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Oil coming out of exhaust

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ILuvNkdChx

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I recently aquired a 1997 speedster that had been sitting for 2 years. After cleaning the fuel lines, fuel filters, and inspecting the carbs it reluctantly started up with a little bit of starter fluid. I have got it to the point where both engines start up like they are supposed to, but on my drivers side engine I have an oil discharge coming out of the exhaust port. I have read a couple others threads suggesting to let it run til the smoke clears up, but this just does not happen. After 10 minutes of running the smoke was just as abundant as when I first started her up. After 10 minutes of running, I pulled and inspected the plugs, and they were fine. After running it for those 10 minutes it lost a GOOD amount of oil. Close to an 1/8 of a quart, but the engine seems to be running fine. I'm stumped and don't know what to check next. ANY help would be appreciated, thanks.
 
How is the compression test on that engine ?
Have you had it in the water ?
I am betting you have 1 scored cylinder and low compression
 
I hope you running the seadoo in the water or on the hose it will have a over heating problem to the jet drive over time. Seadoo recomends you not run it more than 5 minutes on the hose. First thing I would do it check the compression.

Here is a run down on the compression test for starters;
You'll need a compression tester. Go to any auto parts store and buy or rent one. I think they sell for like $25.00 USD. The compression gage, will screw in the cylinder head in place of the spark plugs. To test compression, remove both spark plugs. Place spark plug caps on the plug cap studs near the cylinder head to ground the empty caps. This completes the circuit of the ignition electrical system and prevents any electrical problems from the caps being un grounded. Using the correct adapter for the threaded end of the tester,( same length of the spark plug threads length)screw in the tester in one plug hole. Hold the throttle wide open. Push the start button. Watch the compression gauge, when it peaks out at the most compression, let go the start button. Read the psi number. I would do it 3 times to be sure it is accurate. Check both cylinders the same way. The ideal compression is 150 psi per cylinder. If it is less, it's not a problem as long as they are close to being the same. If the psi is less than 90 it might need be time for a tear down and a rebuild. If the psi in 1 cylinder is say 140 psi and the other is 80 psi you need to tear down and repair. This difference is a lot then there is a problem. I hope this helps you.

Karl
 
Not a problem...I posted a couple times before so I look for the details to solve problems. This forum is all about helping each other out.
:) :cheers:
Karl
 
if compressions check out ok

possile cause could be
Stuck cable from the carbs to oil pump on rear of engine
check to see if oil pumps cams are against the stops with throttles closed

on the carbs there are 3 cables
top rear one is choke
below it is throttle
on the rear end is a cable that goes under carbs and round the rear of the engine in the middle of which low down is the oil pump which is a variable injection oil pump ie more rpm = more oil to engine

ie more your throttle is pushed then at the other end of carbs no 3 cable moves also and pulls on a spring loaded cam on the end of the oil pump thus allowing more oil into engine
 
Just got done with the compression test. The good side (passenger side) was 140 / 140. And the engine with oil coming out was 130 / 135. I am currently searching for the 3rd cable, mentioned in the above post, does anybody have a picture or other reference to where it is located? Also I have not had it in the water yet, but I have been running it on the hose in the meantime. Thanks guys!!!
 
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that 3rd cable, islocated under the carb. When you mentioned about losing 1/8 of oil,, suspect'n your oil seal around the RV assy might be bad, and dont think it'll show up in a compression test, but will on a crnkcase pressure test.

If your boat has the 717/720 motors, I have a brand new seal, dump to ya w/ ship'n for 10 buks?
 
$10 sounds great. Do you have paypal? How long of a job would I be looking at to replace it? Keep in mind I am a novice to marine engines.
 
to replace it, not bad, BUT, being a novice, could be somewhat overwhelming. You'll need to remove the motor, and pretty much, split the case. Sounds out there, but take ur time, label bolts(use cardboard and pop holes in), aint that bad. Need to remove the cylinders, again, not bad but could be itimidating. If you think you can, i'll mail it out, send me check..:cheers:
 
I have run the engine 3 more times at 5 minute intervals, and it appears there is a significant difference in the amount of oil coming out. MUCH MUCH less is coming out, however, the oil is now a foamy light green color, as opposed to the original dark green, almost black. Is it possible that the seal is partially breached and allowed the oil to pool in the engine while sitting for 2 years, and now just needs to be worked out?
 
I'd run it for a bit to see if it clears out. It it gets so bad that it kills mosquitoes, then I'd venture to replace the seals.

Karl
 
ILuvNkdChx said:
the oil is now a foamy light green color, as opposed to the original dark green, almost black.
Click to expand...

Do you know what kind of oil was in there? Isn't the proper synth stuff brown?
I know the amsoil I use is brown (cheaper for me than the seadoo stuff), and the 2-cycle stuff I put in the chainsaw is grean, but that crud won't get anywhere near my boat.
 
I have called the previous owner and he assures me that he ONLY used the seadoo synthetic, but other than his word I have no way of knowing. Anybody else who uses the seadoo oil know if it is dark green?
 
Well to me it sounds like the oil injector is sticking dumping in too much oil...
seadoo-owner went over that one further up the thread i think.
 
Somewhat sure, the dark green oil, is(Seadoo) there make of yearlier yrs' oil. Cant be sure though, its mineral or synthetic.
 
The easy way to check to know if its mineral or synthetic oil is taste it...if it tastes like old dinosaur butt, it's mineral if it tastes like plastic it's synthetic... :rofl::ack: If you don't want to taste it then go with the color choice.

Karl
 
kustomkarl said:
The easy way to check to know if its mineral or synthetic oil is taste it...if it tastes like old dinosaur butt, it's mineral if it tastes like plastic it's synthetic... :rofl::ack: If you don't want to taste it then go with the color choice.

Karl
Click to expand...

Hey chief, we knew you were old, but NOT that old....knawing on dinosaur butt...lol:rofl:.........:cheers:
 
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