan and dry then not.

 

[b.mcdonald]

When mine was bad there was oil in all the intake system, the V ring is really easy to get out, but be careful as it sits against a steel washer in the camshaft gear cover and you don't want that to fall out into the engine. V ring is bad it burns the oil and not in the hull at all. Tube leaking oil can cause a misfire causing oil burn, but if the electrode is tan and dry then not.

I can only find 2 hoses. One is the hose that comes off the supercharger and is connected to the intake manifold. The other is a 1 inch hose that comes from a solenoid on top of the oil separator to the plastic air intake line that runs along the engine to the intake side of the supercharger. I did find some oil residue in that one inch line.

 

[Digdog]

That is not a solenoid, its the oil separator.

 

[b.mcdonald]

That is not a solenoid, its the oil separator.

Okay, my apologies. There is some oil residue in that tube. Doras that mean the oil separator is probably bad? Or is there something else you think I should look for? I just wanna verify before putting more money into this, thank you very much for your help so far.

 

[Digdog]

There is always some residue in the tube , without seeing it it's hard to describe what is too much but if it's dripping or running out then yes too much. I would try changing the V ring, it's cheap to try. Take it out and see if it's hard or cracked, two bolts and it's out.

 

[ski-d00]

There is no v-ring on a 2005. The old style electronic solenoid for the TOPS system was used from 2002 throuigh 2005. In 2006, which had a slew of changes and some of them mid year conversions, they went to the mechanical TOPS valve system that Digdog is referring to.

 

[Digdog]

There is no v-ring on a 2005. The old style electronic solenoid for the TOPS system was used from 2002 throuigh 2005. In 2006, which had a slew of changes and some of them mid year conversions, they went to the mechanical TOPS valve system that Digdog is referring to.

My apologies , yes no V ring but there is still an oil separator that needs to be looked at, I mentioned it before in this post but I lost my focus )))) If someone could explain how it works in his model that would be great.